How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L
Step-by-step DIY oil change with tools, 5W-20 spec, drain plug torque (20 ft-lbs), and leak checks for 2008, 2009
How to Change Engine Oil & Oil Filter on a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L
Step-by-step DIY oil change with tools, 5W-20 spec, drain plug torque (20 ft-lbs), and leak checks for 2008, 2009
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change
Changing the oil and filter keeps your A4.7 running clean and prevents engine wear. You’ll drain old oil from the oil pan, replace the spin-on filter, then refill with the correct oil and verify the level.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.75-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and set the parking brake.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; oil can burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands before going underneath (never rely on a jack alone).
- ⚠️ Keep oil off the serpentine belt and exhaust parts.
- ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
- Funnel
- Shop rags
- 13mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–80 ft-lbs)
- Oil filter wrench (strap type or cap type)
- Trim clip tool
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (5W-20, API certified, Chrysler MS-6395) - Qty: 6 quarts
- Engine oil filter (spin-on) - Qty: 1
- Oil drain plug gasket (if equipped/separate) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Warm the engine 3–5 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
- Open the hood and loosen the oil filler cap to help the crankcase vent while draining.
- If your A4.7 has a front splash shield, be ready to remove a few clips/screws for access.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and support the front of the vehicle
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently rock it to confirm it’s stable.
Step 2: Remove the splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip tool to pop out push clips.
- Use a 3/8" drive ratchet with the correct fastener socket (commonly 13mm socket where used) to remove any bolts.
- Move the shield aside.
Step 3: Drain the old engine oil
- Put the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
- Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
- Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
- Wipe the drain plug and sealing surface with shop rags.
Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug
- Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10–80 ft-lbs) with a 13mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the old oil filter
- Move the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil filter area (more oil will spill).
- Use an oil filter wrench (strap type or cap type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
- Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the old filter (it can stick to the engine).
Step 6: Install the new oil filter
- Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil using a gloved finger (nitrile gloves).
- Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand.
- Do not use the oil filter wrench to tighten unless you absolutely can’t by hand. Overtightening makes it hard to remove later.
Step 7: Refill with new oil
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
- Pour in 5.5 quarts of engine oil (5W-20, Chrysler MS-6395) first.
- Reinstall the oil filler cap.
Step 8: Start the engine and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle 30–60 seconds.
- Shut it off and look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
- Wait 5 minutes for oil to settle back into the pan.
Step 9: Set the oil level correctly
- Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert fully, then pull again to read.
- Add oil in small amounts using the funnel until it reaches the safe/full range (typically ends up around 6 quarts total with filter).
- Do not overfill.
✅ After Repair
- Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
- Reset the oil-change reminder (if displayed): turn key to ON (not start) → fully press the accelerator pedal 3 times within 10 seconds → turn key OFF.
- Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center/parts store that accepts waste oil.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$75 (parts only)
You Save: $55-$85 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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