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2013 Subaru Forester
2011 - 2013 Subaru Forester
X Flat 4 2.5L Sport Utility
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Guides
  • Subaru Forester
  • 2013
  • How to Change Engine Oil and Filter on a 2011-2015 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Trim: X | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L | Body: Sport Utility)
2.5L Subaru Forester Oil Change DIY (It’s EASY!) | Step-by-Step Guide

2.5L Subaru Forester Oil Change DIY (It’s EASY!) | Step-by-Step Guide

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Tools & Fluids

17mm
17mm
Socket
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
Oil Filter
Oil Filter
Wrench
Drain
Drain
Pan
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How to Change Engine Oil and Filter on a 2011-2015 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Trim: X | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L | Body: Sport Utility)

Step-by-step DIY oil change guide with 0W-20 oil capacity, tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Change Engine Oil and Filter on a 2011-2015 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Trim: X | Engine: Flat 4 2.5L | Body: Sport Utility)

Step-by-step DIY oil change guide with 0W-20 oil capacity, tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Forester - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

This repair drains the old engine oil, replaces the oil filter, and refills your Forester with fresh oil. Clean oil protects the 2.5L flat-four engine from wear, heat, and sludge buildup.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 45-75 minutes


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground so the oil drains correctly and the vehicle stays stable.
  • 🧤 Engine oil can be hot enough to burn skin. Let the engine cool until it is warm, not hot.
  • 🚗 Never work under your Forester supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this oil change.
  • 🌍 Used oil is hazardous waste. Collect it in a sealed container and recycle it properly.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 17mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 3/8-inch torque wrench
  • Oil filter wrench 65mm 14-flute
  • Oil drain pan 8-quart minimum
  • Funnel
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil 0W-20 full synthetic - Qty: 5.1 quarts
  • Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Engine oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Forester on level ground and set the parking brake firmly.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
  • 🌡️ Run the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
  • 🛠️ A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured force so you do not over-tighten them.
  • 🧰 A crush washer is a soft sealing washer that should be replaced each time the drain plug is removed.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open the Hood and Remove the Oil Filler Cap

  • Use your hand to open the hood and secure it with the hood prop rod.
  • Use your hand to remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine.
  • Use shop towels to wipe around the oil filler opening if it is dirty.
  • This helps oil drain smoothly.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Front of the Vehicle

  • Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front center jacking point to raise the front of your Forester.
  • Use jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Position the Drain Pan

  • Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
  • Use an oil drain pan 8-quart minimum and place it under the engine oil drain plug.
  • The drain plug is on the bottom of the engine oil pan.

Step 4: Remove the Engine Oil Drain Plug

  • Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the oil drain plug.
  • Finish removing the drain plug by hand while keeping pressure inward until the threads release.
  • Let the oil drain fully into the drain pan until it slows to occasional drips.
  • Use shop towels to clean the drain plug.
  • Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug by hand.

Step 5: Reinstall the Drain Plug with a New Washer

  • Install the new engine oil drain plug crush washer onto the drain plug by hand.
  • Thread the drain plug into the oil pan by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 17mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the drain plug.
  • Torque to 41 Nm (30 ft-lbs)
  • Stop when the wrench clicks.

Step 6: Remove the Old Oil Filter

  • Move the oil drain pan under the oil filter area.
  • Use an oil filter wrench 65mm 14-flute and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen the oil filter.
  • Unscrew the oil filter by hand once it is loose.
  • Keep the open end of the filter facing upward as much as possible to reduce spills.
  • Use shop towels to wipe the oil filter mounting surface clean.
  • Check that the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter.

Step 7: Install the New Oil Filter

  • Dip a gloved finger into clean engine oil and lightly coat the rubber gasket on the new oil filter.
  • Thread the new oil filter on by hand until the gasket touches the mounting surface.
  • Use the oil filter wrench 65mm 14-flute and 3/8-inch torque wrench if needed.
  • Torque to 14 Nm (10 ft-lbs)
  • If you do not have room to torque it, tighten by hand about 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts.
  • Do not crush the filter gasket.

Step 8: Refill the Engine Oil

  • Use a funnel in the oil filler opening.
  • Pour in 4.8 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil first.
  • Wait 1 minute, then use the dipstick to check the oil level.
  • Add oil slowly until the level is near the full mark.
  • Total capacity with filter is approximately 5.1 quarts.
  • Use your hand to reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 9: Start the Engine and Check for Leaks

  • Use your hand to make sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set.
  • Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
  • Use a flashlight if needed and look under the engine for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
  • Shut the engine off.
  • Wait 5 minutes so the oil can drain back into the oil pan.

Step 10: Final Oil Level Check

  • Use shop towels to wipe the dipstick clean.
  • Insert the dipstick fully, then remove it again to read the level.
  • Add small amounts of 0W-20 oil with the funnel if the level is below full.
  • Do not overfill above the full mark.

Step 11: Lower the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands by hand.
  • Use the floor jack to lower your Forester slowly to the ground.
  • Remove the wheel chocks by hand.

Step 12: Reset the Maintenance Reminder

  • Use the dashboard controls to turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine.
  • Use the trip/reset button to cycle to the maintenance or reminder screen if equipped.
  • Use the trip/reset button to reset the oil change reminder if your Forester has one.
  • If no oil reminder is shown, record the mileage and date manually.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Drive your Forester for 5-10 minutes, then park on level ground and check for leaks again.
  • 🛢️ Recheck the dipstick after the test drive and top off with 0W-20 oil if needed.
  • ♻️ Pour used oil into a sealed container and recycle it with the old oil filter at an approved recycling location.
  • 📝 Record the oil type, mileage, and date for your maintenance history.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $80-$140 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$65 (parts only)

You Save: $45-$75 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.4-0.7 hours.


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