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2017 Toyota Corolla
2017 Toyota Corolla
XSE - Inline 4 1.8L
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2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8 - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement - February 9th, 2025 - Work Week

2017 Toyota Corolla 1.8 - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement - February 9th, 2025 - Work Week

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
1/2
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Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Wheel Hub & Bearing Assemblies on a 2017 Toyota Corolla

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

How to Replace Wheel Hub & Bearing Assemblies on a 2017 Toyota Corolla

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Corolla - Wheel Bearing Replacement

You’ll be replacing the wheel hub & bearing assemblies. On your Corolla, the bearings are not serviced separately; you swap the whole hub unit. This restores smooth, quiet wheel rotation and removes humming or growling noises.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours per axle


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🦺 Always support the car with jack stands; never work under a car supported only by a jack.
  • 🧯 Chock (block) the wheels that stay on the ground so the car cannot roll.
  • 🔥 Brake parts and the exhaust can be very hot after driving; let the car cool first.
  • 🔌 You do not need to disconnect the battery for front wheel bearings, but avoid pulling or twisting ABS sensor wires.
  • ⚡ If your ABS warning light is on before the repair, have codes checked; the hub includes the ABS tone ring.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, Qty: 2–4)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Breaker bar 1/2" drive
  • Torque wrench 1/2" drive (up to 200 ft-lbs)
  • Torque wrench 3/8" drive (up to 80 ft-lbs)
  • Socket set metric 3/8" and 1/2" drive
  • 21mm socket
  • 17mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 22mm socket
  • 30mm axle nut socket (6-point)
  • Ratchet 3/8" drive
  • Ratchet 1/2" drive
  • Extensions 3/8" and 1/2" drive
  • Combination wrench set metric
  • Flathead screwdriver medium
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Pry bar medium
  • Hammer
  • Rubber mallet
  • Punch or drift (for unstaking axle nut)
  • Wire brush small
  • Penetrating oil spray
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Bungee cord or wire hanger
  • Allen/hex key set metric
  • Torx bit set (for any ABS sensor bolts)
  • Impact wrench (air or electric, specialty)
  • Impact screwdriver (specialty)
  • Scraper or gasket scraper
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Shop rags
  • Anti-seize compound

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front wheel hub & bearing assembly (left) - Qty: 1
  • Front wheel hub & bearing assembly (right) - Qty: 1
  • Front axle nut (new) - Qty: 2
  • Rear wheel hub & bearing assembly (left) - Qty: 1
  • Rear wheel hub & bearing assembly (right) - Qty: 1
  • Rear axle nut (if equipped, new) - Qty: 2
  • Replacement hub mounting bolts - Qty: 8 (front) + 8 (rear) if replacing
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube
  • Penetrating oil - Qty: 1 can

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park the Corolla on level ground, engage the parking brake, and place the transmission in P.
  • Loosen (but do not remove) the wheel lug nuts with a 21mm socket before lifting the car.
  • Set wheel chocks behind the tires that stay on the ground.
  • Plan to replace wheel bearings in pairs on the same axle (both fronts or both rears) for even wear.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and Support the Corolla

  • Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to crack all lug nuts loose about one turn.
  • Position the floor jack under the front center jacking point and raise the front of the car.
  • Place jack stands under the pinch welds or frame points on both sides and gently lower the car onto them.
  • Remove the front wheels completely with the 21mm socket.

Step 2: Remove Front Brake Caliper and Rotor

  • Turn the steering wheel to give better access to the side you’re working on.
  • Use a 14mm or 17mm socket (varies by hardware) and ratchet to remove the caliper slide bolts.
  • Lift the caliper off the rotor and hang it from the strut spring with a bungee cord so the hose is not stretched.
  • Use a 17mm or 19mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts from the knuckle. Torque on reassembly: 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).
  • Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
  • If the rotor is stuck, use a rubber mallet to tap around the hat area until it loosens, then remove it.

Step 3: Unstake and Remove the Axle Nut

  • The axle nut is staked (crimped) into a groove on the axle to keep it from loosening.
  • Use a punch and hammer to carefully bend out the staked area so the nut can turn.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the nut and axle threads.
  • Use a 30mm axle nut socket and breaker bar (or impact wrench) to remove the axle nut completely.

Step 4: Disconnect ABS Sensor (If Needed)

  • Follow the ABS sensor wire from the hub to its connector on the knuckle or strut.
  • Use a flathead screwdriver to gently release plastic clips holding the wire.
  • If there is a retaining bolt, remove it with the correct socket or Torx bit.
  • Disconnect the electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling it apart.

Step 5: Remove Hub & Bearing Assembly (Front)

  • Turn the steering to fully expose the back of the steering knuckle.
  • Use a 17mm or 19mm socket, extension, and ratchet to remove the four hub mounting bolts from the rear of the knuckle. Torque on reassembly: 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
  • Spray penetrating oil around the hub where it meets the knuckle.
  • Tap the back of the hub flange with a hammer or use a rubber mallet on the front to break it free. Work evenly around the hub.
  • Pull the old hub and bearing assembly straight off the axle and out of the knuckle.

Step 6: Clean the Knuckle Mating Surface

  • Use a wire brush to clean rust and debris from the hub mounting surface on the knuckle.
  • Wipe with a rag and a bit of brake cleaner until the surface is clean and smooth.
  • Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the mating surface to help future removal. Do not get any on brake surfaces.

Step 7: Install New Front Hub & Bearing Assembly

  • Align the new hub with the axle splines and the bolt holes in the knuckle.
  • Slide the hub fully into place by hand.
  • Install the four hub mounting bolts by hand, then tighten them evenly with a 17mm or 19mm socket and ratchet.
  • Use the torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs) in a crisscross pattern.
  • Reconnect the ABS sensor bolt, clips, and electrical connector using the appropriate socket or Torx bit.

Step 8: Install New Axle Nut and Reassemble Brakes

  • Thread the new axle nut on by hand, then snug it with the 30mm socket and ratchet.
  • Reinstall the brake rotor. Clean its surfaces with brake cleaner if necessary.
  • Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm or 19mm socket and tighten bolts to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs) with a torque wrench.
  • Reinstall the brake caliper using the appropriate socket for the slide pins. Torque caliper slide bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Pre-Torque Axle Nut

  • Have a helper hold the brake pedal, or temporarily install the wheel and lower the car enough so the tire just touches the ground.
  • Use the torque wrench and 30mm socket to tighten the axle nut to 216 Nm (159 ft-lbs).
  • Use the punch and hammer to stake (indent) the edge of the axle nut into the axle groove to lock it.

Step 10: Reinstall Wheels and Lower Vehicle

  • Install the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using the 21mm socket.
  • Raise the car slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the car to the ground.
  • Use a torque wrench and 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Rear Hub & Bearing Overview (If You’re Doing Rears Too)

  • The rear hubs on your Corolla XSE are also bolt-on units behind the rear brake rotors.
  • The process is similar: remove wheel, remove caliper and rotor, unbolt hub from rear of the backing plate/knuckle, clean the surface, and install the new hub.
  • Typical rear hub bolt torque: 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs); rear wheel lug nuts: 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
  • If there is a rear axle nut, torque it to 216 Nm (159 ft-lbs) and stake it the same way as the front.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and pump the brake pedal a few times to seat the caliper pistons.
  • Check that the ABS and brake warning lights go off normally.
  • On a short test drive, listen for any grinding, clicking, or humming; it should be quieter than before.
  • After the test drive, recheck wheel lug nut torque with the torque wrench.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600–$900 for front or rear pair (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $200–$350 per axle (parts only)

You Save: $400–$550 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2–3 hours per axle.


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