🔧 Tucson - Wheel Bearing Replacement

Assumption: This guide covers the most common DIY-friendly wheel bearing job on your Tucson: replacing a noisy bolt-on wheel hub/bearing assembly. If the front bearing is press-in style on your specific corner, the steering knuckle must be removed and the bearing pressed out with a hydraulic press, which is best handled by a shop.

A bad wheel bearing usually makes a growling or humming noise that changes with vehicle speed. The repair involves safely lifting your Tucson, removing the wheel and brake parts, then replacing the hub/bearing assembly so the wheel spins smoothly again.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per wheel

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Tucson supported only by a jack; always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves because brake dust, rust, and sharp edges are common.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the brake caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Support the brake caliper with wire or a bungee cord; do not let it hang by the brake hose.
• ⚠️ If replacing a front hub/bearing, the axle nut is very tight and should be replaced after removal.
• ⚠️ The ABS wheel speed sensor is delicate; avoid pulling or striking the sensor wiring.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 21mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 32mm axle nut socket
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Dead blow hammer
• Brass punch
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Slide hammer hub puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Brake cleaner spray

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Wheel hub/bearing assembly - Qty: 1 per wheel
• Axle nut - Qty: 1 per front wheel if removed
• Brake rotor retaining screw - Qty: 1 per wheel if damaged
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on flat, solid ground.
• Place the transmission in Park and set the parking brake.
• Put wheel chocks behind the wheels that will stay on the ground.
• Loosen the lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• A hub puller is a tool that pulls a stuck hub straight off without damaging nearby parts.
• A torque wrench is a tool that tightens bolts to an exact amount, which prevents loose or broken parts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen before lifting for safety.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the correct jacking point near the wheel you are servicing.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the proper support points.
• Lower your Tucson gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the vehicle lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the caliper slide bolts, depending on the installed brake hardware.
• Lift the brake caliper off the rotor.
• Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or strut.
• Do not let the caliper hang from the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• During installation, tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 78-88 Nm (58-65 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the Brake Rotor

• If your rotor has a retaining screw, use a flat-blade screwdriver or correct driver bit if fitted to remove it.
• Pull the brake rotor straight off the hub.
• If it is stuck, tap around the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer.
• Do not hit the braking surface.

Step 7: Disconnect the ABS Sensor Wire if Needed

• Use a 10mm socket to remove any small ABS wire bracket bolts near the hub area.
• Use needle-nose pliers carefully to release plastic wire clips if they block hub removal.
• Move the wire aside gently without pulling on it.

Step 8: Remove the Axle Nut if Servicing a Front Wheel

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver or brass punch to unstake the axle nut if it is crimped into the axle groove.
• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the axle nut.
• Push the axle inward slightly using a brass punch and dead blow hammer.
• Do not hammer directly on the axle threads.

Step 9: Remove the Hub/Bearing Assembly Bolts

• From the back side of the knuckle or trailing arm, use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the hub mounting bolts.
• Keep one bolt threaded in a few turns until the hub is ready to come loose.
• If the bolts are rusty, work slowly and keep the socket straight to avoid rounding the bolt heads.

Step 10: Remove the Old Hub/Bearing Assembly

• Use a hub puller kit (specialty) or slide hammer hub puller (specialty) to pull the hub straight out.
• If it is lightly stuck, tap the hub flange with a dead blow hammer.
• Remove the last loose mounting bolt by hand and take off the hub/bearing assembly.
• Rust can hold it very tightly.

Step 11: Clean the Mounting Surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the hub mounting surface.
• Use brake cleaner spray to wash away loose debris.
• Apply a very thin coat of anti-seize compound to the center bore only.
• Do not get anti-seize on brake parts or wheel studs.

Step 12: Install the New Hub/Bearing Assembly

• Position the new wheel hub/bearing assembly squarely against the mounting surface.
• Start all mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to snug the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
• Tighten the hub mounting bolts to Torque to 90-110 Nm (66-81 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Reinstall the Axle Nut if Servicing a Front Wheel

• Install a new axle nut by hand.
• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs to tighten it.
• Tighten the front axle nut to Torque to 235-275 Nm (173-203 ft-lbs).
• Use a brass punch to stake the nut into the axle groove if the nut is the staked style.

Step 14: Reinstall the ABS Wire Brackets

• Route the ABS wire exactly as it was before.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall any ABS bracket bolts.
• Tighten small ABS bracket bolts to Torque to 7-10 Nm (62-89 in-lbs).

Step 15: Reinstall the Brake Rotor and Caliper Bracket

• Slide the brake rotor back onto the hub.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to reinstall the rotor retaining screw if equipped.
• Install the caliper bracket and use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to tighten the bolts.
• Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 78-88 Nm (58-65 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Reinstall the Brake Caliper

• Remove the bungee cord and place the caliper over the rotor.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to install the caliper slide bolts.
• Tighten the caliper slide bolts to Torque to 22-32 Nm (16-24 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheel

• Put the wheel back onto the hub.
• Start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 18: Lower and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise your Tucson slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tire touches the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before driving so the brake pads seat back against the rotor.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive in a safe area.
• ✅ Listen for grinding, clicking, humming, or scraping noises.
• ✅ Make sure the ABS warning light stays off.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles of driving.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center, the vehicle pulls, or the bearing was pressed into a front knuckle, get an alignment check.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$700 per wheel for a bolt-on hub assembly; $500-$900 per wheel for a press-in front bearing

DIY Cost: $90-$250 per wheel for parts only

You Save: $250-$650 per wheel by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours per wheel.

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