🔧 Altima - Wheel Bearing Replacement

This guide covers replacing the wheel bearing/hub assemblies on your Altima. On this model, the front wheel bearing is pressed into the steering knuckle, while the rear bearing is serviced as a complete bolt-on hub assembly.

Assumption: Because the exact corner was not specified, this includes both front and rear procedures.

Difficulty Level: Advanced for front / Intermediate for rear | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per wheel

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support your Altima with jack stands before removing any wheel.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the car; jack stands hold it safely.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust, rust, and metal chips can injure your eyes and hands.
• ⚠️ Do not press the front bearing through the inner race. This can ruin the new bearing immediately.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling on the front CV axle. A CV axle transfers power to the front wheels and can be damaged if overextended.
• ⚠️ If replacing the rear hub, make sure the ABS wheel speed sensor wiring is not stretched or pinched.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• 21mm socket
• 32mm axle nut socket
• 19mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Combination wrench set 10mm-21mm
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer
• Ball peen hammer
• Punch set
• Snap ring pliers (specialty)
• Hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty)
• Wheel bearing press adapter kit (specialty)
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Slide hammer hub puller (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Anti-seize compound
• Shop rags
• Paint marker
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing - Qty: 1 per front wheel
• Front wheel hub - Qty: 1 per front wheel if damaged or worn
• Front axle nut - Qty: 1 per front wheel
• Front wheel bearing snap ring - Qty: 1 per front wheel
• Rear wheel hub and bearing assembly - Qty: 1 per rear wheel
• Rear hub mounting bolts - Qty: 4 per rear wheel if corroded or stretched
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Altima on level ground, shift to Park, and apply the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the wheels that will stay on the ground.
• 🔩 Loosen the lug nuts slightly before lifting the car. Do not remove them yet.
• 📌 If replacing a front bearing, loosen the front axle nut before lifting the vehicle.
• 🛞 If replacing a rear bearing, release the parking brake before removing the rear brake rotor.
• 📏 Mark strut-to-knuckle bolt positions with a paint marker if removing the front knuckle. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.
• 🧰 A hydraulic shop press is a machine that uses pressure to push the old bearing out and the new bearing in squarely.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel and Axle Nut

• Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the lug nuts one turn.
• For a front bearing, use a flat-blade screwdriver to lift the staked part of the axle nut if it is locked into the axle groove.
• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the front axle nut while the wheel is still on the ground.
• Loosen first. Lift second.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the proper lift point to raise your Altima.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the pinch welds or approved support points.
• Lower the car gently onto the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts and wheel.

Step 3: Remove the Brake Caliper and Rotor

• Use a 14mm socket to remove the brake caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off and support it with a brake caliper hanger. Do not let it hang by the rubber brake hose.
• Use a 19mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• Pull the brake rotor straight off by hand. If stuck, tap the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer.
• During reassembly, tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
• During reassembly, tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 4A: Front Bearing - Remove the Axle Nut and ABS Bracket

• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the axle nut completely.
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove any ABS wire brackets attached to the steering knuckle.
• Use a punch set and ball peen hammer to gently push the CV axle inward through the hub splines.
• If the axle is stuck, use a hub puller kit (specialty). Do not hammer directly on the axle threads.

Step 5A: Front Bearing - Remove the Steering Knuckle

• Use a paint marker to mark the position of the strut bolts against the knuckle.
• Use a 19mm socket and combination wrench set 10mm-21mm to remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the tie rod end nut if the tie rod blocks knuckle removal.
• Use a ball peen hammer to tap the side of the steering arm until the tie rod end pops free.
• Use a 17mm socket to remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt or retaining nut, depending on the installed joint style.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch to carefully separate the lower control arm from the knuckle.
• Slide the knuckle off the CV axle and remove it from the vehicle.
• During reassembly, tighten the strut-to-knuckle bolts to Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
• During reassembly, tighten the tie rod end nut to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• During reassembly, tighten the lower ball joint fastener to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).

Step 6A: Front Bearing - Press Out the Hub and Bearing

• Use a hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) and wheel bearing press adapter kit (specialty) to press the wheel hub out of the bearing.
• Use snap ring pliers (specialty) to remove the bearing snap ring from the knuckle.
• Use a wire brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the snap ring groove and bearing bore.
• Use the hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) to press the old bearing out of the knuckle.
• Support the knuckle evenly.

Step 7A: Front Bearing - Press In the New Bearing

• Use the wheel bearing press adapter kit (specialty) to support the knuckle around the bearing bore.
• Use the hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) to press the new front wheel bearing into the knuckle by the outer race only.
• Use snap ring pliers (specialty) to install the new snap ring fully into the groove.
• Use the hydraulic shop press 12-ton minimum (specialty) to press the hub into the new bearing by supporting the inner race.
• Spin the hub by hand. It should feel smooth with no grinding or wobble.

Step 8A: Front Bearing - Reinstall the Knuckle

• Guide the CV axle through the hub by hand while positioning the knuckle.
• Use a 17mm socket to install the lower ball joint fastener and tighten to Torque to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
• Use a 19mm socket and combination wrench set 10mm-21mm to install the strut-to-knuckle bolts and tighten to Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
• Use a 17mm socket to install the tie rod end nut and tighten to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to reinstall ABS wire brackets.
• Use a 32mm axle nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the new axle nut to Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
• Use a punch set and ball peen hammer to stake the axle nut into the axle groove if the nut design requires it.

Step 4B: Rear Bearing - Remove the Rear Hub Assembly

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor bracket if it blocks hub removal.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the four rear hub mounting bolts from the back side of the knuckle.
• If the hub is rusted in place, use a slide hammer hub puller (specialty) to pull the hub straight out.
• Use a wire brush and brake cleaner spray to clean the mounting surface.
• Clean metal seats better.

Step 5B: Rear Bearing - Install the New Rear Hub Assembly

• Apply a thin film of anti-seize compound to the knuckle hub bore using a shop rag. Keep it off the brakes.
• Slide the new rear wheel hub and bearing assembly into place by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to start the four hub mounting bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive or torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the rear hub mounting bolts to Torque to 88 Nm (65 ft-lbs).
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to reinstall the ABS wire bracket.

Step 9: Reinstall the Brake Rotor and Caliper

• Clean the brake rotor surface with brake cleaner spray and shop rags.
• Install the rotor by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to install the caliper bracket bolts and tighten to Torque to 98 Nm (72 ft-lbs).
• Install the brake caliper over the rotor by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to install the caliper slide pin bolts and tighten to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the Wheel

• Install the wheel by hand.
• Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise the car slightly with the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) and remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Lower your Altima to the ground.
• Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal until it feels firm before driving. This seats the caliper back against the rotor.
• ✅ Start with a slow test drive in a quiet area. Listen for humming, grinding, clicking, or rubbing.
• ✅ If a front knuckle was removed, get a professional wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• ✅ After 25-50 miles, recheck the lug nut torque with a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
• ✅ If the ABS light comes on, inspect the wheel speed sensor wiring and make sure the connector and bracket are secure.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$650 per front wheel / $300-$550 per rear wheel (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70-$180 per front wheel / $90-$220 per rear wheel (parts only)

You Save: $200-$450 per wheel by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours per wheel.

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