🔧 Highlander - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

This job replaces the front wheel bearing/hub assembly on your Highlander. A worn bearing can cause humming, growling, vibration, or looseness at the wheel.

Assumption: This procedure is for a front wheel bearing/hub assembly. Rear bearing replacement is similar, but the rear brake/parking-brake layout differs.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Your Highlander is a hybrid. Do not touch orange high-voltage cables or hybrid components.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the vehicle with jack stands. Never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ The axle nut is very tight. Loosen it only while the wheel is on the ground.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the brake hose. Support it with wire or a bungee cord.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling the axle outward too far. It can damage the inner CV joint.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the ABS wheel speed sensor or sensor wiring.
• ⚠️ Disconnecting the 12V battery is recommended if working near ABS wiring. This does not disable the high-voltage hybrid system.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 30mm axle nut socket
• 10mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive 250 ft-lb capacity
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Needle-nose pliers
• Hammer 2-lb
• Dead blow hammer 3-lb
• Punch set
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Slide hammer hub adapter kit (specialty)
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Penetrating oil spray
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Bungee cord
• Floor jack 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing and hub assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Front axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Brake rotor retaining clips - Qty: as needed
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Highlander on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 If disconnecting the 12V battery, use a 10mm socket on the negative terminal and isolate the cable. Wait 90 seconds before working around electrical connectors.
• 🧰 A hub puller pulls the hub straight out of the knuckle. A knuckle is the heavy metal steering part that holds the wheel bearing.
• 🧰 A slide hammer is a puller with a sliding weight. It helps remove a stuck hub with straight outward force.
• 💡 Spray penetrating oil around the axle nut area and hub mounting area before starting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Axle Nut and Lug Nuts

• Use a flathead screwdriver and hammer to lift the staked part of the axle nut. The staked part is the bent-in lip that locks the nut in place.
• Use a 30mm axle nut socket and breaker bar to loosen the axle nut while the tire is still on the ground.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and breaker bar to loosen the wheel lug nuts one turn.
• Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Highlander at the proper front jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Use the floor jack lightly under the front subframe as backup support.

Step 3: Remove the Wheel

• Use a 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheel and place it flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Brake Caliper

• Use a 14mm socket to remove the two front brake caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the strut spring.
• Never hang it by the hose.

Step 5: Remove the Caliper Bracket

• Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• During reassembly, tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Remove the Brake Rotor

• Use needle-nose pliers to remove any rotor retaining clips if equipped.
• Pull the brake rotor straight off the hub.
• If stuck, use a dead blow hammer to tap around the rotor hat evenly.
• Tap gently and rotate often.

Step 7: Remove the ABS Sensor From the Knuckle

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor retaining bolt.
• Gently twist and pull the sensor out of the knuckle.
• If it does not move easily, leave it installed and protect the wire carefully.
• Broken sensors are common when forced.

Step 8: Remove the Axle Nut

• Use a 30mm axle nut socket and breaker bar to remove the axle nut fully.
• Push the axle inward by hand.
• If stuck, use a punch and hammer on the axle center dimple only.
• Do not damage the axle threads.

Step 9: Free Extra Working Room if Needed

• Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to remove the lower ball joint fasteners if more axle movement is needed.
• Use a ball joint separator only if the joint is stuck.
• Move the steering knuckle outward just enough to slide the axle back from the hub.
• Do not overextend the axle.

Step 10: Remove the Hub/Bearing Mounting Bolts

• From the back side of the steering knuckle, use a 17mm socket to remove the four wheel bearing/hub assembly bolts.
• Spray penetrating oil around the hub where it enters the knuckle.
• Use a wire brush to clean exposed rust around the hub flange.

Step 11: Remove the Old Hub Assembly

• Install the hub puller kit or slide hammer hub adapter kit onto the wheel studs.
• Use the hub puller or slide hammer to pull the hub straight out of the knuckle.
• If it is badly stuck, alternate penetrating oil, light hammer taps, and puller pressure.
• Patience prevents broken parts.

Step 12: Clean the Knuckle Mounting Surface

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the bearing bore and mounting face.
• Use brake cleaner spray to clean the area.
• Apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound to the knuckle bore using a gloved finger.
• Do not get anti-seize on the brake rotor or wheel studs.

Step 13: Install the New Hub Assembly

• Slide the new wheel bearing and hub assembly into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Align the bolt holes carefully.
• Use a 17mm socket to start all four mounting bolts by hand first.
• Tighten the four hub bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
• Tighten the hub mounting bolts to Torque to 96 Nm (71 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Reinstall the Axle

• Guide the axle splines through the new hub by hand.
• Use a 30mm axle nut socket to install a new axle nut finger-tight.
• If the lower ball joint was removed, use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket to reinstall its fasteners.
• Tighten lower ball joint fasteners to Torque to 89 Nm (66 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reinstall the ABS Sensor

• Use brake cleaner spray on a rag to clean the sensor tip gently.
• Slide the ABS sensor back into the knuckle by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket to install the retaining bolt.
• Tighten the ABS sensor bolt to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 16: Reinstall the Brake Rotor and Caliper Bracket

• Use brake cleaner spray to clean both sides of the rotor if it was touched.
• Slide the rotor onto the hub.
• Use a 17mm socket to install the caliper bracket bolts.
• Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Reinstall the Brake Caliper

• Remove the bungee cord while holding the caliper.
• Set the caliper over the brake pads and bracket.
• Use a 14mm socket to install the slide pin bolts.
• Tighten the slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 18: Reinstall the Wheel

• Install the wheel by hand onto the hub.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the tire until it just touches the ground.

Step 19: Torque the Axle Nut and Lug Nuts

• Use a 30mm axle nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the new axle nut to Torque to 294 Nm (217 ft-lbs).
• Use a punch and hammer to stake the axle nut into the axle groove.
• Use a 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Reconnect the 12V battery negative cable if disconnected, using a 10mm socket.
• ✅ Pump the brake pedal until it feels firm before moving the vehicle.
• ✅ Start your Highlander and check for ABS, traction control, or brake warning lights.
• ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for grinding, clicking, or humming.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive.
• ✅ If the ABS light stays on, inspect the wheel speed sensor connector and wiring.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, have the alignment checked.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$750 per front side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 per front side (parts only)

You Save: $330-$470 per side by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours per side.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

🔧 Highlander - A/C Compressor Replacement

Replacing the A/C compressor on your Highlander requires recovering the refrigerant, removing the drive belt, disconnecting the refrigerant lines, swapping the compressor, then evacuating and recharging the system. Because your Highlander uses a hybrid system, the A/C compressor is electrically driven and requires hybrid-safe A/C service practices.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Your Highlander Hybrid uses an electric A/C compressor powered by the high-voltage hybrid system. Do not disconnect or probe orange high-voltage cables.
• ⚠️ Use only hybrid-compatible ND-11 type compressor oil. Conventional PAG oil can damage the electric compressor insulation.
• ⚠️ Refrigerant must be recovered with an approved recovery machine. Venting refrigerant is unsafe and illegal in many regions.
• ⚠️ A/C systems are under high pressure. Do not loosen refrigerant lines until the system has been fully recovered.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Refrigerant can cause frostbite instantly.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable before unplugging the compressor electrical connector.
• ⚠️ If the compressor failed internally and sent metal debris through the system, the condenser and expansion valve should be replaced and the lines flushed where allowed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• Extension 3/8-inch drive 6-inch
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive 10-80 ft-lb capacity
• Line wrench 10mm
• Line wrench 12mm
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Pick tool set
• A/C manifold gauge set R-134a (specialty)
• Refrigerant recovery machine R-134a (specialty)
• Vacuum pump 2-stage A/C (specialty)
• Refrigerant scale digital (specialty)
• Hybrid A/C oil injector R-134a (specialty)
• Scan tool with Toyota hybrid and A/C data (specialty)
• UV leak detection light (specialty)
• Floor jack 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Electric A/C compressor - Qty: 1
• A/C compressor O-ring seal kit - Qty: 1
• Hybrid A/C compressor oil ND-11 type - Qty: as required
• R-134a refrigerant - Qty: factory charge amount by weight
• A/C condenser with receiver/drier - Qty: 1 if compressor failed internally
• A/C expansion valve - Qty: 1 if compressor failed internally
• A/C line sealing caps - Qty: as needed

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Highlander on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the 12V battery negative cable after refrigerant recovery is complete.
• ❄️ Recover the refrigerant using an R-134a recovery machine before opening any A/C line.
• 🧰 An A/C manifold gauge set measures high-side and low-side refrigerant pressure.
• 🧰 A vacuum pump removes air and moisture from the A/C system before recharging.
• 🧰 A refrigerant scale measures the exact refrigerant weight. Your Highlander must be charged by weight, not by pressure guessing.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Recover the Refrigerant

• Use the A/C manifold gauge set R-134a and refrigerant recovery machine R-134a to recover the refrigerant from the system.
• Confirm both high-side and low-side gauges show no system pressure after recovery.
• Do not loosen any A/C fitting until the system is fully recovered.
• Never vent refrigerant.

Step 2: Disconnect the 12V Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery cable clamp.
• Remove the negative cable and position it so it cannot touch the battery post.
• Wait at least 90 seconds before unplugging electrical connectors.

Step 3: Raise the Front of the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Highlander.
• Place jack stands 3-ton minimum under the approved front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly under the front support area as a backup.

Step 4: Remove the Lower Engine Covers

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic push clips from the lower splash shield.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove the splash shield bolts.
• Lower the covers and set them aside.

Step 5: Locate the Electric A/C Compressor

• From underneath, locate the A/C compressor mounted low on the engine side of the engine compartment.
• Identify the refrigerant line connections and the electrical connector before removal.
• Do not touch any orange high-voltage wiring or connectors.

Step 6: Unplug the Compressor Electrical Connector

• Use a flathead screwdriver medium only to gently release the connector lock if needed.
• Pull the compressor connector straight off by the connector body.
• Do not pull on the wires.

Step 7: Disconnect the Refrigerant Lines

• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the refrigerant line retaining bolts at the compressor.
• Use a line wrench 10mm or line wrench 12mm if the fitting style requires it.
• Gently pull the suction and discharge lines away from the compressor.
• Use A/C line sealing caps to cap the open lines immediately.
• Remove old O-rings using a pick tool set.
• Keep dirt out of the lines.

Step 8: Remove the Compressor Mounting Bolts

• Support the compressor by hand before removing the last bolt.
• Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket with a 3/8-inch ratchet and 6-inch extension to remove the compressor mounting bolts.
• Lower the electric A/C compressor out carefully.

Step 9: Compare the New Compressor

• Place the old and new compressors side by side.
• Confirm the mounting ears, refrigerant ports, and electrical connector match.
• Do not rotate or shake the compressor aggressively.

Step 10: Check Compressor Oil Amount

• Read the oil tag or paperwork on the new electric A/C compressor.
• Use only hybrid A/C compressor oil ND-11 type if oil adjustment is required.
• Use a hybrid A/C oil injector R-134a only if adding oil after installation.
• If the old compressor failed internally, replace the condenser with receiver/drier and expansion valve before charging.
• Wrong oil can ruin the compressor.

Step 11: Install the New Compressor

• Lift the electric A/C compressor into place by hand.
• Start all mounting bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 12mm socket or 14mm socket to snug the bolts evenly.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the compressor mounting bolts to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Install New O-Rings and Reconnect Lines

• Remove the caps from the compressor ports and refrigerant lines.
• Lightly coat the new A/C compressor O-rings with hybrid A/C compressor oil ND-11 type using a gloved finger.
• Install the new O-rings onto the refrigerant line fittings.
• Push the lines straight into the compressor ports.
• Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to install the line retaining bolts.
• Tighten refrigerant line retaining bolts to Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 13: Reconnect the Compressor Electrical Connector

• Push the electrical connector straight onto the compressor until it clicks.
• Use a flathead screwdriver medium only if the lock needs gentle help seating.
• Confirm the connector is fully latched.

Step 14: Reinstall the Lower Engine Covers

• Raise the splash shields into position.
• Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the lower cover bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall the plastic push clips.
• Tighten the lower cover bolts snugly to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack 3-ton minimum to lift slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Highlander fully to the ground.

Step 16: Reconnect the 12V Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the terminal clamp until secure.

Step 17: Evacuate the A/C System

• Connect the A/C manifold gauge set R-134a to the high-side and low-side service ports.
• Connect the vacuum pump 2-stage A/C to the manifold gauge set.
• Run the vacuum pump for at least 30-45 minutes.
• Close the manifold valves and confirm the system holds vacuum for 10-15 minutes.
• If vacuum drops, use a UV leak detection light and inspect all disturbed fittings.

Step 18: Recharge the A/C System

• Place the R-134a refrigerant container on the refrigerant scale digital.
• Charge the system with the factory-specified refrigerant weight shown on the under-hood A/C label.
• Use the A/C manifold gauge set R-134a to feed refrigerant through the low side as directed by the equipment instructions.
• Do not overcharge the system.
• Charge by weight only.

Step 19: Command and Verify Compressor Operation

• Use a scan tool with Toyota hybrid and A/C data to check for A/C trouble codes.
• Start your Highlander in READY mode.
• Set climate control to LO temperature, A/C ON, fan medium-high, recirculation ON.
• Use the scan tool to monitor compressor command, high-side pressure, and evaporator temperature.
• Confirm the compressor operates smoothly and the vents begin blowing cold air.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check all A/C line connections for leaks using a UV leak detection light if dye is present.
• ✅ Confirm vent temperature is cold at idle and during a short road test.
• ✅ Scan for A/C and hybrid control codes after the test.
• ✅ If the A/C does not cool, stop testing and recheck charge weight, compressor command, and pressure readings.
• ✅ If the compressor failed from internal damage, do not keep running the new compressor until contamination repairs are complete.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $550-$1,200 (parts only)

You Save: $650-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.