How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2016 Kia Sedona
Step-by-step cooling system hose swap with tools/parts list, coolant refill & air-bleeding tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2016 Kia Sedona
Step-by-step cooling system hose swap with tools/parts list, coolant refill & air-bleeding tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
đź”§ Sedona - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose means safely draining some coolant, removing the old hose and clamps, installing the new hose, then refilling and bleeding air from the cooling system. Hoses fail from age, heat, and swelling, and a bad hose can cause sudden overheating.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: Steps cover both upper and lower radiator hoses on your Sedona.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the van with jack stands if you lift it—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep it off skin/paint and away from kids/pets; clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Use only the correct coolant type; mixing types can cause sludge and overheating.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Pliers (hose clamp pliers) (specialty)
- Tongue-and-groove pliers (10-inch)
- Pick tool set
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3" extension (3/8" drive)
- Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Shop rags
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
- Engine coolant (P-OAT long-life, 50/50 premix or concentrate + distilled water) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
- 🌡️ Let the engine cool completely (ideal: sit 2+ hours) before opening the cooling system.
- ♨️ Set HVAC controls to HEAT (this helps coolant flow through the heater core during bleeding later).
- đź§Ľ Place a drain pan under the radiator area and have shop rags ready.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove engine cover/air intake pieces (if they block access)
- Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8" ratchet to remove any intake snorkel/engine cover fasteners that block the upper hose.
- Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen any worm-gear clamps (screw-type clamps) on intake ducts.
- Take a quick photo before removal.
Step 2: Safely release cooling system pressure
- Place a shop rag over the radiator cap.
- Slowly turn the cap to the first stop to vent pressure, then remove it fully once no hiss remains.
Step 3: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level
- Position the drain pan under the radiator drain.
- If your radiator has a drain cock (small drain valve), open it by hand or with a flathead screwdriver as needed.
- If no drain cock is accessible, you can drain from the lower hose in Step 5 (expect a bigger spill).
- Drain until the radiator level is below the hose you’re replacing, then close the drain cock snugly (do not over-tighten).
Step 4: Remove the upper radiator hose (radiator to engine)
- Use pliers (hose clamp pliers) to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
- If it has a screw clamp, loosen it with a flathead screwdriver.
- Break the hose free: gently twist the hose by hand; if stuck, carefully work the edge with a pick tool set (a pick is a small hook tool used to separate stuck rubber from a fitting).
- Pull the hose off the radiator neck, then off the engine neck.
- Use shop rags to catch remaining coolant drips.
Step 5: Remove the lower radiator hose (radiator to engine)
- If needed for access, lift the front and support it with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Use pliers (hose clamp pliers) to move the clamps back.
- Be ready: removing the lower hose can dump coolant fast—keep the drain pan directly underneath.
- Twist and remove the hose. Use the pick tool set only if necessary, and do not gouge the plastic/aluminum necks.
Step 6: Inspect and prep the hose connections
- Use a flashlight to inspect radiator and engine hose necks for cracks, heavy corrosion, or broken bead lips.
- Wipe the sealing surfaces clean with shop rags.
- Confirm the new hose matches the old one in shape and length before installing.
Step 7: Install the new hose(s) and clamps
- Slide the clamps onto the hose first.
- Push the hose fully onto each neck until it bottoms out past the bead (the raised ridge that helps the clamp seal).
- Position each clamp behind the bead, centered, not crooked.
- For spring clamps: set with pliers (hose clamp pliers).
- For screw clamps: tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug—do not crush the hose.
Step 8: Reinstall any removed intake/cover parts
- Reinstall removed components using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- If any 10mm bolts were removed for brackets, Torque to 8-10 Nm (6-7 ft-lbs) unless a component label/spec says otherwise.
Step 9: Refill coolant and bleed air
- Use a funnel to fill the radiator with P-OAT long-life coolant 50/50 until full.
- Fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off.
- Turn the cabin heat to full hot and fan on low; watch for air bubbles escaping.
- As the level drops, add coolant to keep the radiator full.
- When the radiator fan cycles and heat blows hot, install the cap securely.
- Never rev a cold engine hard.
Step 10: Final leak check
- With the engine idling, use a flashlight to check both hose ends for seepage.
- Shut the engine off and recheck clamp positions once it cools.
âś… After Repair
- đźš— Road test 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge for normal behavior.
- đź§Š After a full cool-down, recheck the reservoir level and top off to MAX using the same coolant.
- 🔎 Inspect for dried coolant residue around clamps over the next 1-2 days (a sign of a small leak).
- 🧼 Properly dispose of old coolant—most parts stores accept it for recycling.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















