🔧 Town & Country - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose means removing the old rubber coolant hose and installing a new one with secure clamps so your cooling system can hold pressure and flow coolant correctly. A cracked, swollen, or leaking hose can cause overheating fast, so it’s a smart fix to do as soon as you notice issues.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: I’m covering both upper and lower radiator hoses (same overall process).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn.
• ⚠️ Support the van with jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep coolant away from kids/pets; it’s toxic and tastes sweet.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; coolant is irritating to skin/eyes.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Pliers for hose clamps
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool (angled) (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet
• Extension set
• Razor scraper
• Shop rags
• Funnel
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Engine coolant (OAT, 50/50 premix, purple) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool fully (at least 2-3 hours). The upper hose should feel cool to the touch.
• Set the HVAC to heat during the refill/bleed later; this helps purge air from the heater core.
• If you need access from below, lift the front with a floor jack and place it on jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve pressure safely

• Place a shop rag over the coolant pressure cap.
• Slowly loosen the cap to the first stop to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully.

Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level

• Position a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
• Open the radiator drain (petcock) using a flat-blade screwdriver (some drains are hand-turn; use gentle force).
• Drain until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing, then close the drain snugly.
• Tip: Draining less makes less mess.

Step 3: Gain access to the hose

• If an intake duct or cover is blocking access, remove it using a 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a ratchet and extension set.
• Move wiring looms aside gently by hand; don’t pull on wires.

Step 4: Release the hose clamps

• Identify your clamp type:
• Use pliers for hose clamps or hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the clamp and slide it back onto the hose.
• Hose clamp pliers lock in place—hands-free.

Step 5: Remove the old hose

• Twist the hose back and forth by hand to break it free from the fitting.
• If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (angled) (specialty) to carefully lift the edge of the hose off the fitting (do not gouge plastic/aluminum).
• Pull the hose off and let it drain into the drain pan.

Step 6: Clean and inspect the hose fittings

• Wipe the radiator neck and engine fitting with shop rags.
• If there’s crusty buildup, lightly clean with a razor scraper (gentle only).
• Inspect for cracks (especially if a fitting is plastic). If cracked, stop and replace that component before reassembling.

Step 7: Install the new hose and position clamps

• Match the new hose shape to the old one (same bends and length).
• Slide the clamps onto the hose first.
• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
• Reposition clamps near the end of the hose, centered over the fitting bead.
• If using worm-gear clamps, tighten with a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket to Torque to 3.5 Nm (31 in-lbs).
• Tip: Don’t overtighten—cuts hoses.

Step 8: Reinstall any removed components

• Reinstall any intake ducting/covers using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Tighten fasteners snugly (do not strip plastic). Use a torque wrench (inch-pound) if you have specs on the part you removed.

Step 9: Refill coolant

• Place a funnel in the fill point and refill with engine coolant (OAT, 50/50 premix, purple).
• If you drained a lot and only have concentrate, mix with distilled water to a 50/50 blend before filling.
• Fill to the correct level in the reservoir.

Step 10: Bleed air from the system

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Set HVAC to MAX heat and medium fan.
• Watch the coolant level and add as needed using the funnel.
• When the engine warms up, the radiator hose should get hot and firm (thermostat opening).
• Shut the engine off, let it cool, then recheck and top off the reservoir.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine fully warm, inspect both hose ends for seepage.
• Take a 10-15 minute drive, then recheck for leaks and recheck coolant level after it cools.
• Confirm the cabin heater blows hot (a cold heater can mean trapped air).
• Dispose of old coolant properly (sealed container; take to a recycling/collection site).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.