How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2013 Toyota Highlander
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools list, parts, coolant refill/bleeding steps, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
How to Replace Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2013 Toyota Highlander
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools list, parts, coolant refill/bleeding steps, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
đź”§ Highlander - Radiator Hose Replacement
On your Highlander, radiator hoses carry coolant between the radiator and the engine. Replacing a leaking, swollen, or cracked hose prevents overheating and coolant loss.
Quick check: There are usually two main radiator hoses: upper (top of radiator to engine) and lower (bottom of radiator to engine/water inlet).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands if you lift it—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant away from kids/pets; it’s toxic and sweet-smelling.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- Ratchet
- Trim clip removal tool
- Slip-joint pliers
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Utility knife
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
- Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (pink) premixed - Qty: 1-2 gallons
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool completely (ideally 2+ hours).
- Set the HVAC to HOT and fan to low after refill to help bleed air later.
- Place a drain pan under the front of the SUV before opening any hose.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm which hose you’re replacing
- Open the hood and locate the hoses: upper hose at the top of the radiator, lower hose at the bottom.
- If you want, tell me: upper or lower (and if it’s leaking at the clamp or the hose is cracked). I can tailor the steps.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if needed)
- Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
- Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the front under cover fasteners using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- More access helps, especially for the lower hose.
Step 3: Relieve pressure safely
- Place shop towels around the radiator cap area using shop towels.
- Slowly loosen the cap only when the engine is cold. No tool needed.
Step 4: Drain enough coolant so it doesn’t pour out
- Position the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator.
- Open the radiator drain cock (petcock) carefully by hand; use work light to see it.
- Drain until the radiator level is below the hose you’re removing, then close the drain cock by hand.
Step 5A: Remove the upper radiator hose (upper hose path)
- Compress and slide the hose clamps back using hose clamp pliers.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off by hand.
- If it’s stuck, carefully break the seal with a pick tool. (A pick tool is a small hooked tool used to separate stuck rubber from fittings.)
- If the hose is rock-hard and won’t come off, carefully slit it with a utility knife and peel it away.
Step 5B: Remove the lower radiator hose (lower hose path)
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamps back from the hose ends.
- Remove the hose from the radiator end first, then the engine end, using slip-joint pliers to help twist if needed.
- Keep the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) directly under the hose—more coolant will spill than the upper hose.
Step 6: Clean the sealing surfaces
- Wipe the radiator neck and engine fitting clean using shop towels.
- Remove any stuck rubber pieces carefully with a pick tool.
Step 7: Install the new hose and clamps
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose before installing the hose, using your hands.
- Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
- Position clamps behind the raised “bead” on the fitting using hose clamp pliers.
- If you’re using screw-type clamps, tighten evenly using the correct socket or driver you have; do not crush the hose.
- Clamps should be snug, not hose-cutting tight.
Step 8: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)
- Reinstall the under cover using a trim clip removal tool (to align clips) and 10mm socket.
Step 9: Refill coolant (Toyota pink)
- Insert a funnel into the radiator fill neck.
- Refill using Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (pink) premixed until full.
- Fill the overflow reservoir to the “FULL” line.
Step 10: Bleed air and verify no leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off; monitor level using a work light.
- Turn the heater to HOT; watch for warm air from vents.
- As the thermostat opens, coolant level may drop—add coolant with the funnel as needed.
- Once bubbles reduce and the level stabilizes, reinstall the radiator cap by hand.
âś… After Repair
- Check for leaks around both hose ends while idling, using a work light.
- Test drive 10–15 minutes, then let it cool and recheck the reservoir level; top off if needed.
- If the temperature gauge rises abnormally, stop and shut off—air may still be trapped.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $50-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $200-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















