🔧 Wheel Bearing / Hub Assembly - Replacement

On your Stinger, the wheel bearing is serviced as a sealed hub and bearing assembly at the wheel. That means you replace the complete unit rather than pressing in a loose bearing. If you are hearing a growl, hum, or feeling play in the wheel, this repair is the fix.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours per side

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a flat surface and support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• The brake system will be opened, so keep fingers clear of the caliper and rotor edges.
• Use caution with the axle nut and suspension fasteners; they are very tight.
• If your Stinger has an electronic parking brake, put it in service mode before rear brake work.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable if you will be unplugging ABS wiring near exposed connectors for a long time.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
• Wheel chocks
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Metric socket set
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• Torque angle gauge (specialty)
• Ratchet
• Long pry bar
• Rubber mallet
• Dead blow hammer
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Impact gun (optional)
• Penetrating oil
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Wheel bearing / hub assembly - Qty: 1 per side
• Axle nut - Qty: 1 per side
• Hub bolts - Qty: 3 per side
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.
• If this is the rear and your car has an electronic parking brake, put it in service mode before removing the caliper.
• Assumption: this guide covers one wheel bearing / hub assembly. Repeat for the other side if needed.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the wheel

• Use a floor jack to raise the corner of the car.
• Support it with jack stands.
• Remove the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and take off the wheel.

Step 2: Remove the brake caliper and rotor

• Use a 17mm socket to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
• Lift the caliper off and hang it with wire or a bungee cord. Do not let it hang by the hose.
• Remove the brake rotor. If it is stuck, tap it gently with a rubber mallet.

Step 3: Remove the axle nut

• Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to remove the axle nut.
• If the axle will not move, thread the nut on flush and tap it gently with a dead blow hammer.
• Do not damage the axle threads.

Step 4: Disconnect the hub wiring

• Unclip the ABS sensor harness from the knuckle using needle-nose pliers or a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Unplug the connector if needed so the harness stays clear.

Step 5: Remove the hub bolts

• From the back side of the knuckle, use a 19mm socket to remove the three hub mounting bolts.
• Spray penetrating oil if they are rusted.
• Hold the hub from spinning if needed.

Step 6: Remove the hub assembly

• Pull the hub assembly straight out of the knuckle.
• If it is seized, use a long pry bar and gentle taps with a dead blow hammer.
• Clean the mounting surface with brake cleaner.

Step 7: Install the new hub assembly

• Position the new wheel bearing / hub assembly in the knuckle.
• Install the hub bolts by hand first.
• Torque the hub bolts to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the axle nut

• Slide the axle fully through the new hub.
• Install a new axle nut by hand.
• Torque the axle nut to 245 Nm (181 ft-lbs). Verify with service data if available.

Step 9: Reinstall the brake parts and wheel

• Reinstall the rotor and brake caliper.
• Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 110 Nm (81 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts snug.
• Lower the car and torque the lug nuts to 107 Nm (79 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal before driving to seat the caliper.
• Check that the wheel spins freely with no grinding or wobble.
• Test drive slowly first and listen for noise.
• If the ABS light stays on, scan for wheel speed sensor codes and inspect the harness.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 per side (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 per side (parts only)

You Save: $330-$570 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.