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2018 Ram 3500
2018 Ram 3500
Tradesman - V8 6.4L
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2018 Ram 3500 Super Duty water pump

2018 Ram 3500 Super Duty water pump

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Safety
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Glasses
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How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2018 Ram 3500 6.4L HEMI

Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, 18 ft-lb torque spec, coolant refill & bleeding tips

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2018 Ram 3500 6.4L HEMI

Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, 18 ft-lb torque spec, coolant refill & bleeding tips

Orion
Orion

🔧 3500 - Water Pump Replacement

On your 3500’s 6.4L HEMI, the water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. Replacing it usually involves draining coolant, removing the fan/shroud and belt, swapping the pump and gasket, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
  • ⚠️ Hot coolant can cause severe burns—open the cap slowly with a rag.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands/clothes away from the fan area; disconnect the battery to prevent accidental cranking.
  • ⚠️ Support the truck securely if you raise it—never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Capture coolant in a drain pan; keep away from kids/pets.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Drain pan (at least 4 gallons)
  • Funnel
  • Shop towels
  • Plastic trim clip remover
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Pliers
  • Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
  • Torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range)
  • Ratchet (3/8" drive)
  • Ratchet (1/2" drive)
  • Extensions (3" and 6")
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • Fan clutch wrench set 36mm (specialty)
  • Gasket scraper (plastic)
  • Razor scraper (plastic-safe)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Water pump - Qty: 1
  • Water pump gasket / seal (if not included with pump) - Qty: 1
  • Coolant (Mopar OAT, 50/50 premix or concentrate + distilled water) - Qty: 3-4 gallons (as needed)
  • Distilled water (if using concentrate) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (as needed)
  • Hose clamp(s) (optional, if clamps are weak or rusted) - Qty: 1-3

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool fully (upper radiator hose should feel cool).
  • Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Set your drain pan under the radiator drain area before loosening anything.
  • Take photos before removing brackets/hoses.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the intake duct (for room)

  • Loosen the clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
  • Unclip/remove the duct and set it aside.

Step 2: Drain the coolant

  • Place the drain pan (at least 4 gallons) under the radiator drain area.
  • Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to relieve pressure (only when cool).
  • Open the radiator drain (if equipped) using pliers, or remove the lower radiator hose clamp using pliers to drain.
  • After draining, reinstall/secure the drain or lower hose temporarily.

Step 3: Remove the fan shroud

  • Remove the upper shroud fasteners using a 10mm socket.
  • Use a plastic trim clip remover for any push-pins/clips.
  • Lift the shroud slightly to free it (you’ll fully remove it once the fan is loose).

Step 4: Remove the mechanical fan and clutch

  • Use a fan clutch wrench set 36mm (specialty) to loosen the fan clutch nut at the water pump pulley.
  • Hold the pulley from turning per your wrench set design, then spin the fan/clutch off and lift it out with the shroud.
  • Keep the fan vertical to avoid radiator damage.

Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt

  • Rotate the belt tensioner using a serpentine belt tool (specialty) (this long handle helps in tight spaces).
  • Slip the belt off one pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
  • Note the belt routing (take a photo or reference the under-hood routing label).

Step 6: Disconnect hoses from the water pump area

  • Remove the upper radiator hose from the pump/thermostat housing area using pliers.
  • Remove any small bypass/heater hose at the pump using pliers.
  • If a hose is stuck, gently twist it by hand—don’t pry on plastic fittings.

Step 7: Remove the water pump

  • Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket (some locations may use a 13mm socket depending on pump design).
  • Support the pump as the last bolts come out, then remove it from the timing cover.
  • Clean the mating surface using a gasket scraper (plastic) and shop towels.
  • Do not gouge the aluminum—use a razor scraper (plastic-safe) lightly if needed.

Step 8: Install the new water pump and gasket

  • Install the new gasket/seal on the new pump (match orientation exactly).
  • Position the pump and hand-start all bolts to prevent cross-threading.
  • Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a ratchet (3/8" drive).
  • Final tighten using a torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range): Torque water pump bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall hoses, belt, fan, and shroud

  • Reconnect hoses and position clamps using pliers.
  • Reinstall the serpentine belt using the serpentine belt tool (specialty) and confirm it’s seated in every pulley groove.
  • Reinstall the fan/clutch using the fan clutch wrench set 36mm (specialty) (snug firmly; it self-tightens in operation).
  • Reinstall the shroud fasteners using a 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the intake duct clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 10: Refill and bleed the cooling system

  • Close the drain (or ensure the lower hose is secured) using pliers.
  • Fill the coolant reservoir with Coolant (Mopar OAT, 50/50) using a funnel.
  • Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Start the engine and set heat to HOT, fan on LOW.
  • Let it idle and watch the temp gauge; top off coolant as the level drops.
  • Once warm, verify the upper radiator hose gets hot (thermostat open) and check for leaks.

✅ After Repair

  • Inspect for leaks around the pump and all hose connections with the engine running.
  • Verify the heater blows hot air (confirms coolant flow).
  • After a full cool-down, recheck the coolant level and top off to the “FULL COLD” mark.
  • Check belt tracking (should run centered on pulleys) and listen for squealing.
  • Over the next 2-3 drives, recheck for seepage and recheck coolant level when cold.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$910 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.5 hours.


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