How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2018 Ram 3500 6.4L HEMI
Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, 18 ft-lb torque spec, coolant refill & bleeding tips
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2018 Ram 3500 6.4L HEMI
Step-by-step DIY replacement with required tools/parts, 18 ft-lb torque spec, coolant refill & bleeding tips
🔧 3500 - Water Pump Replacement
On your 3500’s 6.4L HEMI, the water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. Replacing it usually involves draining coolant, removing the fan/shroud and belt, swapping the pump and gasket, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
- ⚠️ Hot coolant can cause severe burns—open the cap slowly with a rag.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/clothes away from the fan area; disconnect the battery to prevent accidental cranking.
- ⚠️ Support the truck securely if you raise it—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Capture coolant in a drain pan; keep away from kids/pets.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 4 gallons)
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Plastic trim clip remover
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Pliers
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Ratchet (1/2" drive)
- Extensions (3" and 6")
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Fan clutch wrench set 36mm (specialty)
- Gasket scraper (plastic)
- Razor scraper (plastic-safe)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket / seal (if not included with pump) - Qty: 1
- Coolant (Mopar OAT, 50/50 premix or concentrate + distilled water) - Qty: 3-4 gallons (as needed)
- Distilled water (if using concentrate) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (as needed)
- Hose clamp(s) (optional, if clamps are weak or rusted) - Qty: 1-3
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (upper radiator hose should feel cool).
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Set your drain pan under the radiator drain area before loosening anything.
- Take photos before removing brackets/hoses.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the intake duct (for room)
- Loosen the clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
- Unclip/remove the duct and set it aside.
Step 2: Drain the coolant
- Place the drain pan (at least 4 gallons) under the radiator drain area.
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to relieve pressure (only when cool).
- Open the radiator drain (if equipped) using pliers, or remove the lower radiator hose clamp using pliers to drain.
- After draining, reinstall/secure the drain or lower hose temporarily.
Step 3: Remove the fan shroud
- Remove the upper shroud fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Use a plastic trim clip remover for any push-pins/clips.
- Lift the shroud slightly to free it (you’ll fully remove it once the fan is loose).
Step 4: Remove the mechanical fan and clutch
- Use a fan clutch wrench set 36mm (specialty) to loosen the fan clutch nut at the water pump pulley.
- Hold the pulley from turning per your wrench set design, then spin the fan/clutch off and lift it out with the shroud.
- Keep the fan vertical to avoid radiator damage.
Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt
- Rotate the belt tensioner using a serpentine belt tool (specialty) (this long handle helps in tight spaces).
- Slip the belt off one pulley and slowly release the tensioner.
- Note the belt routing (take a photo or reference the under-hood routing label).
Step 6: Disconnect hoses from the water pump area
- Remove the upper radiator hose from the pump/thermostat housing area using pliers.
- Remove any small bypass/heater hose at the pump using pliers.
- If a hose is stuck, gently twist it by hand—don’t pry on plastic fittings.
Step 7: Remove the water pump
- Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket (some locations may use a 13mm socket depending on pump design).
- Support the pump as the last bolts come out, then remove it from the timing cover.
- Clean the mating surface using a gasket scraper (plastic) and shop towels.
- Do not gouge the aluminum—use a razor scraper (plastic-safe) lightly if needed.
Step 8: Install the new water pump and gasket
- Install the new gasket/seal on the new pump (match orientation exactly).
- Position the pump and hand-start all bolts to prevent cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a ratchet (3/8" drive).
- Final tighten using a torque wrench (10–80 ft-lb range): Torque water pump bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall hoses, belt, fan, and shroud
- Reconnect hoses and position clamps using pliers.
- Reinstall the serpentine belt using the serpentine belt tool (specialty) and confirm it’s seated in every pulley groove.
- Reinstall the fan/clutch using the fan clutch wrench set 36mm (specialty) (snug firmly; it self-tightens in operation).
- Reinstall the shroud fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the intake duct clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 10: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Close the drain (or ensure the lower hose is secured) using pliers.
- Fill the coolant reservoir with Coolant (Mopar OAT, 50/50) using a funnel.
- Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and set heat to HOT, fan on LOW.
- Let it idle and watch the temp gauge; top off coolant as the level drops.
- Once warm, verify the upper radiator hose gets hot (thermostat open) and check for leaks.
✅ After Repair
- Inspect for leaks around the pump and all hose connections with the engine running.
- Verify the heater blows hot air (confirms coolant flow).
- After a full cool-down, recheck the coolant level and top off to the “FULL COLD” mark.
- Check belt tracking (should run centered on pulleys) and listen for squealing.
- Over the next 2-3 drives, recheck for seepage and recheck coolant level when cold.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $330-$910 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















