How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2018 Nissan Armada (Belt-Driven vs Chain-Driven)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, coolant drain/refill, and what to check before teardown
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2018 Nissan Armada (Belt-Driven vs Chain-Driven)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, coolant drain/refill, and what to check before teardown


🔧 Armada - Water Pump Replacement
On your Armada, the water pump replacement procedure depends on whether the pump is belt-driven (has an external pulley) or timing-chain-driven (no pulley; behind the front cover). Those are very different jobs—one is a few hours, the other is a major front-engine teardown.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate (belt-driven) / Advanced (chain-driven) | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours / 10-16 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors; wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be removing the fan/shroud or working near the starter wiring.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; capture it in a drain pan and dispose of it properly.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Socket set 8mm-19mm
- Wrench set 8mm-19mm
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Gasket scraper
- Plastic razor blade scraper
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket / O-ring (as equipped) - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Nissan-compatible long-life) - Qty: 3-4 gallons (premix equivalent)
- RTV silicone sealant (coolant-safe) - Qty: 1
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 Replace if cracked or soaked.
- Thermostat and gasket - Qty: 1 Recommended while coolant is drained.
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (minimum 2-3 hours).
- Open the hood and remove the radiator cap only when cool.
- Raise the front and support with jack stands if you need access to the lower splash shield.
- Quick check (important): Look at the front of the engine—does the water pump have an external pulley with the serpentine belt riding on it?
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm which water pump design you have
- Use a flashlight and look at the belt routing at the front of the engine.
- If you see the serpentine belt driving a water pump pulley, it’s the belt-driven procedure.
- If there is no pump pulley and the belt does not ride on a pump, it’s typically a chain-driven pump behind the front cover (major job).
Step 2: Tell me these 2 things so I can give the exact OEM steps and torque specs
- Does your pump have an external pulley (yes/no)?
- Are you seeing a coolant leak at the pump area or overheating (which one)?
Step 3: Safe coolant drain (works for either design)
- Place a drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator drain.
- Remove the lower splash shield as needed using a trim clip removal tool and socket set 8mm-12mm.
- Open the radiator drain and drain coolant fully. Keep pets away from coolant.
Step 4: Stop here until pump type is confirmed
- The next steps (fan/shroud removal, belt removal, and especially torque specs) differ by pump design.
- Reply with the two answers from Step 2, and I’ll continue with the correct, trim-accurate procedure.
✅ After Repair
- Refill with the correct coolant mixture and bleed air from the cooling system.
- Warm the engine to operating temp and verify cabin heat is hot (a quick air-pocket check).
- Check for leaks at the pump area and hose connections after a short test drive.
- Recheck coolant level after the engine cools again.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (belt-driven) / $1,800-$3,500 (chain-driven)
DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $480-$3,150 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours or 10-16 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















