🔧 Forte - Water Pump Replacement

On your Forte, the water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. If it leaks, makes bearing noise, or the engine runs hot, replacing the pump restores proper cooling and prevents overheating damage.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Only work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and paint; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Dispose of coolant properly; it’s toxic to people and pets.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but remove the key and keep hands clear of the cooling fan (it can run unexpectedly).

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (2-ton minimum pair)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" extensions (3" and 6")
• Breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Plastic gasket scraper
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Water pump - Qty: 1
• Water pump gasket / O-ring seal - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (P-OAT long-life, premixed 50/50) - Qty: 2 gallons
• Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1 (recommended while you’re there)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely (radiator hose should feel cool).
• Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and place it securely on jack stands.
• Remove the right-front wheel and the right-front splash shield to access the belt/pump area.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the right-front wheel and splash shield

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and jack stands (2-ton minimum pair) to safely support the car.
• Remove the wheel (lug nuts) using a 17mm socket.
• Remove the plastic clips/screws for the splash shield using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.

Step 2: Drain the coolant

• Place a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the radiator drain area.
• Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to release any leftover pressure.
• Open the radiator drain (petcock) using a flathead screwdriver if needed, and drain coolant into the pan.
• Tip: Open slowly to control the stream.

Step 3: Remove the accessory drive belt

• Locate the belt tensioner (spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight).
• Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) or breaker bar (3/8" or 1/2") on the tensioner and rotate it to relieve belt tension.
• Slide the belt off a smooth pulley first, then remove it from the rest of the pulleys.
• Tip: Take a photo of belt routing.

Step 4: Remove the water pump pulley (if equipped)

• If your pump has a bolt-on pulley, hold the pulley from turning and remove the bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the pulley and set it aside.
• During reassembly, pulley bolts typically tighten light: Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the water pump

• Put shop towels under the pump area; more coolant will spill when the pump comes off.
• Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket (bolt heads can vary by position).
• Gently break the seal and pull the pump away. If it sticks, tap lightly with the handle of a flathead screwdriver (do not pry hard on aluminum surfaces).
• Remove the old gasket/O-ring and clean the mating surface with a plastic gasket scraper and shop towels.
• Tip: Clean surfaces must be dry and smooth.

Step 6: Install the new water pump and gasket

• Install the new gasket/O-ring on the new pump (match the original orientation).
• Position the pump and hand-thread all bolts first using your fingers to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket/12mm socket and then a torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range).
• Water pump bolts typically tighten light: Torque to 11 Nm (8 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Reinstall the pulley and belt

• Reinstall the pulley (if removed) using a 10mm socket and tighten: Torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
• Route the belt correctly and rotate the tensioner with the serpentine belt tool (specialty) to slip the belt fully onto the last pulley.
• Visually confirm the belt is centered on every pulley groove.

Step 8: Reinstall splash shield and wheel

• Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the wheel using a 17mm socket.
• Lower the car and tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range): Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Refill and bleed air from the cooling system

• Close the radiator drain.
• Fill the coolant reservoir slowly using a funnel with Engine coolant (P-OAT long-life, premixed 50/50) to the MAX line.
• Start the engine and set HVAC to full HOT with fan on low.
• Let it idle and watch the temperature gauge. As the thermostat opens, the coolant level may drop—top off as needed.
• Once warm, carefully check for leaks around the pump using safety glasses.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks with the engine running and again after a short 10–15 minute drive.
• After the engine cools, recheck the reservoir level and top off to MAX if needed.
• Confirm heater blows hot and the temperature gauge stays normal.
• Listen for belt squeal; if present, recheck belt routing and seating.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $360-$680 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.