🔧 Traverse - Water Pump Replacement

Your Traverse’s water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. If it’s leaking (coolant drip, crusty orange/white residue) or the bearing is failing (whine/grind), replacing it prevents overheating and engine damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Work only on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
• 🧯 Never open the coolant cap when hot; pressure can spray coolant.
• 🧯 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🧯 Keep hands clear of the belt path; the tensioner is spring-loaded.
• 🧯 Dispose of old coolant properly; it’s toxic to people and pets.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• 22mm socket
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Trim clip removal tool
• 7mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8-inch drive)
• Extension set (3/8-inch drive)
• Hose clamp pliers
• Plastic gasket scraper
• Drain pan (at least 12-quart)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Water pump with gasket/seal - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (Dex-Cool 50/50 premix) - Qty: 3 gallons
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 Optional but smart if worn
• Hose clamps - Qty: 2 Optional if originals are weak

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧰 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool completely.
• 🧰 Set the HVAC to full HOT later during bleeding; it helps move coolant through the heater core.
• 🧰 Place a drain pan under the front of the engine area before opening any hoses.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the right-front wheel and splash shield

• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack to lift the right-front and support with jack stands.
• Use a 22mm socket and breaker bar to remove the wheel lug nuts, then remove the wheel.
• Use a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove the fasteners/clips and pull back/remove the right-front splash shield.
• Reinstall later: Torque wheel lug nuts to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).

Step 2: Relieve cooling system pressure

• Use shop towels to cover the coolant surge tank cap, then slowly loosen it to release any remaining pressure.
• Remove the cap once pressure is fully released.

Step 3: Drain the coolant

• Position a drain pan (at least 12-quart) under the radiator/engine front area.
• Drain from the radiator drain cock (if equipped) using a 8mm socket, or drain by loosening the lower radiator hose clamp with hose clamp pliers and carefully cracking the hose loose.
• Open slowly—coolant can rush out fast.

Step 4: Remove the air intake duct (for access up top)

• Use an 8mm socket to loosen the intake duct clamps.
• Disconnect any attached clips, then lift the duct out of the way.

Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt

• From the right-front access area, use a 15mm socket and ratchet (3/8-inch drive) to rotate the belt tensioner and relieve tension.
• Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it. Take a photo of belt routing first.
• Spring tension is strong—hold it firmly.

Step 6: Remove the water pump pulley

• Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet (3/8-inch drive) to remove the water pump pulley bolts.
• Remove the pulley and set it aside.
• On reassembly: Torque pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Disconnect the coolant hoses from the water pump

• Use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamps and slide them back on the hose.
• Twist the hose gently by hand to break it free, then pull it off.
• Catch remaining coolant in the drain pan.

Step 8: Remove the water pump

• Use a 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8-inch drive), and extension set to remove the water pump mounting bolts.
• Remove the water pump from the engine.
• Use shop towels to keep coolant off the belt area.

Step 9: Clean the mating surface

• Use a plastic gasket scraper and shop towels to clean the engine’s sealing surface.
• Do not gouge the aluminum. Clean until smooth and dry.

Step 10: Install the new water pump

• Install the new gasket/seal onto the new pump (it should sit flat, not pinched).
• Position the pump and hand-thread all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 10mm socket to snug bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
• Use a torque wrench (10-200 Nm range) to finish tightening: Torque water pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 11: Reconnect hoses and reinstall pulley and belt

• Reconnect the coolant hoses and reposition clamps using hose clamp pliers.
• Install the water pump pulley and tighten with a 10mm socket, then: Torque pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Route the belt correctly and rotate the tensioner with a 15mm socket to slip the belt on.
• Visually confirm the belt is seated in every pulley groove.

Step 12: Reinstall splash shield, wheel, and intake duct

• Reinstall the splash shield fasteners using a 7mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall the wheel using a 22mm socket. Lower the vehicle.
• Use a torque wrench: Torque wheel lug nuts to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the intake duct using an 8mm socket to tighten the clamps.

Step 13: Refill and bleed the cooling system

• Use a funnel to refill the surge tank with Dex-Cool 50/50 premix to the FULL COLD line.
• Start the engine and set the HVAC to HOT with the fan on low.
• Let it idle and watch the level; add coolant as needed with the funnel.
• Once the engine reaches operating temp, verify you have hot air from the vents.
• Shut the engine off, let it cool fully, then recheck and top off to FULL COLD.
• Cool, top off, repeat once if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 With the engine warm, inspect for leaks around the pump and hose connections using a work light.
• 🧪 Verify the temperature gauge stays normal on a 10–15 minute drive.
• 🧪 After the next full cool-down, recheck coolant level at the FULL COLD mark.
• 🧪 If you spilled coolant on the belt/pulleys, clean with shop towels before driving.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $760-$1,080 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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