Howtoo Logo
2016 Subaru Crosstrek
2016 Subaru Crosstrek
Premium - Flat 4 2.0L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

How do I connect my phone to my stereo?

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

What is my horsepower and torque

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

What is this warning light on my dash?

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

I have a P0300 engine code

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

What vehicle is this?

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

Find a shop to do this repair

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

What’s your favorite vehicle of all time?

How to Replace Engine Water Pump 2014-2018 Subaru Forester

How to Replace Engine Water Pump 2014-2018 Subaru Forester

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0L (FB20)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and coolant refill/bleeding tips

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek 2.0L (FB20)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and coolant refill/bleeding tips

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

🔧 Crosstrek - Water Pump Replacement

The water pump circulates coolant through your engine and radiator to prevent overheating. Replacing it means draining coolant, removing the accessory belt and water pump, then installing the new pump with a fresh gasket and refilling/bleeding the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

Assumption: stock 2.0L FB20 layout with belt-driven water pump.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can burn you.
  • ⚠️ Support the Crosstrek with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Cooling fans can turn on automatically; disconnect the battery negative terminal before working near the fans.
  • ⚠️ Keep coolant off the ground; it’s toxic to pets and people.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
  • Funnel
  • Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (5–50 Nm range)
  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
  • Extensions: 3" and 6"
  • 10mm wrench
  • 12mm wrench
  • 14mm wrench
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Plastic gasket scraper
  • Shop towels
  • Flashlight

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Water pump - Qty: 1
  • Water pump gasket / O-ring (as equipped) - Qty: 1
  • Subaru-compatible coolant (blue long-life premix) - Qty: 2 gallons
  • Accessory drive belt - Qty: 1
  • Thermostat with gasket (recommended while coolant is drained) - Qty: 1
  • Radiator drain plug gasket (if damaged) - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool completely (ideally overnight).
  • Raise the front and set the Crosstrek securely on jack stands.
  • Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the battery negative terminal and move it aside so it can’t spring back.
  • Remove the lower engine splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and a 12mm socket (fasteners vary by shield).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Drain the coolant

  • Place a drain pan under the radiator drain.
  • Slowly open the radiator cap to relieve any leftover pressure.
  • Open the radiator drain and let coolant fully drain into the pan.
  • Use shop towels to wipe spills immediately.

Step 2: Remove the intake snorkel (if it blocks access)

  • Use a 10mm socket to remove the snorkel fasteners and lift the snorkel out.
  • This gives your hands more working room.

Step 3: Remove the accessory drive belt

  • Locate the belt tensioner. Use a 14mm wrench on the tensioner hex and rotate it to release belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the pulleys and remove it.
  • A photo of the belt routing helps a lot.

Step 4: Remove the water pump pulley

  • Hold the pulley from turning with your hand and use a 10mm socket to remove the pulley bolts.
  • Remove the pulley and set it aside.
  • If bolts fight you, reinstall belt briefly to hold it.

Step 5: Disconnect hoses at the water pump (as needed)

  • Use hose clamp pliers to slide the clamps back.
  • Twist the hose gently to break it free, then pull it off.
  • Twisting first prevents tearing the hose.

Step 6: Remove the water pump

  • Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and extension.
  • Pull the water pump straight off. Expect some coolant to spill—keep the drain pan underneath.
  • Remove the old gasket/O-ring material from the engine surface using a plastic gasket scraper.

Step 7: Install the new water pump

  • Compare the new pump to the old one (bolt holes and hose connections should match).
  • Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump (dry fit unless the gasket instructions say otherwise).
  • Position the pump and hand-thread all bolts first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 9.5 Nm (7 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 8: Reinstall the water pump pulley

  • Install the pulley and hand-start the bolts.
  • Snug the bolts evenly using a 10mm socket.
  • Torque to 9.5 Nm (7 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Reconnect hoses

  • Push hoses fully onto their fittings.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamps back into their original positions.
  • Wipe everything dry so leaks are easy to spot later.

Step 10: Reinstall the accessory drive belt

  • Route the belt around the pulleys (match your photo).
  • Use a 14mm wrench to rotate the tensioner, slip the belt on, then release the tensioner slowly.
  • Visually confirm the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.

Step 11: Reinstall splash shield and reconnect battery

  • Reinstall the lower splash shield using the trim clip removal tool and a 12mm socket.
  • Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.

Step 12: Refill and bleed the cooling system

  • Install a spill-free coolant funnel kit (a funnel that locks into the radiator fill neck to help “burp” air out).
  • Fill with Subaru-compatible premixed coolant until the funnel level stabilizes.
  • Start the engine and set the heater to full hot with the fan on low.
  • Let it idle. Watch for air bubbles to purge. Add coolant as the level drops.
  • Once the engine reaches operating temp and bubbles mostly stop, shut the engine off and let it cool fully.
  • Top off the radiator and the coolant reservoir to the proper mark.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and inspect around the water pump and hoses for leaks with a flashlight.
  • Take a short 10–15 minute drive, then recheck for leaks and recheck coolant level after a full cool-down.
  • If the temperature gauge rises abnormally or heat blows cold, shut it off and re-bleed air from the system.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)

You Save: $510-$730 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn