How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a leak-free cooling system repair for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Nissan Altima (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)
Tools, parts list, safety tips, and key torque specs for a leak-free cooling system repair for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Water Pump Replacement
Your Altima’s water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. Replacing it fixes leaks, overheating, or a noisy/loose pump bearing and helps protect the engine from serious damage.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the passenger-side engine mount.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—catch it in a drain pan and dispose of it properly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the belt path when rotating the tensioner.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- 1/2" breaker bar
- Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- Extensions: 3" and 6"
- Serpentine belt tool 14mm
- Pliers (hose clamp pliers)
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Shop rags
- Wood block (2x6 or similar)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket/O-ring (as equipped) - Qty: 1
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Nissan Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (Blue) 50/50 premix - Qty: 2 gallons
- Replacement plastic clips (splash shield/undercover) - Qty: 5-10
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (overnight is best).
- Plan to replace the belt while you’re here; it’s already off for access.
- Position a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan to support the engine (light pressure only). The wood spreads the load to avoid pan damage.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front and remove access panels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the car and set it on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the passenger-front wheel using a 19mm socket.
- Remove the passenger-side splash shield/undercover using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
Step 2: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain.
- Open the drain cock using a flathead screwdriver and let coolant drain fully.
- Close the drain cock when finished. Torque to 2 N·m (18 in-lbs).
- Tip: Open the radiator cap slowly (cold only).
Step 3: Support the engine
- Position the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with the wood block under the oil pan.
- Jack up just until the engine weight is supported (do not lift the car off the stands).
Step 4: Remove the passenger-side engine mount (for access)
- Remove the mount-to-body fasteners using a 14mm socket. Torque to 65 N·m (48 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
- Remove the engine mount through-bolt using a 17mm socket and 1/2" breaker bar. Torque to 80 N·m (59 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
- If you remove the mount bracket from the engine, remove bolts using a 14mm socket. Torque to 62 N·m (46 ft-lbs) on reassembly.
Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt
- Rotate the belt tensioner using a serpentine belt tool 14mm to relieve tension, then slip the belt off.
- Tip: Take a quick photo of belt routing.
Step 6: Remove the water pump pulley (if equipped)
- Hold the pulley and remove the pulley bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the pulley and set it aside.
- Reinstall pulley bolts later and Torque to 9.8 N·m (87 in-lbs).
Step 7: Disconnect any coolant hoses at the pump
- Use pliers (hose clamp pliers) to slide the clamp back, then twist and pull the hose off.
- Have the drain pan (at least 10-quart) ready; more coolant will drain.
Step 8: Remove the water pump
- Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 12mm socket.
- Pull the water pump straight off the engine.
- Clean the mating surface using a plastic gasket scraper and shop rags. Do not gouge the aluminum.
Step 9: Install the new water pump and gasket/O-ring
- Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump (match the original orientation).
- Position the new water pump and start all bolts by hand.
- Tighten water pump bolts evenly using a 12mm socket, then Torque to 12 N·m (106 in-lbs).
- Reconnect coolant hose(s) and re-seat clamps using pliers (hose clamp pliers).
Step 10: Reinstall pulley, belt, and engine mount
- Reinstall the water pump pulley and tighten bolts using a 10mm socket. Torque to 9.8 N·m (87 in-lbs).
- Install the serpentine belt and rotate the tensioner using the serpentine belt tool 14mm to slip the belt fully into all grooves.
- Reinstall the passenger-side engine mount using 14mm socket and 17mm socket:
- Mount bracket-to-engine bolts: Torque to 62 N·m (46 ft-lbs)
- Engine mount through-bolt: Torque to 80 N·m (59 ft-lbs)
- Mount-to-body fasteners: Torque to 65 N·m (48 ft-lbs)
- Lower the engine support jack slowly using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 11: Reinstall splash shield and wheel
- Reinstall the splash shield/undercover using a 10mm socket and trim clip remover.
- Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket. Torque to 113 N·m (83 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Fill the radiator slowly with Nissan Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (Blue) 50/50 premix using a funnel.
- Fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line.
- Start the engine and set the heater to HOT.
- Let it idle until warm while watching the temperature gauge.
- Shut the engine off, let it cool, and top off the radiator and reservoir as needed.
- Inspect for leaks around the pump and hoses using safety glasses.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and verify there are no coolant leaks and no belt squeal.
- Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck coolant level after a full cool-down.
- Verify the heater blows hot (a cold heater can mean trapped air).
- Recheck for seepage at the water pump the next day.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $530-$790 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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