How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (3.5L V6)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, coolant bleed process, and torque specs
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2016 Lexus GS350 (3.5L V6)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, coolant bleed process, and torque specs
🔧 GS - Water Pump Replacement
The water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator to prevent overheating. On your GS, the pump is driven by the serpentine belt, so you’ll drain coolant, remove the belt, unbolt the pump, then reinstall and bleed the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
Assumption: torque specs below reflect typical OEM specs for this V6; verify with an OEM manual if available.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; wait until fully cool.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off paint and away from pets/children; it’s toxic.
- ⚠️ Disconnecting the battery is not required, but keep hands/tools clear of the radiator fan area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Serpentine belt tool 14mm
- Extension set 3" and 6"
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Pliers (hose clamp)
- Gasket scraper (plastic)
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine water pump assembly - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket / O-ring (as equipped) - Qty: 1
- Toyota/Lexus Super Long Life Coolant (pink, premixed) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Hose clamp (coolant hose, if damaged) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (at least 2 hours) before opening the cooling system.
- Set your HVAC to HI (full heat) during bleeding later so coolant can circulate through the heater core (the small radiator for cabin heat).
- Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and support it with jack stands at the proper lift points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the lower engine cover (undertray)
- Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- Use a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket to remove the clips/bolts holding the undertray.
- Set the fasteners aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.
Step 2: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain.
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir/radiator cap (only if the engine is fully cool).
- Open the radiator drain cock using a flat-blade screwdriver (if slotted) and let coolant drain fully.
- Tip: keep the drain pan centered; coolant can stream out.
Step 3: Remove the intake ducting for access (if it blocks the belt area)
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen hose clamps.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any air duct bolts/clips.
- Lift the ducting out and place it where it won’t get dirty.
Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt
- A serpentine belt is the single long belt that drives accessories like the alternator and water pump.
- Use a serpentine belt tool 14mm on the belt tensioner and rotate to relieve tension.
- Slip the belt off one pulley, then remove it completely.
- Tip: take a photo of belt routing first.
Step 5: Remove any components blocking the water pump
- Use a metric socket set 8mm-14mm, ratchet, and extensions to remove brackets/covers that block access.
- Use a flashlight to confirm clear access to the pump bolts and hose connection points.
Step 6: Disconnect coolant hoses from the water pump (as equipped)
- Position the drain pan under the pump area (more coolant will spill here).
- Use pliers (hose clamp) to slide spring clamps back, then twist/pull the hose off carefully.
- Use shop towels to catch drips.
- Tip: twist the hose to break it loose.
Step 7: Unbolt and remove the water pump
- Use a metric socket set 10mm-12mm and ratchet to remove the water pump mounting bolts.
- Remove the pump from the engine. If it’s stuck, gently tap and wiggle it by hand—do not pry hard against aluminum surfaces.
- Clean up any coolant spill with shop towels.
Step 8: Clean the sealing surface
- Use a gasket scraper (plastic) to remove old gasket material or residue.
- Wipe the surface clean with shop towels until it’s smooth and dry.
- Tip: don’t gouge the aluminum surface.
Step 9: Install the new water pump and gasket/O-ring
- Install the new water pump gasket / O-ring onto the pump (match the original layout).
- Position the pump and hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a ratchet.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 10: Reconnect hoses and reinstall any removed brackets/covers
- Reinstall coolant hoses fully seated, then position clamps using pliers (hose clamp).
- Reinstall brackets/covers using the metric socket set and ratchet.
- If you removed any larger fasteners, tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs) unless otherwise marked.
Step 11: Install the serpentine belt
- Route the belt according to your photo (or the under-hood belt routing diagram if present).
- Use the serpentine belt tool 14mm to rotate the tensioner and slip the belt onto the final pulley.
- Visually confirm the belt is centered in every pulley groove.
Step 12: Refill coolant and bleed air from the system
- Close the radiator drain cock using a flat-blade screwdriver (snug only).
- Use a funnel to fill with Toyota/Lexus Super Long Life Coolant (pink, premixed).
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater set to HI.
- As the engine warms, add coolant as the level drops. Watch for steady cabin heat (a sign coolant is circulating).
- When the cooling fan cycles and the upper radiator hose feels hot, shut the engine off and let it cool, then top off again.
- Tip: trapped air can cause overheating.
Step 13: Reinstall the undertray and lower the car
- Reinstall the undertray using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool (for clips).
- Raise slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, then lower the car.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and inspect the water pump area with a flashlight for leaks.
- Verify normal operating temperature and strong heat from the vents.
- Recheck coolant level after the first full heat-soak cycle (drive, cool down, then top off).
- Listen for belt squeal; if present, re-check belt routing and seating.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $470-$680 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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