How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2015-2019 Subaru Outback (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: Flat 6 3.6L)
Tools, parts list, torque specs, coolant refill/bleeding steps, and safety tips to stop leaks and overheating
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2015-2019 Subaru Outback (Step-by-Step Guide) (Engine: Flat 6 3.6L)
Tools, parts list, torque specs, coolant refill/bleeding steps, and safety tips to stop leaks and overheating for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Outback - Water Pump Replacement
The water pump circulates coolant through your Outback’s engine and radiator. If it’s leaking (coolant drips/crust near the pump) or the engine is running hot, replacing the pump and refilling/bleeding the cooling system fixes the root cause.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine—coolant can spray and burn.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to pets and people—use a drain pan and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Support the Outback with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep fingers/tools clear of the cooling fans—they can start unexpectedly.
- Disconnecting the battery is recommended before working near the fans/serpentine belt.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
- Wrench set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
- Torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Plastic scraper
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket / O-ring (as applicable) - Qty: 1
- Subaru-compatible coolant (pre-mixed long life) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 (recommended if belt is worn)
- Thermostat + gasket - Qty: 1 (optional but smart while drained)
- Hose clamps - Qty: as needed (if clamps are weak/rusted)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (ideally overnight).
- Set the HVAC to full heat before you start bleeding later: Temp HI (this helps coolant circulate through the heater core).
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative terminal and position it so it can’t spring back.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front and remove the lower splash shield
- Use a floor jack to lift the front and set the Outback on jack stands.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the clips, then use a 10mm socket for any bolts holding the lower engine cover.
Step 2: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain.
- Open the radiator drain plug slowly by hand (or use a pliers gently if needed). Then remove the radiator cap to help it drain.
- Tip: Save old coolant only if it’s clean.
Step 3: Remove the intake ducting for access
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen clamps and remove the intake snorkel/ducting pieces that block access at the front of the engine.
Step 4: Remove both cooling fan assemblies (for working room)
- Unplug the fan electrical connectors by hand (press the tab, pull straight out).
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the fan mounting bolts, then lift the fan assemblies straight up and out.
Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt
- Take a quick photo of the belt routing (phone camera).
- Use a 14mm wrench on the belt tensioner and rotate it to relieve tension, then slip the belt off.
- Tip: If the belt is cracked, replace it.
Step 6: Remove the water pump pulley (if equipped)
- If your pump has a pulley, use a 10mm socket to remove the pulley bolts.
- If the pulley wants to spin, reinstall the belt temporarily or hold the pulley carefully by hand while loosening.
- Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the pulley bolts.
Step 7: Disconnect hoses at the pump
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the spring clamps, then slide them back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off. Catch remaining coolant with the drain pan and rags.
Step 8: Remove the water pump
- Remove any brackets blocking the pump using a 12mm socket.
- Use a 10mm socket (and ratchet) to remove the water pump mounting bolts.
- Pull the pump straight off. If it’s stuck, tap gently with the palm of your hand—don’t pry hard against the aluminum surface.
Step 9: Clean the mating surface
- Use a plastic scraper to remove old gasket material without gouging the aluminum.
- Wipe clean with shop rags. The surface must be clean and dry.
Step 10: Install the new water pump and gasket
- Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump (match orientation exactly).
- Position the pump and start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 9.5 Nm (7 ft-lbs) for water pump bolts.
Step 11: Reconnect hoses and reinstall removed parts
- Reinstall hoses and move clamps back into position using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
- Reinstall any brackets with a 12mm socket.
- Reinstall the cooling fans using a 10mm socket, then reconnect the fan connectors.
Step 12: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt according to your photo.
- Use a 14mm wrench to rotate the tensioner, slip the belt on, then slowly release the tensioner.
- Double-check the belt is seated in every pulley groove.
Step 13: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Install a spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) on the radiator filler neck.
- Slowly add coolant with a funnel until full.
- Reconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and let it idle. Keep the funnel at least half-full as air burps out.
- When the radiator fans cycle on and off and you get steady cabin heat, shut it off and let it cool.
- Top off the radiator and fill the overflow reservoir to the “FULL” line.
- Tip: Squeeze the upper hose to burp air.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks around the pump and hose connections with the engine running.
- Test drive 10–15 minutes, then recheck coolant level after a full cool-down.
- Verify the temperature gauge stays normal and the heater blows hot.
- Reinstall the lower splash shield using the trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $750-$1,300 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $400-$1,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















