How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Ram 1500 5.7L HEMI (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, coolant refill & bleed procedure, and torque specs
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Ram 1500 5.7L HEMI (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, coolant refill & bleed procedure, and torque specs
🔧 1500 - Water Pump Replacement
The water pump circulates coolant through your A/C-heater and engine to prevent overheating. On your 1500’s 5.7L, replacement involves draining coolant, removing the fan/shroud (if equipped), taking off the serpentine belt, and unbolting the pump.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the cooling system hot; wait until fully cool.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/tools clear of the fan; disconnect the battery before working near the fan/clutch.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; use a drain pan and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Support the truck safely if you raise it; never rely on a jack alone.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Spill-free coolant funnel kit
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers
- Pick tool
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- 36mm fan clutch wrench (specialty)
- Fan pulley holding tool (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket/O-ring (as equipped) - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Mopar OAT meeting MS-12106, purple) premix - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Radiator hose clamp(s) (if originals are weak/damaged) - Qty: 1-3
- Serpentine belt (optional, if cracked/glazed) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (upper radiator hose should feel cool).
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- If you raise the front, lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
- Take a quick photo of the belt routing.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
- Open the radiator drain (petcock) using a flat-blade screwdriver (some turn by hand).
- Remove the coolant reservoir cap by hand to help it drain (only when cool).
Step 2: Remove the intake duct (for working room)
- Loosen the clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver and lift the intake duct out.
- Set it aside where it won’t get dirt inside.
Step 3: Remove the fan/shroud (two common setups)
- If you have a mechanical fan clutch:
- Remove shroud fasteners using a 10mm socket.
- Hold the pulley with a fan pulley holding tool (specialty).
- Loosen the fan clutch nut using a 36mm fan clutch wrench (specialty), then lift the fan and shroud out together.
- If you have an electric fan:
- Unplug the fan connector by hand (use a pick tool gently on the lock tab if needed).
- Remove the fan/shroud bolts using a 10mm socket and lift the assembly out.
- Go slow—radiator fins bend easily.
Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt
- Rotate the belt tensioner using a 15mm socket and a serpentine belt tool (specialty).
- Slip the belt off one upper pulley, then release the tensioner slowly.
- Remove the belt from the water pump pulley area and set it aside.
Step 5: Disconnect hoses from the water pump
- Use hose clamp pliers to move spring clamps back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose; use a pick tool carefully if it’s stuck.
- Pull hoses off and aim them into the drain pan for remaining coolant.
Step 6: Remove the water pump
- Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 13mm socket.
- Support the pump with one hand as the last bolts come out, then pull the pump straight off.
- Clean the mating surface using a plastic gasket scraper, then wipe with brake cleaner spray on shop rags.
- Don’t gouge the aluminum timing cover surface.
Step 7: Install the new water pump
- Install the new gasket/O-ring on the pump (dry unless the gasket instructions say otherwise).
- Position the pump and hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly using a 13mm socket.
- Final tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reconnect hoses
- Push hoses fully onto their fittings by hand.
- Reposition clamps using hose clamp pliers so they sit behind the hose bead.
Step 9: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt using your photo (or the underhood belt diagram) by hand.
- Rotate the tensioner using a 15mm socket and serpentine belt tool (specialty), then slip the belt onto the last pulley.
- Visually confirm the belt is centered in every pulley groove.
Step 10: Reinstall the fan/shroud
- Mechanical fan clutch: Thread the fan clutch back on, snug it using a 36mm fan clutch wrench (specialty) while holding with the fan pulley holding tool (specialty), then reinstall shroud bolts with a 10mm socket.
- Electric fan: Reinstall bolts with a 10mm socket and reconnect the electrical plug by hand.
Step 11: Refill coolant and bleed air
- Close the radiator drain using a flat-blade screwdriver (snug only).
- Fill the cooling system using a spill-free coolant funnel kit with engine coolant (Mopar OAT meeting MS-12106, purple).
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Start the engine and set the heater to HOT, fan on LOW.
- Let it warm up and watch the funnel level; add coolant as air burps out.
- When the thermostat opens (upper hose gets hot), keep topping up until stable.
- Shut the engine off, let it cool, then top off the reservoir to the MAX line.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks around the water pump and hose connections with the engine running.
- Watch the temperature gauge on a 10–15 minute drive; it should stay normal.
- After a full cool-down, recheck coolant level in the reservoir and top off if needed.
- Listen for belt squeal; if present, re-check belt routing and pulley alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $330-$910 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















