How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Nissan Altima (V6 Timing Chain-Driven Pump)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, timing cover reseal tips, and coolant bleed procedure
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Nissan Altima (V6 Timing Chain-Driven Pump)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, timing cover reseal tips, and coolant bleed procedure
🔧 Altima - Water Pump Replacement
On your Altima V6, the water pump is driven by the timing chain and sits behind the front timing cover. Replacing it is a big job because you must open the timing cover area, reseal it correctly, then refill and bleed the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧯 Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system.
- 🧤 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
- 🔥 Coolant is toxic; catch it in a drain pan and clean spills.
- ⚙️ The timing chain area must stay clean; do not drop debris into the engine.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starter/charging wiring work.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Coolant fill funnel kit (spill-free style)
- Trim clip remover
- Plastic pry tool
- Razor scraper
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
- Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench 5-30 Nm
- Torque wrench 40-200 Nm
- Serpentine belt tool 14mm
- Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
- Crank pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket / O-ring - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Nissan-approved long-life) - Qty: 2 gallons
- Front timing cover RTV silicone sealant (Nissan-approved) - Qty: 1
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
- Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
- ❓ Quick check so I don’t steer you wrong (reply with A or B): Are you doing this (A) with the engine staying in the car or (B) removing the engine?
- ❓ What’s the main symptom: coolant leak or overheating/noise?
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain.
- Open the radiator drain and remove the radiator cap to speed draining.
- Close the drain once empty.
Step 2: Raise the front of the car and remove splash shields
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the right-front wheel using a 19mm socket.
- Remove the right-side splash shield/inner liner using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
Step 3: Remove the serpentine drive belt
- Relieve belt tension with a serpentine belt tool 14mm and slip the belt off.
- Take a photo of belt routing first.
Step 4: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount area (as needed for access)
- Install an engine support bar (specialty); this tool holds the engine from above so mounts can be removed safely (it “hangs” the engine by its lifting points).
- Remove mount/bracket fasteners using a metric socket set 8mm-19mm and metric wrench set 8mm-19mm.
- Reinstall/torque mount hardware only during reassembly.
Step 5: Remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer)
- Hold the pulley with a crank pulley holding tool (specialty) (this prevents the crankshaft from turning).
- Remove the crank bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the correct metric socket.
- Pull the pulley off using a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) (a puller removes tight press-fit pulleys safely).
Step 6: Remove components blocking the front timing cover
- Remove any brackets, covers, and front-accessory mounting hardware as required using a metric socket set 8mm-19mm.
- Keep bolts grouped by location/length on a piece of cardboard.
Step 7: Remove the front timing cover
- Remove timing cover bolts using a metric socket set 8mm-14mm and 1/4" drive ratchet where space is tight.
- Carefully separate the cover using a plastic pry tool; do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.
- Clean old sealant off both mating surfaces using a razor scraper, brake cleaner spray, and shop towels.
Step 8: Remove the water pump
- Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the pump and old gasket / O-ring.
- Clean the water pump sealing surface carefully with a razor scraper and brake cleaner spray.
Step 9: Install the new water pump
- Install the new gasket / O-ring and position the new pump.
- Hand-start all bolts, then tighten evenly with a torque wrench 5-30 Nm.
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reseal and reinstall the front timing cover
- Apply a continuous bead of front timing cover RTV silicone sealant per Nissan sealing points (RTV is a liquid gasket that cures into rubber).
- Install the cover carefully without smearing the sealant off the corners.
- Tighten bolts in steps with a torque wrench 5-30 Nm working from center outward.
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs) for typical cover bolts unless a specific bolt location calls for a different spec.
Step 11: Reinstall crank pulley and belt
- Install a new crankshaft front oil seal if removed/damaged during disassembly.
- Reinstall the crank pulley and crank bolt using a crank pulley holding tool (specialty) and torque wrench 40-200 Nm.
- Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the drive belt using the serpentine belt tool 14mm.
Step 12: Reinstall mounts, shields, and wheel
- Reinstall the right engine mount/brackets using a metric socket set 8mm-19mm and torque wrench 40-200 Nm.
- Reinstall the splash shield with a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
- Reinstall the wheel and tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench 40-200 Nm.
- Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Refill coolant using a coolant fill funnel kit (spill-free style).
- Start the engine and set the heater to HOT with the fan on low.
- Let it warm up and keep topping up until bubbles stop and heat is steady.
- Shut off, cool down, and recheck the level.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Check for leaks around the timing cover seam and water pump area while idling.
- 🌡️ Confirm the temperature gauge stays normal during a 10-15 minute drive.
- 🧴 Recheck coolant level the next morning (engine cold) and top off if needed.
- 🔍 Listen for belt squeal or rubbing; recheck belt routing if you hear noise.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$520 (parts only)
You Save: $680-$1,980 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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