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2013 Nissan Altima
2013 Nissan Altima
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Nissan 3.5 Water pump removal video easy to follow!!!

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How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Nissan Altima (V6 Timing Chain-Driven Pump)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, timing cover reseal tips, and coolant bleed procedure

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Nissan Altima (V6 Timing Chain-Driven Pump)

Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, torque specs, timing cover reseal tips, and coolant bleed procedure

Orion
Orion

🔧 Altima - Water Pump Replacement

On your Altima V6, the water pump is driven by the timing chain and sits behind the front timing cover. Replacing it is a big job because you must open the timing cover area, reseal it correctly, then refill and bleed the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 8-12 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🧯 Let the engine cool fully before opening the cooling system.
  • 🧤 Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
  • 🔥 Coolant is toxic; catch it in a drain pan and clean spills.
  • ⚙️ The timing chain area must stay clean; do not drop debris into the engine.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal before starter/charging wiring work.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
  • Funnel
  • Coolant fill funnel kit (spill-free style)
  • Trim clip remover
  • Plastic pry tool
  • Razor scraper
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Metric socket set 8mm-19mm
  • Metric wrench set 8mm-19mm
  • 1/4" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench 5-30 Nm
  • Torque wrench 40-200 Nm
  • Serpentine belt tool 14mm
  • Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
  • Crank pulley holding tool (specialty)
  • Engine support bar (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Water pump - Qty: 1
  • Water pump gasket / O-ring - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant (Nissan-approved long-life) - Qty: 2 gallons
  • Front timing cover RTV silicone sealant (Nissan-approved) - Qty: 1
  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
  • Crankshaft front oil seal - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • 🔋 Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • ❓ Quick check so I don’t steer you wrong (reply with A or B): Are you doing this (A) with the engine staying in the car or (B) removing the engine?
  • ❓ What’s the main symptom: coolant leak or overheating/noise?

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Drain the coolant

  • Place a drain pan under the radiator drain.
  • Open the radiator drain and remove the radiator cap to speed draining.
  • Close the drain once empty.

Step 2: Raise the front of the car and remove splash shields

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front and support it with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Remove the right-front wheel using a 19mm socket.
  • Remove the right-side splash shield/inner liner using a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.

Step 3: Remove the serpentine drive belt

  • Relieve belt tension with a serpentine belt tool 14mm and slip the belt off.
  • Take a photo of belt routing first.

Step 4: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount area (as needed for access)

  • Install an engine support bar (specialty); this tool holds the engine from above so mounts can be removed safely (it “hangs” the engine by its lifting points).
  • Remove mount/bracket fasteners using a metric socket set 8mm-19mm and metric wrench set 8mm-19mm.
  • Reinstall/torque mount hardware only during reassembly.

Step 5: Remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer)

  • Hold the pulley with a crank pulley holding tool (specialty) (this prevents the crankshaft from turning).
  • Remove the crank bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the correct metric socket.
  • Pull the pulley off using a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty) (a puller removes tight press-fit pulleys safely).

Step 6: Remove components blocking the front timing cover

  • Remove any brackets, covers, and front-accessory mounting hardware as required using a metric socket set 8mm-19mm.
  • Keep bolts grouped by location/length on a piece of cardboard.

Step 7: Remove the front timing cover

  • Remove timing cover bolts using a metric socket set 8mm-14mm and 1/4" drive ratchet where space is tight.
  • Carefully separate the cover using a plastic pry tool; do not gouge the aluminum sealing surfaces.
  • Clean old sealant off both mating surfaces using a razor scraper, brake cleaner spray, and shop towels.

Step 8: Remove the water pump

  • Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket.
  • Remove the pump and old gasket / O-ring.
  • Clean the water pump sealing surface carefully with a razor scraper and brake cleaner spray.

Step 9: Install the new water pump

  • Install the new gasket / O-ring and position the new pump.
  • Hand-start all bolts, then tighten evenly with a torque wrench 5-30 Nm.
  • Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reseal and reinstall the front timing cover

  • Apply a continuous bead of front timing cover RTV silicone sealant per Nissan sealing points (RTV is a liquid gasket that cures into rubber).
  • Install the cover carefully without smearing the sealant off the corners.
  • Tighten bolts in steps with a torque wrench 5-30 Nm working from center outward.
  • Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs) for typical cover bolts unless a specific bolt location calls for a different spec.

Step 11: Reinstall crank pulley and belt

  • Install a new crankshaft front oil seal if removed/damaged during disassembly.
  • Reinstall the crank pulley and crank bolt using a crank pulley holding tool (specialty) and torque wrench 40-200 Nm.
  • Torque to 177 Nm (131 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the drive belt using the serpentine belt tool 14mm.

Step 12: Reinstall mounts, shields, and wheel

  • Reinstall the right engine mount/brackets using a metric socket set 8mm-19mm and torque wrench 40-200 Nm.
  • Reinstall the splash shield with a trim clip remover and 10mm socket.
  • Reinstall the wheel and tighten lug nuts with a torque wrench 40-200 Nm.
  • Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Refill and bleed the cooling system

  • Refill coolant using a coolant fill funnel kit (spill-free style).
  • Start the engine and set the heater to HOT with the fan on low.
  • Let it warm up and keep topping up until bubbles stop and heat is steady.
  • Shut off, cool down, and recheck the level.

✅ After Repair

  • 🧪 Check for leaks around the timing cover seam and water pump area while idling.
  • 🌡️ Confirm the temperature gauge stays normal during a 10-15 minute drive.
  • 🧴 Recheck coolant level the next morning (engine cold) and top off if needed.
  • 🔍 Listen for belt squeal or rubbing; recheck belt routing if you hear noise.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$520 (parts only)

You Save: $680-$1,980 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 8-12 hours.


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