🔧 Grand Cherokee - Water Pump Replacement

On your Grand Cherokee SRT8, the water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. If it’s leaking, noisy, or the engine is overheating, replacing the pump restores proper cooling and prevents engine damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Only work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can burn you.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging/removing the electric cooling fan.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid, level ground; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the belt path; the tensioner is spring-loaded.
• ⚠️ Capture coolant in a drain pan; keep away from kids/pets.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
• Funnel
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• 3/8" torque wrench
• 3/8" extensions (3" and 6")
• Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Shop rags
• Plastic gasket scraper

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Water pump - Qty: 1
• Water pump gasket / seal - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (OAT, purple, 50/50 premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 Optional if worn/cracked
• Hose clamps - Qty: 2 Optional if originals are weak

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely (cool to the touch).
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
• Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove top covers for access

• Remove the upper radiator sight shield/cover clips using a trim clip removal tool.
• Set the clips aside so you don’t lose them.

Step 2: Drain the coolant

• Remove the coolant reservoir cap to vent the system.
• Open the radiator drain (petcock) and drain into your drain pan. Use a flat-blade screwdriver if your drain uses a slotted head.
• Close the drain once flow slows to a drip.
• Tip: Save clips/fasteners in labeled cups.

Step 3: Remove the air intake duct (as needed)

• Loosen intake clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver (whichever your clamps use).
• Lift the intake duct/air inlet out for working room.

Step 4: Remove the electric cooling fan module

• Unplug the fan electrical connector(s).
• Remove the fan module fasteners using a 10mm socket.
• Lift the fan module straight up and out carefully.
• Tip: Don’t pry on the radiator fins.

Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt

• Note the belt routing (take a clear photo before removal).
• Rotate the belt tensioner using a 15mm socket with a serpentine belt tool (specialty).
• Slip the belt off one upper pulley, then release the tensioner slowly.
• Remove the belt from the water pump and set it aside.
• Tip: Release the tensioner slowly to avoid injury.

Step 6: Remove coolant hoses from the water pump

• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the spring clamps.
• Slide the clamp back on the hose, then twist and pull the hose off the water pump nipple.
• Catch remaining coolant with your drain pan and use shop rags to control spills.

Step 7: Remove the water pump

• Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and 13mm socket (bolt heads vary by location).
• Support the pump as the last bolts come out, then remove the pump from the timing cover.
• Clean the sealing surface using a plastic gasket scraper and shop rags.
• Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.

Step 8: Install the new water pump and seal

• Install the new gasket/seal onto the new pump exactly as supplied.
• Position the pump and hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 3/8" ratchet.
• Final-tighten using a 3/8" torque wrench: Torque to factory water pump bolt specification.
• Tip: Hand-start every bolt before tightening.

Step 9: Reinstall hoses, belt, and fan

• Reinstall coolant hoses and position clamps using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• Reinstall the serpentine belt following your photo, using a 15mm socket and serpentine belt tool (specialty) to move the tensioner.
• Reinstall the cooling fan module and fasteners using a 10mm socket, then reconnect the electrical connector(s).
• Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver.
• Reinstall the top cover/clips using a trim clip removal tool.

Step 10: Refill and bleed the cooling system

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Fill the coolant reservoir with OAT (purple) 50/50 premix using a funnel.
• Start the engine and set HVAC to full HOT and medium fan to help purge air.
• Let the engine warm up while watching the temperature gauge and checking for leaks.
• Shut the engine off, let it cool fully, then top off coolant as needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks around the pump and hose connections with the engine running.
• Verify the electric fan turns on as the engine warms up.
• After the first drive and full cool-down, recheck coolant level and top off.
• If the temperature rises quickly or heater blows cold, shut it off and re-bleed (air is trapped).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $750-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$1,070 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.