How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Ford Escape 1.6L EcoBoost (Timing Belt Driven)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, timing lock tips, and coolant bleed steps
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013 Ford Escape 1.6L EcoBoost (Timing Belt Driven)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, timing lock tips, and coolant bleed steps
🔧 Escape - Water Pump Replacement
On your Escape 1.6L turbo, the water pump is driven by the timing belt. Replacing it requires draining coolant and removing the timing belt so the pump can come off the front of the engine.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 5-8 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a fully cool engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing the passenger-side engine mount.
- ⚠️ Do not rotate the engine with the timing belt removed unless cam/crank are locked.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and pulleys; clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended when working near the cooling fan.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Socket set (8mm–21mm)
- Deep socket set (10mm–18mm)
- Combination wrench set (8mm–18mm)
- Torx bit set (T25–T55)
- Serpentine belt tool or long 3/8" ratchet
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Timing belt locking tool kit for Ford 1.6L EcoBoost (specialty)
- Harmonic balancer/crank pulley holding tool (specialty)
- Gasket scraper or plastic razor blade
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket or O-ring - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Motorcraft-compatible, yellow) - Qty: 2 gallons
- Timing belt - Qty: 1
- Timing belt tensioner - Qty: 1
- Timing belt idler pulley - Qty: 1
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1
- Fresh hose clamps - Qty: 2
- RTV silicone (sensor-safe) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Raise the front of the Escape with a floor jack and support it on jack stands.
- Remove the passenger front wheel using a 19mm socket.
- Remove the passenger inner fender/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.
- Plan to replace the timing belt parts together.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the coolant reservoir cap to vent, then drain coolant (use a flat-blade screwdriver if the drain uses a slotted head).
- Dispose of old coolant properly; keep away from pets and kids.
Step 2: Remove the serpentine belt
- From the passenger wheel well, rotate the belt tensioner with a serpentine belt tool or long 3/8" ratchet.
- Slip the belt off and remove it from the engine bay.
Step 3: Support the engine and remove the passenger engine mount
- Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the fenders and take the engine weight slightly.
- Remove the mount and mount bracket fasteners using a 15mm socket and 18mm socket.
- Take photos before removing brackets.
Step 4: Remove timing covers and access the timing belt
- Remove the upper and lower timing cover fasteners with a Torx bit set (T30/T40) and 8mm socket as applicable.
- Set covers aside in order so they go back the same way.
Step 5: Set cylinder #1 to Top Dead Center (TDC) and lock timing
- Rotate the crankshaft clockwise using a socket set and breaker bar on the crank bolt until timing marks/locking points align.
- Install the timing belt locking tool kit for Ford 1.6L EcoBoost (specialty).
- Locking tools are pins/plates that hold the camshafts and crankshaft in position so timing cannot slip.
Step 6: Remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) if required for cover clearance
- Hold the pulley with a harmonic balancer/crank pulley holding tool (specialty).
- Remove the crank bolt using a breaker bar and correct-size socket.
- Remove the pulley and set it aside.
Step 7: Release tension and remove the timing belt
- Relieve the tensioner using the appropriate socket or Torx bit for the tensioner design.
- Slide the timing belt off the sprockets carefully.
- Do not rotate cams/crank with belt off.
Step 8: Remove the water pump
- Place the drain pan under the pump area; more coolant will spill.
- Remove water pump bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the pump from the engine. If it’s stuck, tap gently using the handle of a ratchet.
Step 9: Clean the mating surface
- Clean the engine’s water pump mounting surface using a gasket scraper or plastic razor blade.
- Wipe clean with shop rags.
- Don’t gouge the aluminum surface.
Step 10: Install the new water pump
- Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump.
- Position the pump and start bolts by hand.
- Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket and torque wrench.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs)
Step 11: Install timing belt components and timing belt
- If replacing the tensioner and idler, remove/install them using the correct socket and tighten with a torque wrench.
- Route the new timing belt in the correct path, keeping the belt taut on the non-tensioned side.
- Set the tensioner per its indicator using the appropriate Torx bit or socket.
- Remove locking tools only after tension is set.
Step 12: Verify timing by hand-rotating the engine
- Rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns using a breaker bar and socket.
- Re-check that timing aligns and locking tools can be reinstalled smoothly.
- If alignment is off, stop and re-time before proceeding.
Step 13: Reassemble covers, mount, belt, and wheel
- Reinstall timing covers using the original fasteners with a Torx bit set and 8mm socket.
- Reinstall the passenger engine mount and bracket using 15mm socket and 18mm socket, then tighten with a torque wrench to factory specification.
- Install the serpentine belt using a serpentine belt tool.
- Reinstall splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.
- Reinstall the wheel using a 19mm socket and tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs)
Step 14: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Refill the reservoir slowly using a funnel with the correct engine coolant.
- Start the engine and set heat to HOT; let it idle and watch for leaks.
- Top off coolant as air purges; keep the level between MIN/MAX.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks around the water pump and hose connections with the engine idling.
- Confirm the heater blows hot and the temperature gauge stays normal.
- After the first drive and full cool-down, recheck coolant level and top off if needed.
- If you hear chirping/whining, recheck belt routing and tensioner operation.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $220-$520 (parts only)
You Save: $680-$1,080 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 5-8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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