How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013-2019 Nissan Sentra (DIY Repair Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, coolant refill/bleeding, and safety tips
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013-2019 Nissan Sentra (DIY Repair Guide) (Engine: Inline 4 1.8L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, torque specs, coolant refill/bleeding, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Sentra - Water Pump Replacement
On your Sentra, the water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator to prevent overheating. Replacing it involves draining coolant, removing the drive belt, unbolting the pump, cleaning the sealing surface, and refilling/bleeding the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work only on a fully cold engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and wiring; wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; catch and dispose properly.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep tools away from the cooling fan area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug nut socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension set
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- Torque wrench (5-80 Nm range)
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Flat trim clip tool
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket/O-ring (as applicable) - Qty: 1
- Nissan-compatible long-life coolant (premixed 50/50) - Qty: 2 gallons
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1 Recommended while you’re in there
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Make sure the engine is fully cold (ideally sit overnight).
- Set the HVAC to HEAT (this helps coolant flow through the heater core during bleeding).
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area before opening anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front-right and remove the wheel
- Use floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front-right jack point.
- Set the car securely on jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket to remove the wheel.
Step 2: Remove the right splash shield (fender liner access panel)
- Use a flat trim clip tool to remove the plastic clips.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any small bolts holding the shield.
- Move the shield aside to access the belt and water pump area.
Step 3: Drain the coolant
- Place the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain.
- Slowly loosen the radiator cap to release any leftover pressure.
- Open the radiator drain cock (petcock) and let coolant drain fully.
- Tip: Open slowly to avoid splashing.
Step 4: Remove the serpentine drive belt
- Use a serpentine belt tool (specialty) or 14mm socket on the belt tensioner to rotate it and release belt tension.
- Slip the belt off one pulley, then remove it fully.
- The tensioner is spring-loaded; keep fingers clear.
Step 5: Remove the water pump pulley (if equipped)
- If your pump uses a pulley, use a 10mm socket to remove the pulley bolts.
- Hold the pulley by hand while loosening bolts (they’re usually snug but manageable).
Step 6: Remove the water pump
- Put shop towels under the pump area; more coolant will spill when the pump comes off.
- Use a 10mm socket and/or 12mm socket (as equipped) to remove the water pump mounting bolts.
- Pull the pump straight off. If it sticks, tap lightly with your hand—do not pry hard against aluminum surfaces.
- Torque spec (installation): Water pump bolts: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs)
Step 7: Clean the sealing surface
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old gasket material from the engine surface.
- Wipe clean with shop towels until smooth and dry.
- Do not gouge the aluminum surface.
Step 8: Install the new water pump and gasket/O-ring
- Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump (match the old setup exactly).
- Position the pump and start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 10mm socket/12mm socket.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench (5-80 Nm range): Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall the water pump pulley (if equipped)
- Install pulley bolts by hand first.
- Use a 10mm socket to snug them evenly.
- Finish with a torque wrench (5-80 Nm range): Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 10: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt correctly around all pulleys.
- Use the serpentine belt tool (specialty) or 14mm socket to rotate the tensioner and slide the belt on.
- Double-check the belt is fully seated in every pulley groove.
Step 11: Reinstall splash shield and wheel
- Reinstall the splash shield using the flat trim clip tool and 10mm socket.
- Install the wheel and hand-start the lug nuts.
- Lower the car with the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Tighten lug nuts using a torque wrench (5-80 Nm range): Torque to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Refill and bleed the cooling system
- Close the radiator drain cock.
- Install a spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) at the radiator fill neck.
- Slowly add Nissan-compatible long-life coolant (premixed 50/50) until full.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the heater on HOT.
- As the thermostat opens, the coolant level will drop; keep topping up in the funnel.
- When you see steady heat from vents and fewer bubbles, shut the engine off and let it cool fully.
- Top off the radiator and the overflow reservoir to the MAX line using a funnel.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and inspect the water pump area for leaks with a flashlight.
- Watch the temperature gauge during a 10-15 minute test drive; it should stay normal.
- After the engine fully cools, recheck the coolant level in the reservoir and top off if needed.
- Listen for belt squeal; if present, recheck belt routing and seating.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $90-$240 (parts only)
You Save: $360-$610 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















