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2015 Ford Escape
2013 - 2019 Ford Escape
Inline 4 2.5L
Compatible with more variants.
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  • Ford Escape
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  • 2013 to 2019
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  • How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (DIY Step-by-Step) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
How to Replace Engine Water Pump 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L L4

How to Replace Engine Water Pump 2013-2019 Ford Escape 2.0L L4

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
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How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (DIY Step-by-Step) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Tools, parts list, torque specs, coolant refill/bleed steps, and safety tips to prevent leaks and overheating

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013-2019 Ford Escape (DIY Step-by-Step) (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)

Tools, parts list, torque specs, coolant refill/bleed steps, and safety tips to prevent leaks and overheating for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Escape - Water Pump Replacement

On your Escape, the water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. When it leaks or the bearing wears out, you can get coolant loss, overheating, or a whining/grinding noise. This job is very doable at home, but expect some tight access and coolant cleanup.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap hot; let the engine cool completely.
  • ⚠️ Support the Escape with jack stands before working under it.
  • ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and pulleys; it can cause slipping and noise.
  • ⚠️ Clean spills immediately; coolant is toxic to pets and people.
  • Disconnecting the battery is not required for this repair, but keep hands/tools clear of the radiator fan area.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
  • Funnel
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 3/8" torque wrench (inch-lb capable)
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Plastic scraper
  • Shop rags

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Water pump - Qty: 1
  • Water pump gasket / O-ring (as supplied with pump) - Qty: 1
  • Engine coolant (Ford-spec OAT coolant) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (as needed)
  • Distilled water (if using концентрated coolant) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
  • Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 (optional if cracked/glazed)

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool fully (upper radiator hose should feel cool).
  • Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir (degas bottle) cap to release any leftover pressure.
  • Raise the front-right corner with a floor jack and support with jack stands.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the right-front wheel area covers for access

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) to safely support the Escape.
  • Remove the lower splash shield and/or right-front inner fender access panel using an 8mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
  • Bag clips/bolts by location to stay organized.

Step 2: Drain the coolant

  • Place a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
  • Open the drain (petcock) with a flat-blade screwdriver (if equipped), or remove the lower hose clamp using hose clamp pliers and carefully pull the hose free.
  • Let coolant fully drain, then close the petcock or reinstall the hose.

Step 3: Remove the serpentine belt

  • From the wheel-well access, rotate the belt tensioner using a serpentine belt tool (specialty) or 1/2" breaker bar.
  • Slip the belt off one smooth pulley first, then release tension slowly.
  • If reusing the belt, take a photo of belt routing before removal.

Step 4: Remove the water pump pulley

  • Hold the pulley from turning by keeping light tension on the belt (if still routed) or by hand, then remove the pulley bolts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Remove the pulley and set it aside.
  • During reassembly: Torque the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Disconnect hoses from the water pump

  • Use hose clamp pliers to move the spring clamps back.
  • Twist hoses gently by hand to break them loose, then pull off the pump.
  • Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) and shop rags.

Step 6: Remove the water pump

  • Remove the water pump mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
  • Pull the pump straight off. If it sticks, tap lightly by hand—do not pry hard on aluminum sealing surfaces.

Step 7: Clean the sealing surface

  • Use a plastic scraper and shop rags to clean old gasket material and residue from the engine surface.
  • Make sure no debris falls into open coolant passages.
  • Clean and dry surfaces prevent new leaks.

Step 8: Install the new water pump and gasket

  • Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump (follow how it’s supplied).
  • Position the pump and start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten bolts evenly using a 10mm socket, then final tighten with a 3/8" torque wrench (inch-lb capable).
  • Torque the water pump bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall the pulley and serpentine belt

  • Reinstall the pulley and snug bolts with a 10mm socket.
  • Torque the water pump pulley bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) using a 3/8" torque wrench (inch-lb capable).
  • Route the belt correctly, rotate the tensioner with a serpentine belt tool (specialty), and slip the belt onto the last pulley.
  • Double-check the belt is seated in every ribbed pulley groove.

Step 10: Reinstall covers and lower the vehicle

  • Reinstall the splash shield/inner fender panel using an 8mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
  • Lower the Escape safely using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 11: Refill and bleed the cooling system

  • Refill coolant at the reservoir using a funnel (use correct Ford-spec OAT coolant mix).
  • Start the engine and set heat to HOT and fan to medium.
  • Let it idle and watch the coolant level; top off as it drops.
  • When the engine reaches operating temp and the heat is steady, shut it off and let it cool fully, then recheck level and top off to the MAX line.

✅ After Repair

  • Inspect for leaks around the water pump and hose connections with the engine running.
  • Verify the heater blows hot air (a quick sign coolant is circulating).
  • After your first drive, let it cool and recheck coolant level again; top off if needed.
  • Listen for belt squeal; if present, recheck belt seating on pulleys.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $560-$830 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Guide for Engine Water Pump replace for these Ford vehicles

Year Make ModelSub ModelEngineBody Style
2019 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.5L-
2019 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2018 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.5L-
2018 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2017 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.5L-
2017 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2016 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.5L-
2016 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2015 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.5L-
2015 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2014 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.5L-
2014 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
2013 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.5L-
2013 Ford Escape-Inline 4 2.0L-
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