How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step coolant pump guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2013-2018 Nissan Altima (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step coolant pump guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Water Pump Replacement
Replacing the water pump on your Altima involves draining the cooling system, removing the drive belt, removing the pump from the front of the engine, and refilling/bleeding the coolant. The water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator; if it leaks, gets noisy, or stops moving coolant properly, the engine can overheat.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap or coolant reservoir cap when the engine is hot. Hot coolant can spray out and burn you.
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before starting. The cooling system is pressurized when hot.
- ⚠️ Support your Altima only with jack stands. A floor jack lifts the car, but jack stands safely hold it up.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the belt and pulleys.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant away from children and pets. It is poisonous and tastes sweet.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive extension set
- Torque wrench rated 5-80 Nm
- Serpentine belt tool (specialty)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Plastic gasket scraper
- Drain pan 10-quart minimum
- Cooling system spill-free funnel (specialty)
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gasket/O-ring - Qty: 1
- Nissan-compatible blue long-life coolant premix 50/50 - Qty: 2 gallons
- Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground and let the engine cool fully.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. The negative cable is usually marked with a minus symbol.
- Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
- Remove the right front wheel area splash shield to access the belt and water pump area.
- Set the cabin temperature to full hot before draining coolant. This helps coolant move through the heater circuit during refill.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Secure the Vehicle
- Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Altima at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side pinch welds.
- Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
- Wear safety glasses before working under the vehicle.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal nut.
- Move the negative battery cable away from the battery post.
- Keep the cable from springing back.
Step 3: Remove the Right Front Splash Shield
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the plastic clips from the right front inner splash shield.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove any lower splash shield bolts.
- Pull the splash shield down and out of the work area.
- A splash shield is the plastic panel that blocks road water and dirt from the belt area.
Step 4: Drain the Coolant
- Place a 10-quart drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Slowly remove the coolant reservoir cap by hand only after the engine is fully cold.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed to open the radiator drain plug carefully.
- Drain the coolant into the pan.
- Close the radiator drain plug by hand, then snug it gently with a flat-blade screwdriver if needed. Do not overtighten plastic drain plugs.
Step 5: Remove the Serpentine Drive Belt
- Take a photo of the belt routing before removal.
- Use a serpentine belt tool on the belt tensioner. The belt tensioner is a spring-loaded arm that keeps the belt tight.
- Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the pulleys by hand.
- Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position.
- A belt photo saves mistakes later.
Step 6: Remove the Water Pump Pulley
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
- If the pulley spins, hold it carefully by hand with gloves while loosening the bolts.
- Remove the pulley bolts and take off the pulley.
- Set the pulley aside in the same orientation it came off.
Step 7: Remove the Water Pump
- Place the drain pan under the water pump because more coolant may spill.
- Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to remove the water pump mounting bolts.
- Note the bolt locations if they are different lengths.
- Pull the water pump straight away from the engine.
- If it is stuck, gently tap the pump body by hand or use a plastic gasket scraper to work around the edge.
- Do not pry hard against the aluminum engine surface.
Step 8: Clean the Mounting Surface
- Use a plastic gasket scraper to clean the water pump mounting surface.
- Wipe the area clean with a lint-free rag.
- Do not gouge or scratch the aluminum surface.
- A gasket surface is the flat sealing area where the pump meets the engine.
Step 9: Install the New Water Pump
- Install the new water pump gasket/O-ring onto the new water pump.
- Position the new water pump squarely against the engine.
- Start all mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to snug the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Use a torque wrench rated 5-80 Nm to tighten the water pump bolts to Torque to 24 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reinstall the Water Pump Pulley
- Place the water pump pulley back onto the pump hub.
- Start the pulley bolts by hand.
- Use a 10mm socket to snug the pulley bolts evenly.
- Use a torque wrench rated 5-80 Nm to tighten the pulley bolts to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 11: Install the Serpentine Drive Belt
- Route the new serpentine drive belt around the pulleys using your belt-routing photo.
- Use the serpentine belt tool to rotate the tensioner.
- Slide the belt over the final pulley by hand.
- Slowly release the tensioner.
- Check that the belt ribs sit fully inside every pulley groove.
- Misaligned belts shred quickly.
Step 12: Reinstall the Splash Shield
- Position the right front splash shield back into place.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or your fingers to reinstall the plastic clips.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield bolts.
- Snug the splash shield bolts gently; they thread into plastic retainers.
Step 13: Refill the Cooling System
- Lower your Altima back to level ground using the floor jack and jack stands.
- Install a cooling system spill-free funnel at the coolant reservoir opening.
- Fill with Nissan-compatible blue long-life coolant premix 50/50 until the reservoir reaches the full mark.
- A spill-free funnel helps remove trapped air while keeping coolant from overflowing.
Step 14: Bleed Air from the Cooling System
- Reconnect the negative battery cable and use a 10mm socket to snug the terminal nut.
- Start the engine and let it idle with the spill-free funnel installed.
- Set the heater to full hot and fan to low.
- Watch the coolant level in the funnel and add coolant as the level drops.
- Let the engine warm up until the radiator fans cycle on.
- Look for steady cabin heat from the vents.
- Squeeze the upper radiator hose gently with gloves to help move trapped air.
- When bubbling stops, shut the engine off and let it cool.
Step 15: Final Coolant Level Check
- After the engine cools, remove the spill-free funnel.
- Top off the coolant reservoir to the correct cold level mark.
- Install the coolant reservoir cap by hand.
- Use a flashlight to inspect around the water pump for leaks.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and watch the temperature gauge. It should stay in the normal range.
- Check for coolant leaks around the water pump, radiator drain plug, and lower splash shield area.
- Take a short test drive, then let the engine cool completely.
- Recheck the coolant level after the first full heat cycle and top off if needed.
- If the heater blows cold at idle or the temperature gauge rises, air may still be trapped in the system.
- Dispose of old coolant at a recycling center or repair shop. Do not pour it on the ground or into a drain.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $330-$490 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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