🔧 Challenger - Water Pump Replacement

The water pump circulates coolant through your engine and radiator. When it leaks or the bearing fails, you can get overheating, coolant loss, or a grinding noise. Replacing it restores proper cooling and prevents serious engine damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system.
• ⚠️ Never remove the coolant pressure cap when hot (burn risk).
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the electric cooling fan; it can start unexpectedly.
• ⚠️ Clean spilled coolant immediately; it’s toxic to people and pets.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is recommended if your hands will be near the fan wiring.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
• Funnel
• Shop towels
• Trim clip remover
• Flathead screwdriver
• Ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 8mm socket
• Extension set (3" and 6")
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Plastic gasket scraper

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Water pump - Qty: 1
• Water pump gasket/O-ring (if not included with pump) - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (Mopar OAT 50/50 premix or equivalent) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Serpentine belt (recommended if worn/cracked) - Qty: 1
• Hose clamps (as needed) - Qty: 1-4

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool until the upper radiator hose is cool to the touch.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and support it on jack stands.
• Place a drain pan under the radiator area.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip remover and 8mm socket to remove the fasteners.
• Set the shield and hardware aside in a tray.

Step 2: Drain the coolant

• Slowly loosen the coolant pressure cap on the reservoir by hand to relieve any remaining pressure.
• Open the radiator drain (petcock) and drain into your drain pan. Use a flathead screwdriver only if your style of drain requires it.
• Save coolant only if it’s clean and fresh.

Step 3: Remove the air intake ducting (as needed for access)

• Loosen the clamps using an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver.
• Lift the ducting out and set it aside.

Step 4: Remove the electric fan/shroud assembly (for working room)

• Unplug the fan electrical connector(s) by hand (press the lock tab, then pull).
• Remove the fan/shroud fasteners using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the fan/shroud up and out carefully (watch the radiator fins).

Step 5: Remove the serpentine belt

• Put a 15mm socket on the belt tensioner bolt.
• Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension, then slip the belt off one pulley.
• Slowly release the tensioner back to rest, then remove the belt.

Step 6: Disconnect hoses at the water pump

• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the spring clamp(s) and slide them back on the hose.
• Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off.
• Catch remaining coolant with the drain pan and use shop towels to keep the area clean.

Step 7: Remove the water pump mounting bolts

• Remove the water pump bolts using a 13mm socket, ratchet, and extensions.
• Support the pump with one hand as the last bolts come out.
• Pull the water pump straight off the timing cover.

Step 8: Clean the sealing surface

• Use a plastic gasket scraper to clean the timing cover surface.
• Wipe clean with shop towels.
• No gouges—aluminum scratches can cause leaks.

Step 9: Install the new water pump

• Install the new gasket/O-ring onto the new pump (make sure it’s fully seated).
• Position the pump and start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten the water pump bolts evenly using a 13mm socket.
• Final tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect hoses

• Push hoses fully onto the fittings.
• Reposition clamps using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• Double-check clamps are past the bead on each fitting.

Step 11: Reinstall the serpentine belt

• Route the belt correctly over all pulleys (use the underhood belt routing diagram).
• Rotate the tensioner with a 15mm socket, slip the belt on, then release slowly.

Step 12: Reinstall fan/shroud and intake ducting

• Lower the fan/shroud into place and install fasteners using a 10mm socket.
• Reconnect the fan electrical connector(s) by hand until they click.
• Reinstall intake ducting and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver.

Step 13: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the car

• Reinstall the splash shield using a trim clip remover and 8mm socket.
• Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.

Step 14: Refill and bleed the cooling system

• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Fill the reservoir with Mopar OAT 50/50 premix using a funnel until it reaches the MAX line.
• Start the engine and set the heater to HOT with the fan on LOW.
• Let it idle and watch engine temperature; top off the reservoir as the level drops.
• When warm, check for leaks around the pump and hoses.

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✅ After Repair

• Let the engine cool completely, then recheck the coolant level and top off to the MAX line.
• Inspect for leaks after your first short drive (5-10 minutes) using a flashlight.
• Verify the heater blows hot and the temperature gauge stays normal.
• Dispose of old coolant properly (most parts stores accept waste coolant).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$380 (parts only)

You Save: $490-$670 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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