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2013 Toyota Highlander
2009 - 2013 Toyota Highlander
Inline 4 2.7L
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2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L water pump replacement (without engine removal)

2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L water pump replacement (without engine removal)

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10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
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How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2009-2013 Toyota Highlander (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, coolant bleeding, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2009-2013 Toyota Highlander (Engine: Inline 4 2.7L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, coolant bleeding, torque specs, and safety tips for 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Water Pump Replacement

Replacing the water pump on your Highlander means draining the cooling system, removing the drive belt and pump pulley, then installing a new pump with a fresh gasket. The water pump circulates coolant through the engine, so a leaking or noisy pump should be replaced before it causes overheating.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work only on a completely cool engine. Hot coolant can cause serious burns.
  • ⚠️ Keep coolant away from pets and children. It is poisonous and tastes sweet.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the belt and pulleys.
  • ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if raising it. Never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Do not run the engine with the radiator cap removed once coolant starts getting hot.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 12mm socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 19mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 1/2-inch breaker bar
  • Torque wrench 5-80 ft-lbs
  • Serpentine belt tool 14mm
  • Flat blade screwdriver
  • Plastic trim clip removal tool
  • Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
  • Coolant funnel kit
  • Gasket scraper plastic
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine water pump - Qty: 1
  • Water pump gasket - Qty: 1
  • Toyota-compatible pink long-life coolant premix - Qty: 2 gallons
  • Serpentine drive belt - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Highlander on level ground and set the parking brake.
  • 🧊 Let the engine cool for at least 3-4 hours before opening the cooling system.
  • 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable, then move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
  • 🚗 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front.
  • 💧 A coolant funnel kit helps remove air pockets from the cooling system. Air pockets can cause overheating after the repair.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

  • Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Highlander at the front center jack point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front support points.
  • Gently lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and shake it lightly to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

  • Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
  • Use a 10mm socket to remove the lower splash shield bolts.
  • Use a plastic trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic retainers.
  • Set the splash shield aside.
  • Keep clips in a cup.

Step 3: Drain the Coolant

  • Place a drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the radiator drain area.
  • Slowly remove the radiator cap by hand only if the engine is fully cool.
  • Use a flat blade screwdriver to open the radiator drain cock at the bottom of the radiator.
  • Let the coolant drain completely into the pan.
  • Close the drain cock gently with the flat blade screwdriver after draining.
  • Do not overtighten the plastic drain cock.

Step 4: Remove the Serpentine Drive Belt

  • The serpentine belt is the long rubber belt that turns the alternator, A/C compressor, and water pump.
  • Use a 14mm serpentine belt tool or 14mm socket with a breaker bar on the belt tensioner.
  • Rotate the tensioner to release belt tension.
  • Slide the belt off the water pump pulley by hand.
  • Slowly release the tensioner back to its resting position.
  • Remove the belt from the engine bay.
  • Take a belt-route photo first.

Step 5: Remove the Water Pump Pulley

  • Use a 10mm socket to loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
  • If the pulley spins, hold the pulley steady by hand with gloves or apply light belt pressure while loosening.
  • Remove the pulley bolts and pull the pulley off the water pump.
  • Set the bolts and pulley aside in order.

Step 6: Remove the Water Pump

  • Place the drain pan under the water pump area because more coolant may spill.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove the water pump mounting bolts.
  • Note bolt locations. Some bolts may be different lengths.
  • Gently tap or wiggle the water pump by hand to break it loose.
  • Remove the water pump and old gasket from the engine.
  • Do not pry hard against the aluminum engine surface.

Step 7: Clean the Mounting Surface

  • The mounting surface is the flat engine surface where the pump gasket seals.
  • Use a plastic gasket scraper to remove old gasket material.
  • Use brake cleaner spray on a shop towel to wipe the surface clean.
  • Do not spray directly into open coolant passages.
  • Make sure the surface is smooth, clean, and dry.
  • Do not use metal scrapers.

Step 8: Install the New Water Pump

  • Position the new water pump gasket on the new water pump.
  • Install the water pump onto the engine by hand.
  • Start all mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to snug the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the water pump bolts to Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) unless the replacement pump instructions specify otherwise.
  • Do not overtighten. The engine cover area is aluminum and threads can strip.

Step 9: Reinstall the Water Pump Pulley

  • Place the pulley onto the new water pump.
  • Start the pulley bolts by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket to snug the pulley bolts evenly.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten the pulley bolts to Torque to 21 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Install the Serpentine Drive Belt

  • Route the serpentine belt around the pulleys using your belt-route photo.
  • Use the 14mm serpentine belt tool or 14mm socket with breaker bar to rotate the tensioner.
  • Slide the belt over the final pulley by hand.
  • Slowly release the tensioner.
  • Check that the belt ribs sit fully inside every pulley groove.
  • If the old belt is cracked, glazed, or oil-soaked, install the new serpentine drive belt.

Step 11: Reinstall the Lower Splash Shield

  • Use the plastic trim clip removal tool to reinstall plastic retainers by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the splash shield bolts.
  • Use a torque wrench to tighten small splash shield bolts to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 12: Refill the Cooling System

  • Make sure the radiator drain cock is closed.
  • Install a coolant funnel kit into the radiator fill neck.
  • Pour Toyota-compatible pink long-life coolant premix into the funnel slowly.
  • Fill until coolant stays visible in the funnel.
  • Fill the overflow reservoir to the “FULL” line by hand.

Step 13: Bleed Air From the Cooling System

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
  • Start the engine with the coolant funnel still installed.
  • Set the heater controls to full hot and low fan speed.
  • Let the engine idle while watching the coolant level in the funnel.
  • Add coolant as the level drops.
  • When the upper radiator hose becomes hot and heater air is warm, the thermostat has opened.
  • Squeeze the upper radiator hose carefully with gloves to help move small air bubbles.
  • Turn the engine off once bubbles stop appearing.

Step 14: Final Coolant Level Check

  • Let the engine cool until the radiator is safe to touch.
  • Remove the coolant funnel kit.
  • Install the radiator cap by hand.
  • Check the overflow reservoir and top it to the “FULL” line if needed.
  • Lower your Highlander from the jack stands using the floor jack.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start the engine and inspect around the water pump for leaks.
  • ✅ Watch the temperature gauge during the first full warm-up. It should stay in the normal range.
  • ✅ Confirm the cabin heater blows warm air. No heat can mean trapped air in the cooling system.
  • ✅ After the first drive, let the engine cool completely and recheck the coolant reservoir level.
  • ✅ Recheck for drips under the vehicle the next morning.
  • ✅ Dispose of old coolant properly at an auto parts store or recycling center. Do not pour it on the ground or into drains.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $550-$900 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$620 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.


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