How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2007-2013 GMC Sierra 1500 (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) (Trim: WT | Engine: V8 5.3L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs to stop coolant leaks and fix overheating
How to Replace the Water Pump on a 2007-2013 GMC Sierra 1500 (Step-by-Step DIY Guide) (Trim: WT | Engine: V8 5.3L)
Tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs to stop coolant leaks and fix overheating for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
š§ Sierra 1500 - Water Pump Replacement
The water pump circulates coolant through the engine and radiator. If itās leaking, making bearing noise, or the engine is overheating, replacing the pump restores proper cooling and prevents engine damage.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Never open the cooling system hot; wait until fully cool.
- ā ļø Coolant is toxicākeep away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
- ā ļø Support the truck with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a jack.
- ā ļø Keep hands/tools clear of the fan and belt area.
- ā ļø Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent accidental cranking.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- Extension set (3" and 6")
- Serpentine belt tool or 1/2" drive long-handled ratchet
- Fan clutch wrench set (specialty)
- Fan clutch holding tool (specialty)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Gasket scraper or plastic razor scraper
- Shop rags
- Funnel
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Water pump - Qty: 1
- Water pump gaskets - Qty: 1 set
- Engine coolant (Dex-Cool compatible) 50/50 premix - Qty: 3-4 gallons
- Upper radiator hose (optional if swollen/soft/cracked) - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose (optional if swollen/soft/cracked) - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps (optional if original clamps are weak) - Qty: 2-4
- Serpentine belt (optional if cracked/glazed) - Qty: 1
š Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (upper radiator hose should feel cool).
- Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
- Place a drain pan under the radiator area.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Drain the coolant
- Remove the coolant reservoir cap (or radiator cap if equipped) slowly by hand.
- Open the radiator drain petcock using a flat-blade screwdriver and drain into a drain pan.
- If the drain is stuck or slow, you can remove the lower radiator hose clamp using hose clamp pliers (specialty) and carefully twist/pull the hose off.
- Tip: Save coolant only if itās clean and new.
Step 2: Remove the air intake duct (to create working room)
- Loosen the hose clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Remove the duct and set it aside.
Step 3: Remove the fan shroud and mechanical fan/clutch
- Remove the upper fan shroud fasteners with a 10mm socket.
- Use a fan clutch holding tool (specialty) to keep the pulley from turning.
- Use a fan clutch wrench set (specialty) to loosen the fan clutch nut and remove the fan/clutch assembly.
- Lift the shroud and fan/clutch out carefully (watch the radiator fins).
- Fan clutch tools are made for this; avoid hammering.
Step 4: Remove the serpentine belt
- Rotate the belt tensioner using a serpentine belt tool or 1/2" drive long-handled ratchet.
- Slip the belt off one pulley and remove it from the front of the engine.
- If you donāt have a belt routing sticker, take a clear photo before removal.
Step 5: Remove the water pump pulley
- Hold the pulley by hand and remove the pulley bolts using a 10mm socket.
- Remove the pulley and set it aside.
Step 6: Disconnect hoses from the water pump
- Release hose clamps using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
- Twist hoses to break them free, then pull them off the pump.
- Use shop rags to catch remaining coolant.
Step 7: Remove the water pump
- Remove the water pump bolts using a 10mm socket and 15mm socket (bolt head sizes can vary by bracket/fastener location).
- Keep track of bolt locations (some are different lengths).
- Pull the water pump straight off the engine.
Step 8: Clean the gasket surfaces
- Use a gasket scraper or plastic razor scraper to remove old gasket material from the engine surface.
- Wipe clean with shop rags.
- Do not gouge the aluminum sealing surface.
Step 9: Install the new water pump and gaskets
- Place the new gaskets onto the new pump (match orientation exactly).
- Position the pump on the engine and hand-thread all bolts.
- Tighten bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern using a 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Final tighten with a torque wrench:
- For M8 bolts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
- For M10 bolts: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
- Tip: Start all bolts firstādonāt force threads.
Step 10: Reinstall the water pump pulley
- Install the pulley and hand-start the bolts.
- Tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Snug them evenly; fully tightening is easiest once the belt is on to resist rotation.
Step 11: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt correctly around all pulleys.
- Rotate the tensioner using the serpentine belt tool or 1/2" drive long-handled ratchet and slip the belt into place.
- Double-check the belt is seated in every pulley groove.
Step 12: Reinstall the fan/clutch and shroud
- Carefully lower the shroud and fan/clutch back into place.
- Thread the fan clutch onto the water pump hub by hand first.
- Snug using the fan clutch wrench set (specialty) and fan clutch holding tool (specialty).
- Reinstall shroud bolts using a 10mm socket.
Step 13: Reinstall the intake duct and reconnect the battery
- Install the intake duct and tighten clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
Step 14: Refill coolant and bleed out air
- Close the radiator drain petcock using a flat-blade screwdriver.
- Refill with Dex-Cool compatible 50/50 premix using a funnel.
- Set heater to full HOT inside the cab.
- Start the engine and let it idle; watch temperature and coolant level.
- As the thermostat opens, coolant level may dropātop off as needed.
- Check for leaks around the water pump and hoses.
ā After Repair
- Let the engine reach normal operating temperature and verify steady heat from the vents.
- Shut off, let cool fully, then recheck coolant level and top off if needed.
- Inspect for leaks again after the first short drive.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (do not pour on the ground).
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)
You Save: $530-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
šÆ Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Water Pump replace for these GMC vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2012 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2010 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2009 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2008 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLE | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | SLT | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | WT | V8 5.3L | - |


















