🔧 Durango - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, install a new one with the correct clamps, then refill and bleed the cooling system so it doesn’t trap air.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: you’re replacing the upper radiator hose (most common).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; scald risk.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you lift it; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/clothing away from the cooling fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Flathead screwdriver
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Slip-joint pliers
• Pick tool (angled) (specialty)
• Razor blade or hose cutter
• Trim clip removal tool
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 1/4" drive extension (6")
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)
• Funnel
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
• Engine coolant (Mopar OAT 50/50, purple) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely (cold to the touch) before opening the cooling system.
• Place a drain pan under the front of the engine bay (coolant will spill when the hose comes off).
• If you need more room, raise the front and set it on jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove covers for access

• Remove any upper engine cover or air inlet pieces blocking the hose using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• If there’s a hose clamp on the air duct, loosen it with an 8mm socket.

Step 2: Relieve pressure (cold engine only)

• Slowly loosen the coolant pressure cap using a shop towel to protect your hand.
• If you hear pressure release, stop and wait until it fully vents, then remove the cap.

Step 3: Drain enough coolant to drop the level

• Position the drain pan under the lower radiator area.
• If you can reach the radiator drain, open it carefully using a flathead screwdriver (only a few turns) and drain about 1-2 quarts.
• If you can’t access the drain easily, you can skip this and expect more spill when the hose comes off.

Step 4: Remove the hose clamps

• At the radiator end of the hose, compress the factory spring clamp with hose clamp pliers (specialty) and slide it back on the hose.
• Repeat at the engine end of the hose.
• Spring clamps keep even pressure—reuse only if strong.

Step 5: Break the hose loose and remove it

• Twist the hose by hand to break it free (do not pry hard on plastic fittings).
• If it’s stuck, gently lift the edge with an angled pick tool (specialty) to let coolant seep in and release the seal.
• Pull the hose off and aim it into the drain pan.
• If the hose is seized and won’t come off safely, cut it lengthwise with a razor blade or hose cutter and peel it off.

Step 6: Inspect and clean the fittings

• Wipe the radiator neck and engine outlet clean with shop towels.
• Check for cracks, broken plastic, or heavy corrosion. If a fitting is damaged, stop—installing a new hose won’t seal.

Step 7: Install the new radiator hose

• Slide new clamps onto the hose before installing it using slip-joint pliers (if needed).
• Push the hose fully onto the radiator neck until it bottoms out by hand.
• Push the other end fully onto the engine outlet by hand.
• Reposition clamps so they sit behind the raised “bead” on each fitting using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• If using worm-gear clamps, tighten with an 8mm socket to Torque to 35 in-lbs (4.0 Nm).

Step 8: Reinstall any parts removed

• Reinstall air ducting/engine covers using a 10mm socket.
• Tighten any intake clamps using an 8mm socket to Torque to 30 in-lbs (3.4 Nm).

Step 9: Refill coolant

• Using a funnel, refill the coolant reservoir with Mopar OAT 50/50 (purple).
• If you drained straight coolant (not pre-mix), top off using distilled water as needed to keep a 50/50 mix.

Step 10: Bleed air from the cooling system

• Start the engine and set the heater to MAX HEAT and the fan to medium.
• Let it idle until the temperature gauge reaches normal operating range.
• Watch the coolant level in the reservoir and add as needed using a funnel.
• When the upper hose becomes hot (thermostat opened), lightly rev to ~2,000 rpm for 10 seconds a few times to help purge air.
• Shut the engine off, let it cool fully, then recheck and top off to the “FULL COLD” line.

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✅ After Repair

• Inspect both hose ends for seepage while idling and after a short drive.
• Verify the heater blows hot air (a quick check that coolant is circulating).
• Recheck coolant level the next morning when cold and top off if needed.
• Dispose of old coolant properly—most parts stores accept waste coolant.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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