How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Radiator Hose Replacement
On your Grand Cherokee, the radiator hoses carry coolant between the radiator and the engine. Replacing a leaking, swollen, or cracked hose is straightforward, but you must work on a fully cool engine to avoid a dangerous hot-coolant spray.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work when the engine is completely cold; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/tools away from the electric cooling fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Clean spills immediately; coolant is toxic to pets and people.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Slip-joint pliers
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool set
- Trim clip removal tool
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" extension (6")
- Funnel (spill-free type)
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose (upper or lower) - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Coolant (Mopar OAT 50/50 premix) - Qty: 2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally 3+ hours).
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap to relieve any residual pressure, then reinstall it loosely while you set up. Use shop rags for grip.
- If you’re doing the lower hose, plan to raise the front and support it on jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify which hose you’re replacing
- Open the hood and locate the two main hoses: the upper hose runs to the top area of the radiator, and the lower hose runs to the bottom area of the radiator.
- Look closely at each end to identify the connection type:
- Spring clamp: a round clamp you squeeze with hose clamp pliers (specialty) or slip-joint pliers.
- Screw clamp: a clamp with a screw you loosen/tighten with a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket.
- Take a photo before you remove anything.
Step 2: Make room for access (upper hose area)
- If needed, loosen the air intake duct clamps using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then move the duct aside.
- If you remove any small brackets or retainers, use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet as required.
- Torque: If you removed any 10mm fasteners, Torque to the same snugness they had originally (hose replacement itself typically has no bolt torque points).
Step 3: Position the drain pan and prepare to catch coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator end of the hose you’re removing.
- Lay shop rags under the connection to control splash.
Step 4: Release the clamp at the radiator end
- For a spring clamp: squeeze the clamp ears with hose clamp pliers (specialty) and slide the clamp back on the hose about 2 inches.
- For a screw clamp: loosen it with a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket until it spins freely, then slide it back.
- Don’t remove the clamp from the hose yet.
Step 5: Break the hose free (without cracking fittings)
- Twist the hose end back and forth by hand to break it loose.
- If it’s stuck, carefully work the edge with a pick tool to lift the hose off the nipple a little at a time.
- Pull the hose off and let coolant drain into the drain pan.
- Important: Do not pry hard against plastic radiator necks; they can crack.
Step 6: Release the clamp and remove the hose at the engine end
- Repeat the clamp release using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or an 8mm socket/flathead screwdriver (depending on clamp type).
- Twist and pull the hose off the engine-side fitting and remove the hose from the vehicle.
Step 7: Prep the fittings and compare parts
- Wipe both fittings clean with shop rags.
- Compare the old hose and new hose side-by-side to confirm same bends, diameter, and length.
- If the inside of the old hose left rubber stuck on the fitting, gently remove it with a pick tool and wipe clean.
Step 8: Install the new hose
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose before installing it.
- Push the hose fully onto the engine-side fitting first.
- Position the clamp:
- Spring clamp: use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move it into the original clamping location.
- Screw clamp: tighten with a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket until firmly snug.
- Install the radiator-side end the same way, ensuring the hose is fully seated and routed like the original.
- Torque: Spring clamps are self-tensioning (no torque spec). For screw clamps, tighten only until the hose cannot rotate by hand.
Step 9: Reinstall anything removed for access
- Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten the clamps using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Reinstall any brackets/retainers using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
Step 10: Refill coolant and purge trapped air
- Use a funnel (spill-free type) to fill the coolant reservoir with Mopar OAT 50/50 premix up to the MAX line.
- Start the engine and set the HVAC to HOT with the fan on low (this helps coolant circulate through the heater core).
- Let the engine idle and watch the temperature gauge. As the engine warms up, top off as needed.
- Once warm, shut the engine off, let it cool fully, then recheck and adjust the level again.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks at both ends of the new hose with the engine idling and again after a short drive.
- Verify cabin heat works normally; weak heat can mean air is still trapped.
- After the next cold soak (overnight is best), recheck coolant level and top off to the MAX line.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (do not dump).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$320 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
Before I tailor the steps exactly to your Grand Cherokee, answer these two quick questions: are you replacing the upper or lower radiator hose, and do you have spring clamps or screw clamps on the hose ends?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















