How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2018-2020 GMC Terrain (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step coolant drain, hose clamp removal, refill, and air-bleeding tips to prevent leaks and overheating
How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2018-2020 GMC Terrain (Engine: Inline 4 2.0L)
Step-by-step coolant drain, hose clamp removal, refill, and air-bleeding tips to prevent leaks and overheating for 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Terrain - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose means removing the leaking/soft hose and installing a new one, then refilling and “burping” (purging air from) the cooling system. On your Terrain, the most important part is doing it only when the engine is fully cold and making sure the hose clamps seal correctly to prevent leaks and overheating.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant tank when hot—pressurized coolant can spray and burn.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands before working underneath; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts/electrical connectors; wipe spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Collect and dispose of coolant properly; it’s toxic to people and pets.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Coolant spill-free funnel kit (specialty)
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Channel-lock pliers
- Pick tool (hose removal pick)
- Flathead screwdriver
- 7mm nut driver
- 8mm nut driver
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench (ft-lbs)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Shop towels
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose (upper) - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose (lower) - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps (OEM-style) - Qty: 2-4
- DEX-COOL coolant (50/50 premix) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool fully (ideally sit overnight).
- Slowly loosen the coolant surge tank cap to make sure there’s no pressure, then reinstall it loosely until you’re ready to drain.
- Decide which hose you’re replacing: upper hose (top of radiator to engine) or lower hose (bottom of radiator to engine). If you’re not sure, replace the one that’s wet/leaking.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm which hose you’re changing
- Use a work light to locate the leak or swelling.
- Upper hose: runs from the top radiator outlet to the engine/thermostat area.
- Lower hose: runs from the bottom radiator outlet downward to the engine area (usually requires access from below).
Step 2: Raise the front (recommended for lower hose)
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the front jacking point.
- Set it onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and keep wheel chocks in place.
Step 3: Remove any lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip removal tool to pop plastic clips.
- Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet to remove any bolts.
- Set hardware aside in a small tray.
Step 4: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level
- Place a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator area.
- Slowly remove the surge tank cap using your hands and nitrile gloves.
- Drain coolant from the radiator drain (if accessible) or by loosening the lower hose clamp slightly (controlled drain).
- Tip: draining less saves time refilling.
Step 5: Release the hose clamps
- If you have spring clamps: use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to squeeze the clamp and slide it back on the hose.
- If you have worm-gear clamps: use a 7mm nut driver or 8mm nut driver to loosen the clamp and slide it back.
- Wipe the area with shop towels to keep dirt out.
Step 6: Remove the old hose (don’t pry hard on the radiator)
- Twist the hose by hand first to break it free.
- If stuck, use a pick tool (hose removal pick) to gently separate the hose from the fitting (a “fitting” is the metal/plastic neck the hose slides onto).
- Use channel-lock pliers only if needed, and squeeze lightly to avoid crushing the radiator neck.
- Direct any remaining coolant into the drain pan.
Step 7: Prep the sealing surfaces
- Use shop towels to clean the radiator/engine hose necks until smooth and dry.
- Do not sand aggressively—just remove crusty buildup and old coolant residue.
Step 8: Install the new hose and clamps
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose first (use your hands).
- Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
- Position clamps behind the raised “bead” on the fitting (the bead is the small ridge that keeps the hose from sliding off).
- Spring clamp: use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move the clamp into position.
- Worm clamp: tighten using a 7mm nut driver or 8mm nut driver until snug (do not crush the plastic neck).
Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield
- Reinstall bolts using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
- Snug fasteners with a torque wrench (ft-lbs) if you have specs available; otherwise snug firmly without stripping plastic.
- Reinstall clips using a trim clip removal tool to line them up, then press by hand.
Step 10: Refill coolant
- Use a funnel or coolant spill-free funnel kit (specialty) at the surge tank.
- Fill with DEX-COOL coolant (50/50 premix) to the proper “COLD” mark.
- If using concentrate coolant, mix with distilled water before filling.
Step 11: Bleed air (“burp” the system) and check for leaks
- Start the engine and set the HVAC to HOT (this opens coolant flow through the heater core).
- Let it idle while you watch the coolant level; add coolant as it drops using the spill-free funnel kit (specialty) or funnel.
- Watch for leaks at both ends of the new hose using a work light.
- Once warm, shut the engine off and let it cool fully, then recheck level and top off.
- Tip: keep hands away from the cooling fan.
✅ After Repair
- Road test 10–15 minutes, then recheck for seepage around the clamps using a work light.
- After a full cool-down, recheck the surge tank level and top off to the “COLD” mark.
- If you get an overheating warning or no cabin heat, stop and re-bleed—air may still be trapped.
- Inspect other hoses; if one failed from age, others may be close.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$505 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Radiator Coolant Hose replace for these GMC vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2020 GMC Terrain | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2019 GMC Terrain | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2018 GMC Terrain | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |


















