🔧 ProMaster - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose fixes coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, install a new one with good clamps, then refill and bleed the cooling system so no air gets trapped.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours

Assumption: You’re replacing either the upper or lower radiator hose; steps include both.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; let it cool completely.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—keep away from kids/pets and clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Support the van with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/loose clothing away from the radiator fan—it can turn on unexpectedly.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep the key off.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool (90-degree)
• Slip-joint pliers
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• Trim clip removal tool
• Work light
• Clean shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Hose clamps (correct size) - Qty: 2
• Engine coolant (OAT, 50/50 premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool fully (upper radiator hose should feel cool to the touch).
• Set a drain pan under the front of the van.
• If you’re doing the lower hose, raise the front using a floor jack and support with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve any leftover pressure

• Use a shop rag and slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand.
• If you hear hissing, stop and wait until it fully vents, then remove the cap.

Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level

• Place the drain pan under the radiator area.
• From underneath, remove any lower splash shield/undertray fasteners using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool (if equipped).
• Drain coolant from the radiator drain (if accessible) using a flat-blade screwdriver as needed to open/turn it gently.
• If the drain isn’t accessible, you can drain by loosening the lower hose clamp carefully (next steps) and catching the coolant in the pan.

Step 3: Remove the old hose clamps

• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to squeeze spring-style clamps and slide them back on the hose.
• If you have screw-type clamps, loosen them with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Tip: Take a photo of clamp positions.

Step 4: Break the hose free (don’t rip it off)

• Twist the hose gently by hand to break the seal.
• If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (90-degree) to carefully lift the hose edge to let air in.
• Pull the hose off the fitting and aim it into the drain pan to catch spills.

Step 5: Upper hose route (top access)

• Locate the upper hose running from the radiator upper outlet to the engine/thermostat area.
• If access is tight, loosen the intake duct clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver and move the duct aside (do not force it).
• Remove the hose fully and compare it to the new one for matching bends and ends.

Step 6: Lower hose route (bottom access)

• From underneath with a work light, locate the lower hose at the bottom of the radiator.
• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move clamps back, then twist and remove the hose.
• Be ready: the lower hose usually dumps more coolant into the drain pan.

Step 7: Clean the hose sealing surfaces

• Wipe the radiator/engine fittings clean using shop rags.
• Do not gouge or sand the plastic/aluminum fittings; just remove slime and crust.

Step 8: Install the new radiator hose

• Slide the new clamps onto the hose before installing it.
• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out (you should feel it “seat”).
• Position clamps behind the raised bead on the fitting, then release with hose clamp pliers (specialty) or tighten with a flat-blade screwdriver.
• Tip: A tiny film of coolant helps the hose slide on.

Step 9: Reinstall any removed covers

• Reinstall splash shields/undertray using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
• If removed, reinstall intake ducting and snug clamps using a flat-blade screwdriver.

Step 10: Refill coolant

• Use a funnel to fill the reservoir with OAT, 50/50 premix coolant.
• If using concentrate, mix only with distilled water (not tap water).

Step 11: Bleed air from the cooling system

• Start the engine and set the heater to MAX HEAT with the fan on medium.
• Let the engine idle and watch the coolant level; add as it drops using a funnel.
• When the engine reaches operating temperature, the radiator hose should get hot as the thermostat opens.
• Shut the engine off, let it cool, then recheck and top off to the correct mark.
• Tip: Don’t overfill; use the reservoir marks.

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✅ After Repair

• Inspect for leaks with the engine running: check both hose ends and clamps using a work light.
• Verify the heater blows hot air (a sign coolant is circulating).
• Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks and recheck coolant level after a full cool-down.
• Dispose of old coolant properly—most parts stores accept waste fluids.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.