🔧 Soul - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose means safely draining some coolant, removing the old hose and clamps, and installing a new hose without leaks. On your Soul, the most common hoses are the upper radiator hose (top of radiator to engine) and the lower radiator hose (bottom of radiator to engine), and the steps are very similar.

Assumption: You’re replacing either the upper or lower radiator hose using factory-style spring clamps.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the cooling system hot—hot coolant can spray and burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you lift it—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—catch it in a drain pan and keep it away from kids/pets.
• ⚠️ Wipe spills right away and dispose of old coolant properly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Funnel
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Slip-joint pliers
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• 10mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3" extension
• Trim clip removal tool
• Shop towels
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
• Engine coolant (Asian vehicle, phosphate OAT type) 50/50 premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🧊 Let the engine cool completely (best: sit overnight).
• 🧼 Put a drain pan under the front of the car before opening anything.
• 📌 If you need more room for the lower hose, lift the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the front pinch welds.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve any leftover pressure (engine cold)

• Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Slowly loosen the coolant cap (radiator cap or reservoir cap) to the first stop to vent any pressure, then remove it fully.
• If you hear hissing, wait until it stops.

Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level

• Place the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to open the radiator drain plug (petcock) if equipped, and let coolant drain.
• If there is no petcock access, you can drain by loosening the lower hose clamp slightly (go slow) using hose clamp pliers (specialty) and aim the flow into the pan.
• Drain just enough so the hose you’re replacing won’t gush.

Step 3: Remove shields/undercover (lower hose only, if needed)

• Use a 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and trim clip removal tool to remove the lower splash shield fasteners (if equipped).
• Set all bolts/clips aside in a small pile so you don’t lose them.

Step 4: Identify the hose you’re replacing

• Upper radiator hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the engine.
• Lower radiator hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator to the engine area.
• Use a flashlight to confirm both ends and where the clamps sit.

Step 5: Move the hose clamps away from the fittings

• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to squeeze spring clamps and slide them back onto the hose.
• Hose clamp pliers are locking pliers made to pinch spring clamps safely without slipping.
• If you have screw-type clamps, use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen them a few turns.

Step 6: Break the hose loose (don’t pry the radiator neck)

• Use slip-joint pliers to gently twist the hose near the end to break the seal.
• If it’s stuck, use a flat-blade screwdriver very carefully to lift the hose edge slightly—do not gouge the plastic/metal neck.
• Pull the hose off and let any remaining coolant drain into the drain pan.
• Twist first—pulling straight can tear fittings.

Step 7: Inspect and clean the fittings

• Use shop towels to wipe the radiator neck and engine-side fitting clean.
• Check for cracks on the radiator neck and heavy corrosion on metal fittings.
• If the old hose had a “stuck-on” ring, make sure it’s not still on the neck.

Step 8: Install the new hose and position clamps correctly

• Match the new hose shape to the old one before installing.
• Slide clamps onto the hose first using hose clamp pliers (specialty) (or loosen screw clamps with a flat-blade screwdriver).
• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out against the stop/bead.
• Move each clamp into place (typically just behind the raised bead on the neck) using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• If using screw clamps, tighten with a flat-blade screwdriver until snug—do not crush the hose.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reinstall using the 10mm socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and trim clip removal tool.
• Snug the fasteners firmly (no specific torque required for typical plastic clips/small shield bolts).

Step 10: Refill coolant

• Use a funnel to refill with Asian vehicle, phosphate OAT type 50/50 premix coolant at the radiator fill (if equipped) and/or the coolant reservoir.
• Fill the reservoir to the MAX line.
• Wipe any spills with shop towels.

Step 11: Bleed air from the cooling system

• Start the engine and set the heater to full hot (this helps move coolant through the heater core).
• Let the engine idle while watching the temperature gauge and checking for leaks with a flashlight.
• As the engine warms up, the coolant level may drop—top off carefully using the funnel.
• Once warm and the heater blows hot, shut the engine off and let it cool completely, then recheck and top off again.
• Never remove the cap when hot.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔎 With the engine fully warm, inspect both ends of the new hose for seepage using a flashlight.
• 🧊 After a full cool-down, recheck the reservoir level and top off to MAX using a funnel.
• 🛣️ Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks and verify the temperature gauge stays normal.
• 🧼 Clean any spilled coolant and store/transport old coolant in a sealed container for proper disposal.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$415 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.