How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step coolant hose removal/installation with required tools, parts list, refill/bleed tips, and leak checks
How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step coolant hose removal/installation with required tools, parts list, refill/bleed tips, and leak checks
🔧 Traverse - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, install the new one with the correct clamps, then refill and bleed the cooling system so no air pockets remain.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; pressurized coolant can burn you.
- ⚠️ Let your Traverse cool fully (at least 2-3 hours) before starting.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep it off skin/eyes and away from kids/pets, and clean spills fast.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job, but keep hands/tools clear of the cooling fans (they can turn on by themselves).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Funnel
- Spill-free funnel kit (specialty)
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers
- Pick tool (90-degree)
- Flathead screwdriver
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
- Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
- Let the engine cool completely, then slowly loosen the coolant cap on the surge tank to confirm there is no pressure.
- Set your cabin HVAC to HOT and the fan on LOW for the bleed process later.
- Assumption: You’re replacing either upper or lower hose.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Create safe access
- If you need access from underneath (common for the lower hose), raise the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Place a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator area.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get the hose off
- Slowly remove the coolant cap from the surge tank by hand.
- Open the radiator drain (if accessible) and drain coolant into the drain pan (at least 2-gallon). If you can’t access the drain, you can drain by carefully loosening the lower hose clamp and letting it drain into the pan.
- Torque to N/A (drain is hand-snug; do not over-tighten)
- Drain only what you need to prevent a big mess.
Step 3: Remove the engine cover and/or intake duct (if needed)
- If the engine cover blocks access, lift it off by hand (it is typically held by rubber grommets).
- If the air intake duct blocks the upper hose area, loosen the duct clamps using an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet, then move the duct aside.
- Torque to N/A (worm clamps are tightened snug)
Step 4: Remove the old radiator hose (upper or lower)
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose. (Hose clamp pliers are pliers that lock and hold a spring clamp open so you don’t fight it.)
- If your Traverse has screw-type clamps, loosen them with a flathead screwdriver and slide them back.
- Twist the hose to break it loose. If it’s stuck, gently work around the hose end with a pick tool (90-degree) to break the seal.
- Pull the hose off the radiator neck and the engine-side fitting. Catch any remaining coolant in the drain pan (at least 2-gallon).
- Torque to N/A (clamps)
- Do not pry hard on plastic radiator necks.
Step 5: Prep the fittings and compare parts
- Wipe the radiator neck and engine fitting clean using shop towels.
- Confirm the new hose matches the old one in length, bends, and end diameters.
- Install the clamps onto the new hose before fitting it onto the vehicle.
Step 6: Install the new hose and position the clamps
- Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
- Position the clamp behind the raised “bead” on the fitting (the bead helps prevent blow-off).
- For spring clamps, use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to release the clamp in the correct spot.
- For screw clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug (do not crush the hose).
- Torque to N/A (clamps)
Step 7: Reinstall anything removed
- Reinstall the intake duct and tighten with an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing it back onto its grommets by hand.
- Torque to N/A
Step 8: Refill coolant
- Install a spill-free funnel kit (specialty) on the surge tank opening.
- Slowly refill with Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) using the funnel until the level stabilizes.
- Torque to N/A
Step 9: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and let it idle with the spill-free funnel kit (specialty) still installed.
- As the engine warms up, watch the coolant level in the funnel and add premix as needed.
- Set RPM to about 1,500-2,000 for 30-60 seconds a few times to help move air. Use a helper or carefully hold the pedal.
- Wait until you feel steady heat from the vents and the upper hose gets hot (thermostat opened).
- Shut the engine off, let it cool 15-20 minutes, then top off to the proper level and reinstall the cap.
- Torque to N/A (cap is hand-tight)
- Any gurgling usually means trapped air.
Step 10: Check for leaks
- With the engine running, inspect both hose ends with a flashlight and safety glasses on.
- If you see seepage, reposition/tighten the clamp and re-check.
- Torque to N/A
✅ After Repair
- Road-test 10-15 minutes, then park and re-check for leaks.
- After the next full cool-down (overnight is best), verify the surge tank level is at the “COLD” mark and top off with Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) if needed.
- Make sure the temperature gauge stays normal and the heater output is steady.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (sealed container; take to a recycler/parts store that accepts fluids).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $205-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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