🔧 Regal - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll drain some coolant, swap the hose(s), then refill and purge air so the cooling system works correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours

Assumption: You may be replacing the upper or lower radiator hose; steps cover both.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; coolant can spray and burn.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; coolant is slippery and irritating.
• 🚗 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ♻️ Collect coolant in a drain pan and dispose of it properly; it’s toxic to pets.
• 🔌 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
• Funnel
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (1/4")
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Hose clamp pliers
• Pick tool (hose removal pick)
• Pliers (slip-joint)
• Shop towels
• Torque wrench (inch-pound)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🧭 Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
• 🧊 Let the engine cool fully (ideally 2+ hours) before touching hoses or the coolant reservoir.
• 🧰 Lay out tools and a drain pan; coolant will spill when the hose comes off.
• 📌 Identify the hose you’re replacing:
  • Upper hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the engine (thermostat housing area).
  • Lower hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator to the engine (water pump/inlet area); usually accessed from below.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve coolant system pressure (cold engine only)

• Open the hood.
• Place shop towels around the coolant reservoir cap.
• Slowly loosen the cap by hand to release any remaining pressure, then remove it.

Step 2: Raise the front (for lower hose access)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front center jack point to lift the car.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front pinch welds.
• Shake-test the car gently to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a 7mm socket and 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 6" extension (1/4") to remove the shield fasteners.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small pile.

Step 4: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level

• Position a drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator’s lower area.
• If your radiator has a drain valve (petcock), open it carefully by hand or with a flat-blade screwdriver (only if it fits correctly).
• If there’s no easy drain, you can drain by loosening the lower radiator hose clamp and letting coolant flow into the pan.
• Drain until coolant level is below the hose you’re removing.

Step 5: Remove the hose clamps

• For spring-style clamps: use hose clamp pliers (they squeeze the clamp open and hold it).
• For worm-gear clamps: loosen with a flat-blade screwdriver until the clamp slides back.
• Slide the clamp(s) a few inches away from the hose end.

Step 6: Break the hose loose and remove it

• Twist the hose back and forth by hand to break it free.
• If it’s stuck, carefully work a pick tool (hose removal pick) between the hose and the fitting to release it.
• Pull the hose off and aim any remaining coolant into the drain pan.
• Tip: Don’t pry hard on plastic fittings.

Step 7: Clean and inspect the hose fittings

• Wipe the radiator neck and engine-side fitting with shop towels.
• Remove crusty buildup so the new hose can seal.
• Inspect for cracks on plastic outlets; if cracked, the outlet/housing must be replaced before refilling.

Step 8: Install the new hose and clamps

• Slide new clamps onto the new hose before installing the hose.
• Push the hose fully onto the fitting(s) until it bottoms out.
• Reposition the clamps near the end of the hose, over the sealing bead (raised lip) on the fitting.
• If using worm-gear clamps, tighten with a flat-blade screwdriver until snug (do not crush the hose).
• If using spring clamps, release them with hose clamp pliers into the correct position.

Step 9: Reinstall splash shield and lower the car

• Reinstall the shield using the 7mm socket and 10mm socket.
• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower the car.

Step 10: Refill coolant

• Insert a funnel into the coolant reservoir (surge tank).
• Add Dex-Cool coolant (50/50 premix) until it reaches the “COLD” fill line (or slightly above if you drained a lot).
• If you used concentrate coolant, mix with distilled water to a 50/50 ratio before filling.

Step 11: Purge air and verify heat

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Set HVAC to MAX HEAT and the fan to medium.
• Watch the coolant level in the reservoir; add coolant as it drops.
• Let the engine warm up until the upper hose feels hot (thermostat opened) and you get steady hot air from the vents.
• Check around both hose ends for leaks using a flashlight and shop towels.
• Shut the engine off and let it cool, then recheck the reservoir level and top off to the “COLD” line.

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✅ After Repair

• 🔍 With the engine fully warmed up, confirm the temperature gauge stays normal and the heater blows hot.
• 🧼 Recheck for leaks after your first short drive, then again the next morning (cold).
• 🧴 Top off coolant to the “COLD” line after it fully cools.
• 🚫 If you see overheating, no cabin heat, or bubbling in the reservoir, stop driving and re-bleed (air is still trapped).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $50-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $200-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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