How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2016-2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks
How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2016-2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Engine: V8 5.7L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Radiator Hose Replacement
On your Grand Cherokee, the radiator hoses carry coolant between the radiator and the engine. Replacing a leaking, swollen, or cracked hose is straightforward, but you must work on a fully cool engine to avoid a dangerous hot-coolant spray.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work when the engine is completely cold; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/tools away from the electric cooling fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Clean spills immediately; coolant is toxic to pets and people.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Slip-joint pliers
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool set
- Trim clip removal tool
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3/8" extension (6")
- Funnel (spill-free type)
- Shop rags
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose (upper or lower) - Qty: 1
- Hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Coolant (Mopar OAT 50/50 premix) - Qty: 2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally 3+ hours).
- Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap to relieve any residual pressure, then reinstall it loosely while you set up. Use shop rags for grip.
- If you’re doing the lower hose, plan to raise the front and support it on jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify which hose you’re replacing
- Open the hood and locate the two main hoses: the upper hose runs to the top area of the radiator, and the lower hose runs to the bottom area of the radiator.
- Look closely at each end to identify the connection type:
- Spring clamp: a round clamp you squeeze with hose clamp pliers (specialty) or slip-joint pliers.
- Screw clamp: a clamp with a screw you loosen/tighten with a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket.
- Take a photo before you remove anything.
Step 2: Make room for access (upper hose area)
- If needed, loosen the air intake duct clamps using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet, then move the duct aside.
- If you remove any small brackets or retainers, use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet as required.
- Torque: If you removed any 10mm fasteners, Torque to the same snugness they had originally (hose replacement itself typically has no bolt torque points).
Step 3: Position the drain pan and prepare to catch coolant
- Place a drain pan under the radiator end of the hose you’re removing.
- Lay shop rags under the connection to control splash.
Step 4: Release the clamp at the radiator end
- For a spring clamp: squeeze the clamp ears with hose clamp pliers (specialty) and slide the clamp back on the hose about 2 inches.
- For a screw clamp: loosen it with a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket until it spins freely, then slide it back.
- Don’t remove the clamp from the hose yet.
Step 5: Break the hose free (without cracking fittings)
- Twist the hose end back and forth by hand to break it loose.
- If it’s stuck, carefully work the edge with a pick tool to lift the hose off the nipple a little at a time.
- Pull the hose off and let coolant drain into the drain pan.
- Important: Do not pry hard against plastic radiator necks; they can crack.
Step 6: Release the clamp and remove the hose at the engine end
- Repeat the clamp release using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or an 8mm socket/flathead screwdriver (depending on clamp type).
- Twist and pull the hose off the engine-side fitting and remove the hose from the vehicle.
Step 7: Prep the fittings and compare parts
- Wipe both fittings clean with shop rags.
- Compare the old hose and new hose side-by-side to confirm same bends, diameter, and length.
- If the inside of the old hose left rubber stuck on the fitting, gently remove it with a pick tool and wipe clean.
Step 8: Install the new hose
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose before installing it.
- Push the hose fully onto the engine-side fitting first.
- Position the clamp:
- Spring clamp: use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move it into the original clamping location.
- Screw clamp: tighten with a flathead screwdriver or 8mm socket until firmly snug.
- Install the radiator-side end the same way, ensuring the hose is fully seated and routed like the original.
- Torque: Spring clamps are self-tensioning (no torque spec). For screw clamps, tighten only until the hose cannot rotate by hand.
Step 9: Reinstall anything removed for access
- Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten the clamps using an 8mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Reinstall any brackets/retainers using a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet.
Step 10: Refill coolant and purge trapped air
- Use a funnel (spill-free type) to fill the coolant reservoir with Mopar OAT 50/50 premix up to the MAX line.
- Start the engine and set the HVAC to HOT with the fan on low (this helps coolant circulate through the heater core).
- Let the engine idle and watch the temperature gauge. As the engine warms up, top off as needed.
- Once warm, shut the engine off, let it cool fully, then recheck and adjust the level again.
✅ After Repair
- Check for leaks at both ends of the new hose with the engine idling and again after a short drive.
- Verify cabin heat works normally; weak heat can mean air is still trapped.
- After the next cold soak (overnight is best), recheck coolant level and top off to the MAX line.
- Dispose of old coolant properly (do not dump).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$320 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
Before I tailor the steps exactly to your Grand Cherokee, answer these two quick questions: are you replacing the upper or lower radiator hose, and do you have spring clamps or screw clamps on the hose ends?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Radiator Coolant Hose replace for these Jeep vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |
| 2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee | - | V6 3.6L | - |


















