🔧 Edge - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. On your Edge, the hoses are held on with clamps and route between the radiator, engine, and coolant reservoir.

Assumption: You may be replacing either the upper or lower radiator hose; steps below cover both.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap hot; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the Edge with jack stands before working underneath.
• ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; catch it all in a drain pan.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Trim clip remover
• 7mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (1/4" drive)
• Slip-joint pliers
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool (small hook)
• Razor blade
• Shop towels
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Engine coolant (Ford-approved) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1-2 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Let the engine cool fully (ideally 2+ hours). The coolant system must be cold.
• Locate the coolant reservoir (degas bottle): the plastic tank with the pressure cap.
• Set your HVAC to heat later during bleeding; this helps push air out of the system.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve coolant pressure (cold engine only)

• Place shop towels around the coolant reservoir cap.
• Slowly loosen the cap by hand to release any leftover pressure, then remove it.

Step 2: Raise the front (for lower hose access)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front jack point.
• Set the Edge securely on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip remover to pop out plastic clips.
• Use a 7mm socket or 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension to remove shield screws/bolts.
• Reinstall torque guideline: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).

Step 4: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level

• Position a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator area.
• If you can access the radiator drain, open it carefully; if not, you can drain from the lower radiator hose connection.
• Tip: Draining 1–2 gallons is usually enough.

Step 5: Remove the radiator hose clamps

• Most factory clamps are spring clamps (a clamp that squeezes with pliers and springs back).
• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) or slip-joint pliers to compress the clamp tabs.
• Slide the clamp back on the hose by 2–3 inches so it’s off the fitting.

Step 6: Remove the old hose

• Twist the hose by hand to break it loose, then pull it off.
• If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (small hook) to gently lift the hose edge to let air in, then twist again.
• If the hose is rock-hard, carefully slit it lengthwise with a razor blade and peel it off (do not cut into the plastic/metal fitting).

Step 7: Prep the fittings and compare parts

• Use shop towels to wipe the radiator/engine fittings clean.
• Compare the new hose to the old one (shape, bends, and end sizes must match).
• Position the new clamps on the hose before installation.

Step 8: Install the new hose

• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to place each clamp in the same spot as the original (typically just behind the raised bead on the fitting).
• Make sure the hose is not rubbing on sharp edges or the drive belt area.

Step 9: Reinstall splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the shield using the 7mm socket/8mm socket, ratchet, and trim clip remover.
• Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) for small shield fasteners.
• Remove jack stands and lower using the floor jack.

Step 10: Refill coolant

• Use a funnel to fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line with the correct coolant mix (typically 50/50 coolant and distilled water).
• Install the cap snugly.

Step 11: Bleed air and check operation

• Start the engine and set HVAC to heat and low fan for the first few minutes.
• Let the engine idle and warm up while watching the temperature gauge.
• Turn the engine off, let it cool, then recheck the reservoir level and top off using the funnel.
• Use a flashlight to inspect both hose ends for seepage.

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✅ After Repair

• Road test 10–15 minutes, then park and inspect for leaks with a flashlight.
• After a full cool-down, recheck the coolant level and add as needed.
• Verify the cabin heater blows hot (a cold heater can mean trapped air).
• Dispose of old coolant properly at a recycling center or auto parts store.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $110-$510 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.