🔧 Cherokee - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose fixes coolant leaks and helps prevent overheating. The job is mainly about safely draining some coolant, swapping the hose, then refilling and purging (bleeding) air from the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🔥 Never open the coolant reservoir cap on a hot engine—hot coolant can spray and burn you.
• 🧯 Coolant is toxic—catch every drop, clean spills immediately, and keep away from kids/pets.
• 🧱 If you lift the front end, support it with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; spring clamps can snap back.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool (hose pick) (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" ratchet
• 6" extension (1/4")
• Funnel
• No-spill coolant funnel kit (specialty)
• Shop towels
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Engine coolant (OAT) 50/50 premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
• Let the engine cool completely (ideally 2+ hours).
• Place a drain pan under the front of the vehicle.
• Hose clamp pliers are pliers that lock onto spring clamps safely.
• Hose pick is a small hook tool to break the hose seal without damage.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which hose you’re replacing

• Open the hood and use a flashlight to locate the leak.
• Upper radiator hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the engine/thermostat area.
• Lower radiator hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator to the engine/water pump area (usually accessed from below).

Step 2: Relieve cooling system pressure (cold engine only)

• Place shop towels around the coolant reservoir cap.
• Slowly loosen the cap by hand until you feel any pressure release, then remove it fully.

Step 3: Gain access (upper vs lower hose)

• Upper hose access:
• Remove the engine cover (if equipped) by pulling it upward by hand.
• If the intake duct blocks access, loosen clamps using a 8mm socket and 1/4" ratchet, then move the duct aside.
• Lower hose access:
• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Remove the lower splash shield/undertray fasteners using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.

Step 4: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level

• Position the drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator-side connection of the hose you’re replacing.
• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
• Carefully twist the hose to break it loose, then pull it off and let coolant drain into the pan.
• Twist first—pulling straight can crack fittings.

Step 5: Remove the old hose (both ends)

• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move the clamp back from the fitting on the other end.
• If the hose is stuck, slide a pick tool (hose pick) (specialty) between the hose and the fitting to break the seal, then remove the hose.
• Use shop towels to wipe the fittings clean.

Step 6: Install the new hose and clamps

• Compare the new hose to the old one (same bends/length) before installing.
• Slide the clamps onto the hose before pushing the hose onto the fittings.
• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to position each clamp behind the bead (raised ridge) on the fitting.
• Torque Note: Spring clamps do not get torqued; they self-tension. If your replacement uses worm-gear clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug—do not crush the plastic radiator neck.

Step 7: Reinstall removed parts

• Reinstall any intake ducting and tighten with a 8mm socket and 1/4" ratchet.
• Reinstall the undertray/splash shield using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle safely if it was raised (use floor jack and remove jack stands).

Step 8: Refill coolant

• Insert a funnel or no-spill coolant funnel kit (specialty) into the coolant reservoir fill opening.
• Slowly add engine coolant (OAT) 50/50 premix until it reaches the “MAX” line (or the level indicated on the reservoir).

Step 9: Bleed air and check for leaks

• Start the engine and set the heater to HOT with the fan on LOW.
• Let it idle while watching the temperature gauge and the hose connections with a flashlight.
• As the engine warms up, add coolant as the level drops (use the no-spill coolant funnel kit (specialty)).
• Once you get steady heat from the vents and the coolant level stabilizes, shut the engine off and let it cool fully.
• Recheck coolant level after it cools and top off to the correct mark.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for drips around both hose ends with the engine running and after a short drive.
• Verify the heater works normally and the temperature gauge stays in its normal range.
• Recheck coolant level the next morning (cold engine) and top off if needed.
• Dispose of old coolant properly (do not pour on the ground).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $90-$510 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Quick question (so I can tailor the exact access steps): Are you replacing the upper hose, the lower hose, or both?