How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2013-2019 Subaru Outback (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, coolant refill & air-bleeding tips to prevent leaks and overheating
How to Replace the Upper or Lower Radiator Hose on a 2013-2019 Subaru Outback (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, coolant refill & air-bleeding tips to prevent leaks and overheating for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Outback - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and helps prevent overheating. On your Outback there are two main radiator hoses (upper and lower); the job is similar for both, but the lower hose usually requires working from underneath.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
Assumption: You’re replacing either the upper and/or lower radiator hose.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a jack.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; catch it in a pan and dispose of it properly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the cooling fans; they can turn on unexpectedly.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 2-gallon)
- Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Channel-lock pliers
- Pick tool (small hook pick)
- Flathead screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- Trim clip removal tool
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Shop rags
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
- Engine coolant (Subaru Super Coolant equivalent, pre-mix) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally 2+ hours).
- Set the HVAC to HOT (temperature dial all the way warm) so coolant can circulate through the heater core during bleeding.
- If you’re replacing the lower hose, raise the front using a floor jack and support it with jack stands at the proper lift points.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve cooling system pressure (cold engine only)
- Place shop rags around the radiator cap area.
- Slowly loosen the radiator cap by hand to the first “stop” to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully.
Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level
- Position a drain pan (at least 2-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
- If equipped with a radiator drain cock, open it carefully by hand; if access is tight, use a flathead screwdriver gently.
- Drain until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing, then close the drain cock snugly (do not overtighten plastic).
- Tip: Draining less saves time bleeding.
Step 3: Gain access (upper vs lower hose)
- Upper hose: Use a flashlight to locate the hose between the radiator top neck and the engine/thermostat housing area.
- Lower hose: Remove the lower splash shield/undercover using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and trim clip removal tool as needed.
Step 4: Remove the hose clamps
- Most OEM-style clamps are spring clamps (a constant-tension clamp).
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to squeeze the clamp tabs, then slide the clamp back onto the hose away from the fitting.
- If the clamp is a worm-gear style, loosen it using a flathead screwdriver.
Step 5: Break the hose free
- Twist the hose by hand to break the seal. If it’s stuck, use channel-lock pliers gently on the hose (don’t crush the radiator neck).
- If it still won’t release, carefully slide a pick tool (small hook pick) under the hose end to let a little air in, then twist again.
- Pull the hose off and aim it into the drain pan to catch remaining coolant.
- Tip: Don’t pry on the radiator neck.
Step 6: Prep the fittings
- Wipe the radiator neck and engine-side fitting with shop rags.
- Make sure the old hose didn’t leave rubber stuck to the fitting (remove carefully with the pick tool if needed).
- Inspect the radiator neck for cracks and the fittings for heavy corrosion.
Step 7: Install the new hose and position clamps
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose first.
- Push the new hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out past the bead (the raised ring on the neck).
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move spring clamps into place behind the bead.
- If using worm-gear clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug and secure (do not strip or crush the neck).
Step 8: Reinstall the underbody cover (if removed)
- Reinstall the splash shield using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and any clips with the trim clip removal tool.
- Lower the vehicle safely using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
Step 9: Refill coolant
- Install the spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) at the radiator fill neck.
- Pour in engine coolant (Subaru Super Coolant equivalent, pre-mix) until full.
- Fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line.
Step 10: Bleed air from the system
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Keep the HVAC set to HOT and fan on low/medium.
- Watch for air bubbles in the funnel; add coolant as the level drops.
- As the engine warms up, carefully squeeze the new hose a few times by hand to help move trapped air.
- When the radiator fan cycles on/off at least once and bubbles slow down, shut the engine off and let it cool.
- Top off the radiator and overflow bottle as needed, then install the radiator cap securely.
- Tip: Cooling completely gives the best final level.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check carefully for leaks at both ends of the hose (use a flashlight).
- Test drive 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge.
- After the engine cools fully, recheck the overflow reservoir level and top off to the FULL line.
- Look under the car the next morning for any coolant drips.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $180-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















