🔧 Challenger - Radiator Hose Replacement

On your Challenger, radiator hoses carry coolant between the radiator and engine. Replacing a cracked, swollen, or leaking hose is important to prevent overheating and engine damage.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Quick questions (pick one): Which hose are you replacing—upper (top hose) or lower (bottom hose)? Also, does your hose use spring clamps (squeezed with pliers) or screw clamps (tightened with a socket/screwdriver)?

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the cooling system hot; wait until fully cool.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—use a drain pan and clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/clothes away from the cooling fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for hose replacement, but keep the ignition off.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
• Funnel
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool (90-degree)
• Razor blade scraper
• Flathead screwdriver
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" ratchet
• 1/4" torque wrench
• Pliers
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamp set - Qty: 1
• Coolant (OEM-spec OAT, 50/50 premix) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Let the engine cool completely (radiator hoses should feel cool).
• Set the HVAC to full HOT before you start bleeding later (this helps coolant flow through the heater core).
• Position a drain pan under the radiator area before loosening any hose.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Depressurize the cooling system

• Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to release any leftover pressure, then remove it.
• If it hisses, wait and loosen slower.

Step 2: Raise the front (if replacing the lower hose)

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front lift point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Keep wheel chocks in place.

Step 3: Drain enough coolant to get the hose off cleanly

• Place the drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator outlet area.
• If you can access the lower radiator hose easily, you can drain by loosening the hose first.
• If a splash shield blocks access, remove it using a 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 1/4" ratchet.
• Drain until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing.

Step 4: Remove the old hose clamps

• If you have spring clamps: squeeze them with hose clamp pliers (specialty) and slide them back on the hose.
• If you have screw clamps: loosen them with a 8mm socket or flathead screwdriver and slide them back.
• “Spring clamp” = clamp you squeeze to open.

Step 5: Break the hose loose (don’t pry the radiator neck)

• Twist the hose by hand to break it free from the fitting.
• If it’s stuck, carefully work around the hose end with a pick tool (90-degree) to break the seal.
• If you must cut the hose, use a razor blade scraper and cut along the hose length (avoid cutting into the plastic/aluminum neck).

Step 6: Remove the hose and clean the sealing surfaces

• Pull the hose off and let remaining coolant drain into the drain pan.
• Use shop towels to wipe the radiator neck and engine-side fitting clean.
• If there is residue, gently clean with the razor blade scraper (light pressure only).

Step 7: Install the new hose and position the clamps

• Match the new hose to the old one (shape and bends) before installing.
• Slide clamps onto the hose first using pliers or hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it seats against the stop/bead.
• Reposition the clamp over the hose end (behind the bead). Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) for spring clamps or a 8mm socket for screw clamps.
• Use a 1/4" torque wrench only if your clamp style specifies a torque value on the clamp/packaging.

Step 8: Reinstall any removed shields

• Reinstall the splash shield using a 8mm socket, 10mm socket, and 1/4" ratchet.
• If you have fastener torque info available (service info or fastener markings), use the 1/4" torque wrench to tighten to spec.

Step 9: Refill coolant

• Use a funnel and refill the reservoir with OEM-spec OAT, 50/50 premix.
• If you used concentrate, mix with distilled water (don’t use tap water).

Step 10: Bleed air and verify operation

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Set the HVAC to HOT and medium fan.
• Watch the temperature gauge and check for leaks at both ends of the new hose.
• As the thermostat opens, the coolant level may drop—top off as needed using the funnel.
• Once fully warmed and heat is strong inside, shut the engine off and let it cool, then recheck level and top off.

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✅ After Repair

• Inspect for leaks with the engine idling and again after a short drive.
• Recheck coolant level after the first full cool-down and add as needed.
• Verify the radiator fan cycles on and off normally and the temp gauge stays steady.
• Dispose of old coolant properly (most parts stores accept it).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$420 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.