🔧 Juke - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. On your Juke, the job is mostly about safely draining coolant, swapping the hose, then refilling and bleeding air so the engine stays at the correct temperature.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: You mean the upper or lower radiator hose (steps include both).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; coolant can spray and burn you.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands if you lift the front; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; catch it in a drain pan and clean spills.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the radiator fan; it can turn on even with the engine off.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required, but keep tools away from the battery terminals.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" socket extension
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pliers
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool (small)
• Razor blade (plastic-safe)
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty)
• Shop towels
• Flashlight

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Engine coolant (Nissan Long Life Coolant, blue premix 50/50) - Qty: 2-3 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely (at least 2-3 hours) so the system is not pressurized.
• Set the heater inside the cabin to HOT during bleeding later (this helps move air out of the cooling system).
• If you need more access, raise the front with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (undercover)

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) and jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) if you need room underneath.
• Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the undercover bolts.
• Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove any plastic screws/clips.

Step 2: Relieve pressure safely

• Place shop towels over the radiator cap.
• Slowly loosen the radiator cap by hand to the first “stop” to vent any leftover pressure, then remove it fully.

Step 3: Drain coolant

• Position a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the radiator drain area (lower corner of the radiator).
• Open the drain carefully (often a plastic drain cock) by hand; use pliers only if needed and very gently to avoid breaking it.
• Let coolant drain until flow slows to a drip.

Step 4: Remove the hose clamps

• Locate the hose you’re replacing:
• Upper hose: runs from the top of the radiator to the engine.
• Lower hose: runs from the bottom of the radiator to the engine.
• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to squeeze spring clamps and slide them back on the hose.
• If your clamps are screw-type, use a Phillips screwdriver to loosen them.
• Hose clamp pliers lock the clamp open for you.

Step 5: Remove the old hose

• Twist the hose by hand to break it free first.
• If it’s stuck, carefully work the edge loose with a pick tool (small).
• Pull the hose off the radiator/engine necks. Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan (10-quart minimum) and shop towels.
• Don’t pry hard on plastic radiator necks.

Step 6: Clean the sealing surfaces

• Use shop towels to wipe the radiator and engine hose necks clean.
• If there’s stuck rubber, carefully remove it with a razor blade (plastic-safe).
• Make sure the hose neck bead (the “raised ring”) is clean; the clamp seals behind this bead.

Step 7: Install the new hose

• Slide the clamps onto the new hose first.
• Push the hose fully onto each neck until it bottoms out.
• Position the clamp behind the bead on the neck (not on the very edge).
• Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to release spring clamps into position, or use a Phillips screwdriver to snug screw clamps.
• Clamps should be straight, not tilted.

Step 8: Reinstall the undercover

• Reinstall the undercover using a 10mm socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, and 6" socket extension.
• Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) for the 10mm undercover bolts.

Step 9: Refill coolant

• Insert a spill-free coolant funnel kit (specialty) or a funnel into the radiator fill neck.
• Slowly add Engine coolant (Nissan Long Life Coolant, blue premix 50/50) until the radiator is full.
• Fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line.

Step 10: Bleed air from the cooling system

• Start the engine and let it idle. Keep the spill-free funnel installed.
• Turn the cabin heat to HOT and the fan to medium.
• As the engine warms up, watch for bubbles in the funnel and keep coolant level topped up.
• Carefully squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times by hand to help move trapped air.
• When the radiator fan cycles on and off and bubbles slow down, shut the engine off and let it cool.
• Once cool, remove the funnel and install the radiator cap by hand until fully seated.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check for leaks at both ends of the replaced hose with a flashlight.
• Test drive 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge for normal operation.
• After the engine fully cools, recheck the reservoir level and top off to MAX if needed.
• Recheck for dried coolant trails the next day; tighten/reposition clamps if you see seepage.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹6,000-₹14,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹2,000-₹7,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹4,000-₹7,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,200-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.