🔧 Journey - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, install a new one with proper clamps, then refill and purge air from the cooling system so it can cool correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine—hot coolant can spray and burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands if you raise it—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Coolant is poisonous to people and pets—catch it in a drain pan and clean spills.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/clothes away from the cooling fan—it can turn on even with the engine off.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 2 gallons)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Flathead screwdriver
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• 7mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (1/4" drive)
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range) (specialty)
• Funnel
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Engine coolant (Mopar OAT, 50/50 premix or concentrate + distilled water) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely (cool to the touch).
• Set the HVAC to heat later during bleeding (this helps move coolant through the heater core).
• Assumption: you’re replacing either the upper or lower hose; steps cover both.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Pull up gently by hand to release the rubber grommets (no tools if it’s a pop-off cover).
• If fasteners are present, remove them using a 7mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet.

Step 2: Safely relieve cooling system pressure

• Place a shop towels over the coolant reservoir cap.
• Slowly loosen the cap by hand to release any leftover pressure, then remove it.

Step 3: Raise the front (recommended for lower hose access)

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and confirm it’s stable.

Step 4: Remove the lower splash shield (if it blocks access)

• Remove push-clips using a trim clip removal tool.
• Remove small bolts/screws using an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet and 6" extension (1/4" drive).

Step 5: Drain coolant to below the hose level

• Position a drain pan (at least 2 gallons) under the radiator area.
• If accessible, open the radiator drain (petcock) carefully using a flathead screwdriver and drain until the level drops below the hose you’re replacing.
• If no drain is accessible, you can drain by loosening the lower hose clamp slowly (next step) and controlling the flow into the drain pan.
• Tip: draining less coolant means less mess.

Step 6: Remove the old hose clamps

• If you have spring clamps, squeeze and slide them back using hose clamp pliers (specialty) (these are pliers that lock onto spring clamps so you can move them safely).
• If you have worm-gear clamps, loosen them using a 7mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.

Step 7: Break the hose seal and remove the hose

• Twist the hose by hand to break it free.
• If it’s stuck, gently work around the end with a pick tool (specialty) to loosen it (a pick is a small hooked tool used to separate stuck rubber from metal/plastic).
• Pull the hose off and aim it into the drain pan (at least 2 gallons) to catch remaining coolant.
• Tip: don’t pry hard on plastic necks.

Step 8: Inspect the fittings

• Wipe the radiator/engine hose necks clean using shop towels.
• Check for cracks, heavy corrosion, or a broken hose neck. If damaged, stop—those parts may need replacement before installing a new hose.

Step 9: Install the new hose and clamps

• Slide the new clamps onto the new hose before installing it (use hose clamp pliers (specialty) for spring clamps).
• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it seats against the stop/bead.
• Position clamps behind the raised bead on the fitting, then release/tighten them.
• If using worm-gear clamps, tighten using a 7mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet; Torque to 3-5 Nm (27-44 in-lbs) if using a torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range) (specialty).

Step 10: Reinstall splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall fasteners using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Reinstall clips using a trim clip removal tool (press in by hand).
• Lower the vehicle safely using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 11: Refill coolant

• Insert a funnel into the coolant reservoir fill neck.
• Refill with Engine coolant (Mopar OAT, 50/50 premix or concentrate + distilled water) until it reaches the MAX line (engine cold).
• If you used concentrate, mix with distilled water to a 50/50 ratio before filling.

Step 12: Bleed air and verify repair

• Start the engine and set the heat to HOT with the fan on low.
• Let the engine idle and warm up while watching for leaks at both ends of the new hose.
• As the thermostat opens, the coolant level may drop—top off using the funnel.
• Once you have steady heat from the vents and the temperature gauge stays normal, shut the engine off.
• Let it cool fully, then recheck and top off to the MAX line (cold).

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✅ After Repair

• Inspect for leaks after the first test drive (look around both hose ends).
• Recheck coolant level the next morning (engine cold) and top off if needed.
• If the engine runs hot or the heater blows cold, stop driving—air may still be trapped.
• Dispose of old coolant properly (most parts stores accept waste coolant).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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