🔧 Compass - Radiator Hose Replacement

You’ll be removing a worn/leaking radiator hose and installing a new one, then refilling and bleeding the cooling system so the engine doesn’t overheat. On your Compass, the most common hoses are the upper radiator hose (top of radiator to engine) and the lower radiator hose (bottom of radiator to engine/water outlet).

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine—hot coolant can spray out under pressure.
• ⚠️ Support the Compass with jack stands on a solid, level surface—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors; wipe spills right away.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic—use a drain pan and keep it away from kids/pets.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Slip-joint pliers
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• 7mm nut driver
• 8mm nut driver
• Pick tool (angled)
• Trim clip removal tool
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet
• Torque wrench (ft-lb)
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Engine coolant (Mopar OAT compatible) - Qty: 1-2 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1-2 gallons

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely (best: sit overnight).
• Set your cabin heat controls to HOT during the refill/bleed step later.
• If you need access from underneath, raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which hose you’re replacing

• The upper radiator hose connects near the top of the radiator and goes to the engine/thermostat area.
• The lower radiator hose connects near the bottom of the radiator and goes to the engine/water outlet area.
• Replace cracked/soft hoses right away.

Step 2: Remove pressure safely

• With the engine cold, place shop towels around the coolant reservoir/cap area.
• Slowly loosen the cap to the first stop to vent any leftover pressure, then remove it fully.

Step 3: Drain enough coolant

• Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator area.
• If your radiator has an accessible drain, open it carefully using a flathead screwdriver (if slotted) and drain until the level is below the hose you’re replacing.
• If there’s no easy drain access, you can drain from the lower radiator hose by loosening its clamp (next step) and letting coolant flow into the drain pan.

Step 4: Remove the splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet for bolts.
• Use a trim clip removal tool for plastic clips (this tool pops clips out without breaking them).
• Reinstall hardware later and Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs) for small shield bolts.

Step 5: Loosen the hose clamps

• If you have a spring-style clamp, squeeze it with hose clamp pliers (specialty) or slip-joint pliers, then slide it back on the hose.
• If you have a screw/worm-gear clamp, loosen it with a 7mm nut driver or 8mm nut driver (use the one that fits).
• Slide the clamp back 2–3 inches.

Step 6: Break the hose loose (don’t just yank)

• Twist the hose by hand to break the seal.
• If it’s stuck, gently work the edge with an angled pick tool to release it. (A pick tool is a small hooked tool that helps separate stuck rubber without tearing it.)
• Pull the hose off the radiator neck first, then off the engine side.

Step 7: Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces

• Use shop towels to wipe the radiator neck and engine outlet clean.
• Do not scrape aggressively—just remove crusty residue.
• Inspect the radiator neck for cracks and the engine outlet for heavy corrosion.

Step 8: Install the new hose and clamps

• Match the new hose shape to the old one before installing.
• Slide the clamps onto the hose first.
• Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out.
• Position clamps behind the raised “bead” on the fitting.
• If using screw clamps, tighten with a 7mm nut driver or 8mm nut driver until snug—do not crush the plastic radiator neck.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reinstall clips with your hands and the trim clip removal tool as needed.
• Reinstall bolts with a 10mm socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 10: Refill coolant

• Use a funnel to fill the coolant reservoir with the correct Mopar OAT compatible coolant.
• If using concentrate, mix with distilled water to a 50/50 mix unless the coolant is premixed.
• Fill to the MAX line.

Step 11: Bleed air and verify no leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Set the heater to HOT and fan on low/medium to help purge air.
• Watch the temperature gauge and check around both hose connections for leaks using a flashlight (use your phone light if needed).
• Once the engine warms up and you feel steady heat from the vents, shut the engine off and let it cool fully.
• Top off to the MAX line after it cools.
• Never let it overheat while bleeding.

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✅ After Repair

• Do a short test drive, then recheck for seepage around clamps.
• After the next full cool-down, recheck coolant level and top off if needed.
• Look under the Compass for drips the next morning.
• Dispose of old coolant properly (most parts stores accept it).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$370 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.