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2016 Subaru Impreza
2016 Subaru Impreza
Limited - Flat 4 2.0L
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2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0L Leaking Coolant.  Heater Fitting Replacement.  Top Hose

2012 Subaru Impreza 2.0L Leaking Coolant. Heater Fitting Replacement. Top Hose

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How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2016 Subaru Impreza

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks

How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2016 Subaru Impreza

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts list, coolant refill/bleeding tips, and leak checks

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Impreza - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose means draining some coolant, removing the old hose and clamps, then installing the new hose and refilling/bleeding the cooling system. A bad hose can leak or burst and quickly cause overheating, so it’s a smart preventative repair if the hose is swollen, cracked, or seeping.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can cause severe burns.
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep coolant off belts and electrical connectors; wipe spills immediately.
  • ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to pets; collect and dispose of it properly.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
  • Funnel
  • Pliers
  • Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pick tool
  • Trim clip tool
  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 3" extension
  • Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
  • Shop rags

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
  • Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
  • Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 4
  • Subaru-approved coolant (blue long-life premix) - Qty: 2 gallons

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Let the engine cool fully (upper radiator hose should feel cool, not warm).
  • Remove the engine under cover if equipped (fasteners vary; use 10mm socket and trim clip tool).
  • Take a photo of hose routing first.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve any leftover pressure safely

  • Use a shop rag over the radiator cap, then slowly loosen it only if the engine is completely cool.
  • If you hear pressure release, pause until it stops, then remove the cap.

Step 2: Raise the front (helps access the lower hose)

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front jacking point.
  • Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and keep wheel chocks in place.

Step 3: Drain enough coolant to drop the level below the hose

  • Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
  • Open the radiator drain cock (plastic drain valve) by hand; if access is tight, use pliers gently.
  • Drain until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing, then close the drain cock.
  • Torque: No published torque (plastic drain cock); tighten by hand until snug. Overtightening can crack it.

Step 4: Remove the upper radiator hose (radiator to engine)

  • Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to squeeze the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
  • Repeat for the clamp at the other end of the hose.
  • Twist the hose to break it free. If stuck, use a pick tool to gently separate the hose from the fitting. (A pick tool is a small hooked tool used to break seals without prying hard.)
  • Pull the hose off both ends and guide it out.

Step 5: Remove the lower radiator hose (radiator to engine)

  • Make sure the drain pan is positioned under the lower hose; extra coolant will spill.
  • Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move the spring clamps back from the ends.
  • Twist and remove the hose. Use the pick tool carefully if it’s bonded to the fitting.

Step 6: Prep the fittings and compare parts

  • Wipe the radiator and engine hose fittings clean with shop rags.
  • Compare the new hose(s) to the old hose(s) for length, bends, and diameter.
  • If your replacement includes new clamps, place them onto the hose now.

Step 7: Install the new hose(s) and clamps

  • Push the new hose fully onto each fitting until it bottoms out against the stop bead.
  • Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to position spring clamps in the same area as factory (behind the raised bead on the fitting).
  • Torque: No torque spec (spring clamps); verify the clamp is centered and fully seated.
  • If using screw-type clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug, then stop. Too tight can cut the hose.

Step 8: Reinstall under cover (if removed)

  • Reinstall the splash shield/under cover using a 10mm socket, 3/8" ratchet, and trim clip tool as needed.
  • Torque: No critical torque (plastic clips/10mm shield bolts); snug only.

Step 9: Refill coolant and bleed air

  • Use a funnel and refill the radiator with Subaru-approved coolant (blue long-life premix).
  • Fill the coolant reservoir to the “FULL” line.
  • Start the engine and set the HVAC to full hot, fan on low.
  • Let the engine idle and warm up; watch for bubbles and falling coolant level, and top off as needed using the funnel.
  • When the radiator fan cycles on/off and heat blows hot, install the radiator cap.

Step 10: Check for leaks

  • With the engine running, inspect both ends of each replaced hose using safety glasses and a flashlight (use your phone light if needed).
  • Shut the engine off, let it cool, then recheck the reservoir level and top off if needed.

✅ After Repair

  • Do a short test drive, then recheck for seepage around hose ends.
  • After the engine cools completely (later that day or next morning), recheck coolant level in the reservoir and top off.
  • If you notice gurgling behind the dash or temperature swings, air may still be trapped; repeat the bleed/top-off process.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.


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