🔧 K900 - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose fixes coolant leaks and prevents overheating. On your K900, the job is mostly about safe coolant handling, removing the old hose without damaging fittings, and refilling/bleeding the cooling system correctly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: Instructions cover both upper and lower radiator hoses (process is similar).

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands if you go underneath; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets—catch it in a drain pan and clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Keep hands/clothes away from the cooling fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (10-liter minimum)
• Pliers (hose clamp pliers)
• Slip-joint pliers
• Flathead screwdriver
• Pick tool (hose pick) (specialty)
• Trim clip removal tool
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Extension (3")
• Torque wrench (10–80 Nm range)
• Funnel
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
• Engine coolant (P-OAT long-life, 50/50 premix or concentrate + distilled water) - Qty: 2-6 liters
• Distilled water - Qty: 2-6 liters

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Let the engine cool fully (at least 2–3 hours; overnight is best).
• Set the HVAC to Heat: MAX and Fan: Low for bleeding later.
• Position a drain pan under the radiator area before opening anything.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)

• Open the hood and pull up to release the cover (it’s held by rubber grommets).
• Use shop rags to protect your hands from sharp edges.

Step 2: Safely relieve any residual pressure

• Place shop rags over the coolant reservoir/radiator cap area.
• Slowly loosen the cap to the first stop to vent pressure, then remove it fully.

Step 3: Raise the front (only if needed for lower hose access)

• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front jack point.
• Set the car onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).

Step 4: Remove the lower splash shield (if it blocks access)

• Use a trim clip removal tool to pop plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8" drive), and extension (3") to remove bolts.
• Reinstall torque: Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).

Step 5: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level

• Place the drain pan (10-liter minimum) under the radiator drain area.
• Open the drain carefully (if equipped) and drain until the coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing.
• If there is no drain or it’s hard to reach, you can drain by loosening the lower hose clamp slowly (expect a mess—use shop rags).

Step 6: Remove the upper radiator hose (if replacing)

• Use pliers (hose clamp pliers) to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
• Twist the hose gently by hand to break it free from the fitting.
• If it’s stuck, use a pick tool (hose pick) (specialty) to gently separate the hose from the neck (a hose pick is a small hooked tool that helps release stuck rubber without tearing it).
• Pull the hose off and aim it into the drain pan (10-liter minimum) to catch remaining coolant.

Step 7: Remove the lower radiator hose (if replacing)

• From above or below (whichever gives access), use pliers (hose clamp pliers) to move the clamp back.
• Use slip-joint pliers to help rotate the hose gently if your hands can’t get a good grip.
• Use the pick tool (hose pick) (specialty) only at the hose edge—do not gouge the radiator neck.
• Pull the hose off and drain into the drain pan (10-liter minimum).

Step 8: Inspect the fittings and prep for installation

• Wipe the radiator and engine hose necks clean using shop rags.
• Make sure no old rubber is stuck on the necks; remove residue carefully with a pick tool (hose pick) (specialty).
• Tip: A clean neck prevents future leaks.

Step 9: Install the new hose(s) and clamps

• Slide the new clamp onto the hose before installing the hose.
• Push the hose fully onto the fitting until it bottoms out (you should feel it “seat”).
• Position the clamp behind the raised bead on the fitting using pliers (hose clamp pliers).
• If using worm-gear clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug (do not crush the hose).

Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

• Reinstall bolts with a 10mm socket and ratchet (3/8" drive).
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs) using a torque wrench (10–80 Nm range).
• Reinstall clips using a trim clip removal tool (press to lock).

Step 11: Refill coolant

• Insert a funnel and refill with engine coolant (P-OAT long-life, 50/50 premix or concentrate + distilled water).
• If using concentrate, mix with distilled water to a 50/50 blend before filling.
• Fill to the reservoir “FULL” line (or radiator neck if your system fills there).

Step 12: Bleed air from the cooling system

• Start the engine and let it idle with the cap off.
• Turn the heater to hot (you already set this) and keep the fan low.
• As it warms up, watch for bubbles and add coolant as the level drops using the funnel.
• Carefully squeeze the upper hose a few times (use nitrile gloves) to help push trapped air out.
• Once the radiator fan cycles on/off and the heater blows hot, reinstall the cap.
• Tip: Don’t rev a cold engine hard.

Step 13: Check for leaks

• With the engine idling, inspect both hose ends using safety glasses and a shop rag.
• Shut off the engine and recheck clamp placement.

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✅ After Repair

• Let the engine cool completely, then recheck the coolant level and top off as needed.
• Test drive 10–15 minutes, then park and inspect for any fresh coolant smell or wetness.
• Recheck again the next morning (cold engine) and top off to the “FULL” mark.
• Dispose of old coolant properly (sealed container; take to a recycling/collection center).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹6,000-₹15,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹1,500-₹6,500 (parts only)

You Save: ₹4,500-₹8,500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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