How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2016 Chevrolet Suburban
Step-by-step hose removal and install with tools list, parts, Dex-Cool refill, bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2016 Chevrolet Suburban
Step-by-step hose removal and install with tools list, parts, Dex-Cool refill, bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Suburban - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. On your Suburban, you’ll typically replace the upper hose (radiator to engine) and/or the lower hose (radiator to water pump). Expect some coolant loss, so you’ll drain and refill the cooling system.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant off the ground; it’s toxic and slippery.
- ⚠️ Keep hands/tools clear of the fan area when running the engine for bleeding.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Funnel
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 6" extension (1/4" drive)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Pick tool (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers
- Trim clip remover (specialty)
- Shop towels
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamp set - Qty: 1
- Dex-Cool coolant (pre-mixed 50/50) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (best: sit overnight).
- Set the HVAC to heat later during bleeding (this helps purge air from the heater core).
- Take a photo of hose routing first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise the front (if needed for access)
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at a safe jacking point.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame and lower onto them.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)
- Use a trim clip remover (specialty) to pop plastic retainers (a retainer is a plastic clip that holds panels on).
- Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to remove any small bolts.
- Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small pile.
Step 3: Relieve coolant pressure safely
- With the engine fully cool, slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap using your hand and a shop towel.
- If you hear any hiss, stop and wait until it’s fully released, then remove the cap.
Step 4: Drain enough coolant to get below the hose level
- Position a drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator drain area.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver only if needed to gently open the radiator drain (many open by hand).
- Drain until coolant level is below the hose you’re replacing, then close the drain.
- Save clean coolant only if it’s fresh.
Step 5: Remove the engine cover (if equipped)
- Pull up firmly by hand to release the cover from the rubber mounts.
- Set it aside.
Step 6: Remove the air intake ducting (for room, if it blocks access)
- Use an 8mm socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet to loosen intake clamps.
- Lift the duct out gently and set it aside.
Step 7: Remove the upper radiator hose (if replacing upper)
- Place a drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the hose connection area to catch spills.
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to compress spring clamps, then slide the clamp back on the hose.
- If you have screw-type clamps, use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen them.
- Use a pick tool (specialty) to gently break the hose seal at the fitting (don’t gouge the plastic/metal nipple).
- Twist and pull the hose off. Use slip-joint pliers carefully only if it’s stuck.
Step 8: Remove the lower radiator hose (if replacing lower)
- Move the drain pan (at least 3-gallon) directly under the lower hose; this one usually spills more.
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to move the clamp back.
- Use the pick tool (specialty) to break the seal, then twist and pull the hose off.
- Wipe the radiator and water pump fittings clean using shop towels.
Step 9: Install the new hose(s) and clamps
- Compare old vs new hose shape before installing (same bends, same length).
- Slide new clamps onto the hose first.
- Push the hose fully onto the fitting until it seats against the stop/bead.
- Reposition the clamp to the same area as the factory clamp (usually just behind the raised bead).
- Use hose clamp pliers (specialty) to release spring clamps into position.
- If using screw-type clamps, tighten with a flat-blade screwdriver until snug. Torque: No OEM torque spec for most hose clamps; tighten snug and do not crush the hose.
- A clamp over the bead can leak.
Step 10: Reinstall removed components
- Reinstall the air intake duct using the 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet to snug clamps.
- Reinstall the engine cover by pressing down firmly by hand.
- Reinstall the splash shield using the trim clip remover (specialty) and 10mm socket.
Step 11: Refill coolant
- Insert a funnel into the coolant reservoir and fill with Dex-Cool coolant (pre-mixed 50/50) to the correct mark.
- Reinstall the reservoir cap hand-tight.
Step 12: Bleed air and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle. Keep your flashlight handy for leak checks.
- Set HVAC to max heat and medium fan.
- As the engine warms up, watch the temperature gauge and inspect hose connections for seepage.
- After the thermostat opens (upper hose gets hot), shut the engine off and let it cool.
- Once cool, remove the cap and top off coolant with the funnel as needed.
✅ After Repair
- Test drive 10-15 minutes, then recheck for leaks with a flashlight.
- After the next full cool-down, recheck coolant level and top off if needed.
- If you ever see a warning, overheating, or repeated coolant loss, stop driving and recheck clamp position and hose seating.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















