How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Engine: V6 3.3L)
Step-by-step coolant drain/refill and air-bleeding guide with tools, parts list, clamp tips, and safety checks
How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Engine: V6 3.3L)
Step-by-step coolant drain/refill and air-bleeding guide with tools, parts list, clamp tips, and safety checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Santa Fe - Radiator Hose Replacement
Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. On your Santa Fe, you may have an upper hose (radiator to engine) and a lower hose (radiator to engine/water pump area); the steps below cover both.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the Santa Fe on jack stands before going underneath; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; catch it in a drain pan and clean spills immediately.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the radiator fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but keep tools away from the battery positive terminal.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- Funnel
- Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
- Slip-joint pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pick tool (small hook) (specialty)
- 10mm socket
- 3/8" ratchet
- 3" extension
- Trim clip removal tool
- Shop towels
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
- Hyundai/Kia long-life coolant (P-OAT) premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
- Let the engine cool fully (best: sit overnight). Squeeze the upper hose; it should feel cool, not pressurized.
- Set HVAC to heat (full hot) later during bleeding; this helps move coolant through the heater core.
- If doing the lower hose, raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the radiator cap (only when cold)
- Place shop towels around the cap area.
- Slowly loosen the cap to the first stop to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully by hand.
Step 2: Drain coolant into a pan
- Position a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
- If the lower splash shield blocks access, remove it using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- Reinstalling splash shield bolts later: Torque to 8-10 Nm (6-7 ft-lbs).
- Open the radiator drain (petcock) by hand or with a flathead screwdriver if needed, and let coolant drain.
- Tip: save coolant only if it’s clean/new.
Step 3: Remove the old radiator hose (upper or lower)
- Locate the hose you’re replacing and follow it end-to-end.
- Move the clamp back from the connection using hose clamp pliers (specialty) (these hold spring clamps open for you).
- If your Santa Fe has screw-style clamps, loosen them with a flathead screwdriver.
- Twist the hose to break it loose. Use slip-joint pliers gently on the hose end if needed.
- If it’s stuck, slide a pick tool (small hook) (specialty) under the hose lip to break the seal, then pull the hose off.
- Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan.
Step 4: Prep the fittings
- Wipe the radiator/engine necks clean with shop towels.
- Make sure the sealing surfaces are smooth and free of old rubber or corrosion.
Step 5: Install the new hose and clamps
- Compare the new hose to the old one (length, bends, end size). Use the correct hose for upper vs lower.
- Slide the clamp(s) onto the hose first.
- Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it seats against the stop/bead.
- Reposition spring clamps using hose clamp pliers (specialty) so they sit behind the bead (not on the very edge).
- If using screw-style clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug; do not crush the plastic radiator neck.
- Tip: clamp should sit straight, not tilted.
Step 6: Reinstall splash shield (if removed)
- Reinstall the shield using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
- Torque to 8-10 Nm (6-7 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Refill coolant
- Close the radiator drain (petcock) by hand (snug only).
- Using a funnel, refill with Hyundai/Kia long-life coolant (P-OAT) premix to the proper level.
- Fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line.
Step 8: Bleed air from the cooling system
- Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off.
- Set HVAC to full HOT and medium fan.
- Watch coolant level; add as it drops using the funnel.
- As the engine warms up, gently squeeze the upper radiator hose (with gloves) to help burp air.
- When the radiator fan cycles and you see steady flow/no big bubbles, install the radiator cap by hand.
Step 9: Final leak check
- With the engine running, inspect both ends of the replaced hose with safety glasses on.
- Look for seepage around the clamps and connections. Reposition/tighten if needed using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or flathead screwdriver.
✅ After Repair
- Take a 10-15 minute drive while watching the temperature gauge (it should stay normal).
- After the engine cools completely, recheck the reservoir level and top off as needed.
- Inspect for dried coolant residue around the hose ends over the next 1-2 days.
- Dispose of old coolant properly; never pour it onto the ground.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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