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2016 Hyundai Santa Fe
2013 - 2018 Hyundai Santa Fe
V6 3.3L
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  • Guides
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  • Hyundai Santa Fe
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  • 2016
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  • How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Engine: V6 3.3L)
2017 Santa Fe sport How to Replace thermostat, Oil Cooler, and Upper Radiator Hose

2017 Santa Fe sport How to Replace thermostat, Oil Cooler, and Upper Radiator Hose

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Tools & Fluids

Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Engine: V6 3.3L)

Step-by-step coolant drain/refill and air-bleeding guide with tools, parts list, clamp tips, and safety checks

How to Replace the Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses on a 2013-2018 Hyundai Santa Fe (Engine: V6 3.3L)

Step-by-step coolant drain/refill and air-bleeding guide with tools, parts list, clamp tips, and safety checks for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018

Orion
Orion

🔧 Santa Fe - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. On your Santa Fe, you may have an upper hose (radiator to engine) and a lower hose (radiator to engine/water pump area); the steps below cover both.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap on a hot engine; hot coolant can spray and burn you.
  • ⚠️ Support the Santa Fe on jack stands before going underneath; never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Coolant is toxic to people and pets; catch it in a drain pan and clean spills immediately.
  • ⚠️ Keep hands clear of the radiator fan; it can turn on unexpectedly.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but keep tools away from the battery positive terminal.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
  • Funnel
  • Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
  • Slip-joint pliers
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pick tool (small hook) (specialty)
  • 10mm socket
  • 3/8" ratchet
  • 3" extension
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
  • Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
  • Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2-4
  • Hyundai/Kia long-life coolant (P-OAT) premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
  • Let the engine cool fully (best: sit overnight). Squeeze the upper hose; it should feel cool, not pressurized.
  • Set HVAC to heat (full hot) later during bleeding; this helps move coolant through the heater core.
  • If doing the lower hose, raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the radiator cap (only when cold)

  • Place shop towels around the cap area.
  • Slowly loosen the cap to the first stop to release any leftover pressure, then remove it fully by hand.

Step 2: Drain coolant into a pan

  • Position a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the radiator drain area.
  • If the lower splash shield blocks access, remove it using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
  • Reinstalling splash shield bolts later: Torque to 8-10 Nm (6-7 ft-lbs).
  • Open the radiator drain (petcock) by hand or with a flathead screwdriver if needed, and let coolant drain.
  • Tip: save coolant only if it’s clean/new.

Step 3: Remove the old radiator hose (upper or lower)

  • Locate the hose you’re replacing and follow it end-to-end.
  • Move the clamp back from the connection using hose clamp pliers (specialty) (these hold spring clamps open for you).
  • If your Santa Fe has screw-style clamps, loosen them with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Twist the hose to break it loose. Use slip-joint pliers gently on the hose end if needed.
  • If it’s stuck, slide a pick tool (small hook) (specialty) under the hose lip to break the seal, then pull the hose off.
  • Catch any remaining coolant with the drain pan.

Step 4: Prep the fittings

  • Wipe the radiator/engine necks clean with shop towels.
  • Make sure the sealing surfaces are smooth and free of old rubber or corrosion.

Step 5: Install the new hose and clamps

  • Compare the new hose to the old one (length, bends, end size). Use the correct hose for upper vs lower.
  • Slide the clamp(s) onto the hose first.
  • Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it seats against the stop/bead.
  • Reposition spring clamps using hose clamp pliers (specialty) so they sit behind the bead (not on the very edge).
  • If using screw-style clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver until snug; do not crush the plastic radiator neck.
  • Tip: clamp should sit straight, not tilted.

Step 6: Reinstall splash shield (if removed)

  • Reinstall the shield using a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
  • Torque to 8-10 Nm (6-7 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Refill coolant

  • Close the radiator drain (petcock) by hand (snug only).
  • Using a funnel, refill with Hyundai/Kia long-life coolant (P-OAT) premix to the proper level.
  • Fill the coolant reservoir to the MAX line.

Step 8: Bleed air from the cooling system

  • Start the engine and let it idle with the radiator cap off.
  • Set HVAC to full HOT and medium fan.
  • Watch coolant level; add as it drops using the funnel.
  • As the engine warms up, gently squeeze the upper radiator hose (with gloves) to help burp air.
  • When the radiator fan cycles and you see steady flow/no big bubbles, install the radiator cap by hand.

Step 9: Final leak check

  • With the engine running, inspect both ends of the replaced hose with safety glasses on.
  • Look for seepage around the clamps and connections. Reposition/tighten if needed using hose clamp pliers (specialty) or flathead screwdriver.

✅ After Repair

  • Take a 10-15 minute drive while watching the temperature gauge (it should stay normal).
  • After the engine cools completely, recheck the reservoir level and top off as needed.
  • Inspect for dried coolant residue around the hose ends over the next 1-2 days.
  • Dispose of old coolant properly; never pour it onto the ground.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $210-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.


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