🔧 Savana - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose stops coolant leaks and prevents overheating. You’ll remove the old hose, clean the fittings, install the new hose, then refill and bleed the cooling system.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

Assumption: replacing the upper radiator hose; lower-hose notes included.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant cap hot; wait until fully cool.
• ⚠️ Coolant is toxic; keep away from kids/pets and clean spills.
• ⚠️ Support the van with jack stands before working underneath (lower hose access).
• ⚠️ Keep hands/tools away from the fan and belt area.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
• Shop rags
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• 1/4" drive ratchet
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Hose clamp pliers (specialty)
• Pick tool
• Funnel
• Torque wrench (inch-pound or low-range Nm)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1 (if replacing lower)
• Hose clamps - Qty: 2 (replace in pairs)
• Coolant (DEX-COOL compatible) 50/50 premix - Qty: 2-4 gallons (as needed)
• Distilled water - Qty: 1-2 gallons (only if using concentrate coolant)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
• Let the engine cool completely (upper hose should feel cool and soft).
• Place a drain pan under the radiator area.
• If you’ll replace the lower hose, raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Relieve cooling system pressure (cold engine only)

• Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand, using a shop rag as a shield.
• If you hear pressure, pause until it stops, then remove the cap fully.

Step 2: Drain enough coolant to get below hose level

• Position the drain pan (at least 3-gallon) under the radiator lower area.
• If equipped with a drain valve, open it carefully using a flat-blade screwdriver (some are hand-turn style).
• If there’s no usable drain valve, you can drain by loosening the lower hose clamp later (expect more spill).
• Drain about 1-2 gallons, then close the drain valve snugly. Torque to 2 Nm (18 in-lbs) if a screw-type drain is used.

Step 3: Remove engine cover/air ducting if it blocks access (as needed)

• Remove any plastic cover(s) using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.
• Loosen any intake duct clamps in the way using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet.

Step 4: Remove the upper radiator hose

• At the radiator end, release the clamp using hose clamp pliers (specialty) (these lock onto spring clamps so you can squeeze and hold them open).
• Slide the clamp back on the hose about 2-3 inches.
• Twist the hose to break it free, then pull it off by hand; use a pick tool gently at the edge if it’s stuck. Don’t gouge the radiator neck.
• Repeat at the engine-side fitting using hose clamp pliers (specialty).

Step 5: (If replacing) Remove the lower radiator hose

• Make sure the van is supported on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Release the clamps with hose clamp pliers (specialty) and slide them back.
• Pull the hose off the radiator first, then off the engine/water pump side; keep the drain pan in place because more coolant will spill.

Step 6: Clean and inspect the hose connections

• Wipe the radiator neck and engine fitting using shop rags.
• Remove stuck rubber bits carefully with a pick tool.
• Inspect for cracks, heavy pitting, or a broken radiator neck; stop if damaged.

Step 7: Install the new hose(s) and clamps

• Slide the new clamp(s) onto the new hose before installing, by hand.
• Push the hose fully onto the fitting until it bottoms out.
• Position the clamp behind the raised bead on the fitting using hose clamp pliers (specialty).
• If using screw (worm-gear) clamps, tighten with a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket: Torque to 3.5 Nm (31 in-lbs).
• If using spring clamps, ensure they sit square and centered using hose clamp pliers (specialty).

Step 8: Reinstall any removed covers/ducting

• Reinstall intake ducting using an 8mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet: Torque to 4 Nm (35 in-lbs).
• Reinstall engine cover fasteners using a 10mm socket and 1/4" drive ratchet: Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).

Step 9: Refill coolant and bleed air

• Insert a funnel into the coolant reservoir and add DEX-COOL compatible 50/50 premix until it reaches the “FULL COLD” line.
• If your A/C has a “MAX” setting, set HVAC to HOT and fan to LOW after startup (this helps purge air through the heater core).
• If a bleed screw is present near the thermostat/water outlet, open it with a flat-blade screwdriver just until air/coolant vents, then close it: Torque to 2 Nm (18 in-lbs).

Step 10: Warm up and top off

• Start the engine and let it idle; watch for leaks with safety glasses on.
• As it warms up, squeeze the upper hose gently by hand (careful—gets hot) to help burp air.
• When the thermostat opens (hose gets hot and firm), shut the engine off and let it cool 15-30 minutes.
• Recheck level and top off to “FULL COLD” using the funnel.

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✅ After Repair

• Check for leaks at both ends of the hose with the engine idling and again after a short test drive.
• Verify the temperature gauge stays normal and the heater blows hot.
• Recheck coolant level the next morning (cold) and top off if needed.
• Dispose of old coolant properly (hazardous waste facility).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$550 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $115-$515 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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