Assumption: Your ProMaster’s 3.6L uses a timing chain (not a timing belt). Steps below cover timing chain replacement on the 3.6L Pentastar.

🔧 ProMaster - Timing Chain Replacement

Your ProMaster’s 3.6L engine does not have a timing belt—its camshafts are driven by a timing chain system (chains, guides, and hydraulic tensioners). Replacing the chains is a major front-engine disassembly job; it’s usually done for chain noise, guide failure, or major oil/coolant contamination issues.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 10-16 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before draining coolant.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental cranking.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount (use an engine support bar or a jack with a wood block).
• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the engine.
• ⚠️ Do not rotate the crank/cams with the chain removed; valve timing can be lost.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
• Torque angle gauge
• Socket set (8mm-21mm)
• Deep socket set (13mm-21mm)
• Torx bit set (T20-T50)
• E-Torx socket set (E10-E14)
• Serpentine belt tool (3/8" drive)
• Harmonic balancer puller kit
• Plastic trim clip removal tool
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Flat plastic gasket scraper
• Drain pan (at least 10 quarts)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Camshaft holding/locking tool set (specialty)
• Crankshaft TDC locking pin/tool (specialty)
• Engine support bar (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain kit (primary chain, secondary chains, guides, tensioners) - Qty: 1
• Front timing cover seal/gasket set - Qty: 1
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft damper bolt (single-use) - Qty: 1
• RTV silicone sealant (OEM-spec) - Qty: 1
• Engine coolant (HOAT/OAT compatible for your ProMaster) - Qty: 2-3 gallons (mixed as required)
• Engine oil (5W-20) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 (recommended)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Raise the front and support with jack stands under proper lift points.
• Disconnect the negative battery terminal using a 10mm socket.
• Plan to drain coolant and likely change oil (coolant/oil contamination is common during this job).
• TDC means “top dead center” of cylinder #1.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove underbody access and prep for draining

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) to safely support the front.
• Remove the lower splash shield using a socket set (8mm-21mm) and plastic trim clip removal tool.
• Place a drain pan (at least 10 quarts) under the radiator area.

Step 2: Drain coolant

• Open the coolant reservoir cap to release pressure.
• Drain coolant into the drain pan (at least 10 quarts) (method varies by radiator; use socket set (8mm-21mm) as needed for shields/access).
• Use shop rags to control spills.

Step 3: Remove intake ducting and front-of-engine accessories

• Remove intake ducting as needed using a socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Relieve belt tension using a serpentine belt tool (3/8" drive) and remove the belt.
• Remove obstructing accessory brackets/fasteners with a socket set (8mm-21mm) and E-Torx socket set (E10-E14).

Step 4: Support the engine and remove the mount (as required for access)

• Support the engine using an engine support bar (specialty). (This tool holds the engine from above so mounts can be removed safely.)
• Remove the mount/bracket hardware using a socket set (8mm-21mm) and torx bit set (T20-T50) as equipped.
• Use a pry bar (12"-18") only if needed, gently.

Step 5: Remove the crankshaft damper (harmonic balancer)

• Remove the crank bolt using a 1/2" drive breaker bar and socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Use a harmonic balancer puller kit to pull the damper straight off.
• Keep the puller centered to avoid damage.

Step 6: Remove the front timing cover

• Remove timing cover fasteners using a socket set (8mm-21mm) and E-Torx socket set (E10-E14).
• Carefully separate the cover using a pry bar (12"-18") in designated pry points only.
• Clean all mating surfaces with a flat plastic gasket scraper and shop rags.

Step 7: Set cylinder #1 to TDC and lock timing

• Rotate the engine by hand using a socket set (8mm-21mm) on the crank until timing marks align at TDC.
• Install the crankshaft TDC locking pin/tool (specialty) to prevent the crank from moving.
• Install the camshaft holding/locking tool set (specialty) to keep cams from snapping out of position.

Step 8: Remove timing chain tensioners, guides, and chains

• Remove the hydraulic tensioners using a socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Remove guides using a socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Remove the primary and secondary chains carefully and keep note of routing.

Step 9: Install new chains and align timing marks

• Install new guides using a socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Route the new chains exactly like the originals.
• Align the colored chain links with the sprocket marks (crank and cam phasers) per the kit instructions.
• Install new tensioners using a socket set (8mm-21mm), then release/activate them per design.

Step 10: Torque critical fasteners

• Tighten timing cover bolts using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs): Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
• Tighten water pump bolts (if removed) using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs): Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
• Install the crank damper and NEW crank bolt using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) and torque angle gauge: Torque to 250 Nm (184 ft-lbs) + 90°.
• If any spec differs, follow OEM spec.

Step 11: Reseal and reinstall the front cover

• Apply RTV silicone sealant (OEM-spec) at the required seams (especially where the timing cover meets other housings) before installation.
• Install a new front crankshaft seal (usually pressed into the cover) using appropriate gentle pressure and alignment.
• Reinstall the timing cover and hand-start all bolts to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten in an even pattern using a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs): Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Reassemble accessories, belt, and mounts

• Reinstall brackets/accessories using a socket set (8mm-21mm) and E-Torx socket set (E10-E14).
• Reinstall the engine mount/bracket using a socket set (8mm-21mm) and tighten with a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to OEM specs for the mount hardware.
• Install the serpentine belt using a serpentine belt tool (3/8" drive).
• Reinstall the splash shield using a socket set (8mm-21mm) and plastic trim clip removal tool.

Step 13: Refill fluids

• Refill coolant using a funnel with the correct engine coolant.
• Change engine oil and filter using a socket set (8mm-21mm), then refill with engine oil (5W-20).
• Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and listen for abnormal rattles. A brief noise for 1-2 seconds can happen as tensioners fill with oil.
• Check for oil leaks around the timing cover and crank seal.
• Verify coolant level after the engine warms up, then top off as needed.
• Test drive gently, then recheck for leaks and fluid levels.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,800-$3,500 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$900 (parts only)

You Save: $900-$2,600 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 10-16 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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