🔧 Regal - Timing Chain Replacement

Your Regal does not use a timing belt; it uses a timing chain. A chain is lubricated by engine oil and typically lasts much longer, but it can still stretch or the guides/tensioner can wear, causing rattles, check-engine lights, or poor running.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 6-10 hours

Assumption: Steps below are best-fit for the common GM 2.0L turbo timing-chain layout used in your Regal; torque values can vary by fastener—use a factory service source if anything differs during disassembly.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cold engine; hot coolant and turbo parts burn.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental cranking.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any engine mount.
• ⚠️ Do not rotate the crank/cams with the chain removed; valves can hit pistons.
• ⚠️ Keep RTV sealant out of oil passages; small blobs can cause oil starvation.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Fender cover
• Metric socket set 8mm-21mm
• Metric wrench set 8mm-21mm
• Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)
• Torque angle gauge (specialty)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torx bit set E10-E14
• Torx bit set T20-T50
• Trim clip remover
• Serpentine belt tool 3/8-inch
• Harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty)
• Crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty)
• Camshaft locking tool set (specialty)
• Razor scraper
• Plastic gasket scraper
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Timing chain - Qty: 1
• Timing chain guides - Qty: 1 set
• Timing chain tensioner - Qty: 1
• Timing cover gasket set - Qty: 1
• Front crankshaft seal - Qty: 1
• Valve cover gasket - Qty: 1
• Crankshaft balancer bolt - Qty: 1
• RTV silicone sealant (engine timing cover spec) - Qty: 1
• Engine oil (dexos synthetic, correct viscosity for your Regal) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Coolant (DEX-COOL compatible, premix or concentrate) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
• Serpentine belt - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front safely with a floor jack and support with jack stands.
• Remove the right-front wheel using a 19mm socket and remove the splash shield using a trim clip remover.
• Uncommon tool note: A camshaft locking tool holds the cams in place so timing can’t slip.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Drain coolant and prep access

• Place a drain pan under the radiator drain and open it (use pliers if needed).
• Remove the engine top cover and intake ducting using a flat trim tool and 8mm socket.
• Remove the right-front inner fender liner fasteners using a trim clip remover and 7mm socket.

Step 2: Support the engine and remove the right engine mount

• Support the engine from below with a floor jack and a block of wood under the oil pan.
• Remove the mount bolts using an E14 Torx socket and ratchet.
• Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) for mount-to-body bolts on installation.
• Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) for mount-to-engine bracket bolts on installation.

Step 3: Remove serpentine belt and crank pulley

• Release belt tension using a serpentine belt tool 3/8-inch, then remove the belt.
• Remove the crank pulley (harmonic balancer) bolt using a breaker bar and crankshaft pulley holding tool (specialty).
• Pull the pulley off using a harmonic balancer puller kit (specialty).
• Install new crank bolt during reassembly: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs) + 150° using a torque angle gauge.
• Tip: Mark belt routing before removal.

Step 4: Remove valve cover and set cylinder #1 to TDC

• Disconnect ignition coil connectors and remove coils using a 10mm socket.
• Remove the valve cover bolts using a Torx T30 bit and lift the cover off.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for valve cover bolts during installation.
• Rotate the engine clockwise using a socket on the crankshaft until timing marks align at TDC (top dead center).
• Definition: TDC is when piston #1 is at the top of its travel.

Step 5: Lock cams and remove the front timing cover

• Install the camshaft locking tool set (specialty) to hold cam timing.
• Remove front cover bolts using an E10/E12 Torx socket and ratchet.
• Carefully separate the cover using a plastic gasket scraper; do not gouge aluminum.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for small timing cover bolts during installation.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for larger timing cover bolts during installation.

Step 6: Remove the timing chain, guides, and tensioner

• Relieve the tensioner (follow your new tensioner’s pin/lock method) using a small pick from your trim tool set.
• Remove the tensioner bolts using a 10mm socket, then remove the tensioner.
• Remove the chain guides using a 10mm socket.
• Slip the chain off the cam phasers and crank sprocket, keeping everything supported by hand.

Step 7: Install new chain, guides, and tensioner (verify timing marks)

• Install the new chain, aligning the colored links (if provided) with the timing marks on the cam phasers and crank sprocket.
• Install new guides using a 10mm socket.
• Install the new tensioner using a 10mm socket, then release the lock pin so it applies tension.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for timing chain tensioner bolts.
• Rotate the engine by hand two full turns clockwise using a ratchet and re-check alignment at TDC.
• Tip: If it binds, stop—timing is wrong.

Step 8: Reinstall timing cover with correct sealing

• Clean all mating surfaces using a razor scraper, brake cleaner spray, and shop towels.
• Install a new front crankshaft seal into the cover (press in evenly by hand; tap gently with a suitable driver).
• Apply RTV silicone sealant as a thin bead at the cover joints (especially where cover meets oil pan seams).
• Install the cover and hand-start bolts, then tighten evenly using an E10/E12 Torx socket.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) for small timing cover bolts.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for larger timing cover bolts.

Step 9: Reassemble everything removed

• Reinstall the valve cover using a Torx T30 bit: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Reinstall ignition coils using a 10mm socket: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
• Reinstall crank pulley (balancer) and new bolt using socket, torque wrench, and torque angle gauge: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs) + 150°.
• Install the serpentine belt using the serpentine belt tool 3/8-inch.
• Reinstall the engine mount using an E14 Torx socket: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs) and Torque to 75 Nm (55 ft-lbs) as applicable.
• Reinstall splash shield and wheel using a 19mm socket: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) for wheel lug nuts.

Step 10: Refill fluids

• Refill coolant using a funnel and the correct DEX-COOL compatible coolant.
• Change the oil and filter (recommended after timing cover removal) using a socket set and drain pan.
• Reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for abnormal chain rattle.
• Check carefully for oil leaks at the timing cover and valve cover seams.
• Check for coolant leaks and verify the coolant level again after a full warm-up/cool-down cycle.
• If the check-engine light was on, clear codes with a scan tool and verify none return.
• Tip: Recheck fluid levels the next day.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,500-$2,800 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $300-$650 (parts only)

You Save: $1,200-$2,150 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 6-10 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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